TrollHammer

Ratchet straps are easy. Just used this method to put longer controls arms in this weekend. Hooked one to the front bumper and one to the cross member (for safety, I've never left both control arms off without jackstands and something to keep the axle from running one way or other). With the lowers, the springs try to push the axle back, so I was mostly pulling with the ratchet strap forward from the bumper.

The straps I used were the (10,000 lb?) big yellow ones from Home Depot, which run about $14. They are nice to have around anyway, cheaper than chains, and 4 hold my jeep to the trailer nicely.

Once you get one control arm hooked in, the second is easy. The axle will hold in there stable with three arms (stationary, not driving, mind you), and the fourth should line up pretty close once the third is pinned in, or so I've found.

OnAll4s

New question. I installed my three inch lift on my ZJ. Now my transfer case shifter is backwards one position. For example 2H is a bit back. 4H part time is where full time should be. Full time is where neutral is. Nuetral is where 4L is and 4L is slammed back

Is this normal?
I also did a 1" TC drop

Juan4you

I've got a question, are pitman arms(that are recommended for lifts) longer or angled different than the stock one??

bhennessee1

Alright I did a 3.5 inch RE lift on my xj, I have got 4 degree shims in it and a 1 inch t case drop. I already know transfer case drops are the work of the devil, but that is not the point. I am still getting slight vibes and I want to know if I put in six degree shims instead of 4 degree would that help?

Nperryman

Can someone give me a lesson on shims? I have had a 3" lift on with stock lca and I'm not sure what they do/where they go/if they are needed or not.

bhennessee1

They go under the leafs to adjust pinion angle, they are one of those thing like sye and t case drop there is no way to know if you need them until you get the lift done.

Sideways99

need to get up in there and adjust your linkage on the t-case

backlash278

Hey guys I just picked up a 99' cherokee and have a question. I want to keep the actual body of my jeep stock so I really don't want to do any trimming of the fenders. I was wondering what size lift and tires I would be able to run effectively without having to worry about rubbing while maintaining the stock body. I was thinking about doing a 3" lift with 31" tires and wondering if the tire size would be too big. Other lift heights and tire sizes are more than welcome as I am completely unfamiliar to lifts and whatnot.

Erkmed XJ

3" should work i always see 31s on 3.5" lifts

Sorenabel

cheap site or place to buy 15" steel rims for the xj?

bhennessee1

Seriousoffroadproducts

Nperryman

Summit racing is the cheapest that I've found

Nperryman

You will also need new wheels with less backspacing (stick out farther) so you don't rub on your lower control arms and rear sway bar link.

Drewjharper1900

Hey everyone. Got a question for ya. Right now i have a 3" lift with a 1" tc drop. I am about to get a clayton long arm kit and i can't run a tc drop with the xmember because it needs to be welded in. So i was wondering if i took off the tc drop and put on degree shims, would it keep the vibes at bay? I know no one can say for sure but it makes since to me that it would work. What do you guys think?

99superjeep01

Are you going any taller? And did you have any vibes before you put the drop in or was it done the same time as the lift? Shims help the angle of the driveshaft going into the axle but don't help the angle of the t case u joint. And welding in the cross member? How would you pull out the t case if work needed to be done to it short of cutting things apart?