99superjeep01

I just had the same problem. I backed em out as far as they would go cause the sleeve was starting to push out then used a cutting wheel on the head of the bolt and on the inside as close as I could get it to the leaf. That way I could grab what's left of the bolt to turn it. Used a torch to heat it up and backed it right out. But be careful as the gas tank is right there. I pulled mine out, it gave me alot more room to work.

bhennessee1

I got mine out finally, I just cut the eyes off the leafs and cut the bushings and stuff then I spread the little metal sleeve and backed the bolt out. I know it is a lot of trouble just to save a 4 dollar bolt, but I had to have it done so I couldn't wait til today to get new bolts.

Murph70

I am planning on buying another XJ soon. I want to do it right the first time - unlike the way I did it with my current jeep... I want to run 33" tires and am in a jeep club where we run all kinds of terrain (rocks, mud, snow, etc.) I am trying to decide on how much lift. As of now, I am planning on doing a 5.5" long arm lift from Serious Offroad. I'm just wondering if that is more lift than I need... What do you all think?

LeRoy90laredo

I think that will be just enough but I also know of someone that has 33's and 6.5" of lift and rubs at full flex. But you should be fine with that.

TrollHammer

I just want to recheck my logic for a moment...

I installed rusty's 3" HD springs front, and an s10 bastard pack rear.

Measured lift in the front over 200k stock coils: 3.5"

Body lines sit level front to back, assuming 3.5" lift rear as well (measured 5.5, but assuming old leaves were sagging).

Vehicle will be off road trail run only.

I have pretty much heard concensus that anything over 3" lift requires an SYE.

According to the Junkyard thread, a manual trans crossmember will drop the transfer case 3/4" from an auto.

--Would this in essence put my effective lift seen by the driveline at 2.75", and therefore not need a SYE?

--Can I effectively weld additional bracing to the stock manual crossmember, or would I be wasting my time? If I can get by free (I consider bar stock and plate and some labor "free") it would be for the best.

I would prefer to not spend too much money on this at this time, as I'm going to a 8.8 later and would rather do SYE and new driveline for that axle.

I am also considering putting the front axle CV in place of the TC side of the rear drive line, as I have two extras floating around. Depends if it will fit and if there is enough room for it (length wise).

White Elephant

Thanks, best info on this i've got on this.

what would you suggest as the best between the two if I want to still have a daily driver but do some sweet wheeling at least once or twice a month??

BNJeepsta

Any of you guys put on new lifted leaf springs with the stock shackle and have it be so bouncy its like a pogo stick?

XDeadmeatX

I'm getting ready to buy my lift components. I'm thinking about getting rocky road outfitters 4" trailblazer kit. Does any one have any experience with this company or this product? A grand is a lot of cash and I wanna spend it right!

TrollHammer

I am running about 3.5" lift bastard packs and stock shackles. I dont see how the shackle should make it any bouncier for being stock. Im not worried about the range of motion, since the upper leaf is still the same length and range of travel (well, I suppose down travel might be slightly more limited in special circumstances, but I dont need to stretch my brake lines out. It would probably do a good 9-10" of down travel.)

I have to admit I havent flexed it out yet, since the bump stops arent set up yet, but on road it didnt seem too bad. It actually seems a little stiffer than it used to be so far.

I might concider changing shackles at some point, but not until after the leaves have settled into their final height, and then only to make up for the difference in height front to back.

onlyinajeep726

Got a Hack N Tap SYE from Dirtbound Offroad and planning to install in a couple of days. Was wondering if the front drive shaft from another '88 XJ is fine with an HnT SYE setup? My '88 is an automatic with NP231 and the front drive shaft donor XJ is also an automatic with NP231. I have ~3.5" lift now and planning on going to 4.5" soon. Does everything sound good or do I need a ZJ front drive shaft?

1plunk

Xj stock will work, I'm running it right now haha works like a charm

BNJeepsta

I just put on 4.5" leafs and they sit about 5" and its so bouncy its hard to drive

cico

I'm looking at the Rubicon (3.5") and RC (3") lifts. Has anyone had to do the SYE or other mods with the Rubicon? I'm avoiding the 4.5" lifts so as not to have to go overboard with further mods. At least until the addiction sets in later...

Cheers,

1plunk

I had to do mine at 3" because my lift changed the angle and made my tcase go out, some people are fine, while others need it, depends on the rig

TrollHammer

Well.. It does depend on if you are using stock length springs. This means measuring along the bow from eye to eye (this didtance wont really change as the spring flexes) and comparing to a stock spring.

Some aftermarket spring packs try to ensure that the straight line distance between eyes remains the same while the arch increases. This increases the length along the bow, so as force is applied the distance from eye to eye increases. Stock springs are nearly flat with the vehicle stationary, so the shackle should be at its greatest distance. As the axle moves up or down, the shackle will retract.

If your lift spring is sitting normally with the shackle as far back as it will go, it is bucking against the frame, and the spring wont flex well. As force is applied, it pushes the eyes apart. If the shackle cant move, the spring cant flex, and you feel every pebble your tire hits.

A longer shackle will restore some movement, but also increase lift. This isnt desired if you have already leveled out your lift.

You can gain more range without new springs (youd either need shorter springs less lift to use longer shackles, or move the mount point), by using "boomarang shackles". These are only slightly longer, but have a bend in them to clear the shackle mount bracket.

You will have to check to see if the shackle is hitting the bracket. The clue for me is when you said you aquired 4.5" lift springs and they are sitting at 5. while some break in and settling might be expected, if those are new springs or used but not rebuilt, they shouldnt settle much (they should have anti friction pads to make them limber, or if used, should be broken in already)

I have to wait for mine to break in because I used old rusty leaves and no friction pads, so once they wear new groves into each other they will limber up. I also didnt need new shackles because I didnt change ky top leaf. My shackles are now more in the middle of their travel.

Anyway, this is just a guess. If you have full shackle travel without hitting anything and your shocks are functioning correctly, I have no idea what would cause such issues.