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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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02-21-2012, 09:02 PM
#5912
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone have RC rear leafs? When you put them on, did your stock plate that sits on top of the leaf not lay flush with the leafs? The nut/bolt combo that holds the leafs together doesn't go through the top plate. Do I need to drill that center hole out or just set it on top of the nut?
Last edited by zimdogg; 02-21-2012 at 09:06 PM.
02-21-2012, 09:08 PM
#5913
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
When I put my rc's on they say perfect. I think they were the only part of my lift kit that I never replaced before I sold my xj. Didn't have to drill anything
02-21-2012, 09:19 PM
#5914
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You referring to the same part that I am? I'm talking about the piece that goes on top of the leaf springs that the u-bolts attach to. That center bolt that holds the leaf springs together does not come all the way through the center hole on my stock top plates (due to the nut on that bolt holding the leafs together), so there's a little space between the leafs and the top plate. I haven't tightened them down yet, I'm wondering if I have to drill through them so they lay flush on the leaf pack.
02-21-2012, 11:36 PM
#5918
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter High Output
Anyone have RC rear leafs? When you put them on, did your stock plate that sits on top of the leaf not lay flush with the leafs? The nut/bolt combo that holds the leafs together doesn't go through the top plate. Do I need to drill that center hole out or just set it on top of the nut?
02-22-2012, 12:57 AM
#5919
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Originally Posted by zimdogg
Anyone have RC rear leafs? When you put them on, did your stock plate that sits on top of the leaf not lay flush with the leafs? The nut/bolt combo that holds the leafs together doesn't go through the top plate. Do I need to drill that center hole out or just set it on top of the nut?
02-22-2012, 06:16 AM
#5920
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l, K&N Cold Air Intake, Banks Headers
lol all that to ask that question? The visual height depends on the lift/tire size combination, but as far as the lift amount goes...
measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail. Subtract the stock measurement to find out your actual lift.
Stock Front = 6.75"
Stock Rear = 6"
measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail. Subtract the stock measurement to find out your actual lift.
Stock Front = 6.75"
Stock Rear = 6"
Thanks- thats what I was looking for.
(and I was only following the rules 
02-22-2012, 06:23 AM
#5921
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l, K&N Cold Air Intake, Banks Headers
I'm still running stock gears with my 32"s and I'm gonna get 33"s soon- the gearing CAN handle the tire size, but you loose power and speed. If you do change- 4.56 seems to be the one to goto for 33"s.
02-22-2012, 06:34 AM
#5922
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I currently have 3.5 inches of lift. Thats true lift- I had 17 inches from fender to center of wheel before the lift and now its at 20.5 inches. If i add a 1.5 inch shackle in the rear and 1.5 inch coil spring spacer in the front, would i get by without doing a SYE and brake line extensions?
02-22-2012, 06:36 AM
#5923
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l i6
I'm putting a 4.5" lift with 33's... I have to replace the front axle and was wondering if I should get a certain kind of axle (for both front and back), such as Dana 44s or whatever. It would also be nice if the gear ratio was already set to what I need to run 33's. Any ideas on which axle to get for a pretty simple swap? And its a 99 Cherokee sport automatic btw thanks!
02-22-2012, 08:48 AM
#5924
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I currently have 3.5 inches of lift. Thats true lift- I had 17 inches from fender to center of wheel before the lift and now its at 20.5 inches. If i add a 1.5 inch shackle in the rear and 1.5 inch coil spring spacer in the front, would i get by without doing a SYE and brake line extensions?
Brake line extensions are incredibly easy and cheap. Not to mention you'll get improved braking with SS lines. Don't be scared of the brakes, even bleeding them isn't hard if you have a helper.
As for the shackles, do it, drive it, see if you need SYE.
02-22-2012, 08:49 AM
#5925
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks guys