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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
03-28-2012, 08:30 AM
#6601
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Okay so I just purchased the RE 3.5" super-ride with rear leaf springs and was wondering if there was anything else I should be buying besides this kit (shocks?). I am planning on running 31's with this and was thinking about going to 32's but really don't want to do any trimming or go to wheels with a lower backspacing.
You need shocks - Bilstein 5100 is quite good. I also got a steering stabilizer, adjustable track arm, a SYE, CV and two longer break lines for the front (it only comes with 2 for the rear). I am also re-gearing the diffs to 4.10, so got the gear kits (D35c and D30) and carriers necessary...
I was advised to go with 31s or 33s, as 32 is an odd size with not many tires and wheels at good prices. Picked some steel 15x8 Pro-Comps on sale with BFG ATs.
The RE lift can be easily upgraded with a long arm kit they offer and bigger wheels. But as I am not looking for flex or crawling, that's a fine starting point...
03-28-2012, 10:07 AM
#6602
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You well get a lot of recommendations from a lot of knowledgeable and well meaning people on the forum.
If you are like me and still want 31s on stock wheels and not remove/cut the fender flares, stay with your choicse and you will be fine.
Gearing up to 4.56 is not necessary, replacing the rear axle with D44 or Ford 8.8 is not necessary, long arms are not necessary and he RE kit is considered excellent. The only question remaining and whether you wil have driveline vibrations and these can be resolved with a TC 1" drop (cheap) or a SYE (expensive)...
If you are like me and still want 31s on stock wheels and not remove/cut the fender flares, stay with your choicse and you will be fine.
Gearing up to 4.56 is not necessary, replacing the rear axle with D44 or Ford 8.8 is not necessary, long arms are not necessary and he RE kit is considered excellent. The only question remaining and whether you wil have driveline vibrations and these can be resolved with a TC 1" drop (cheap) or a SYE (expensive)...
03-28-2012, 10:29 AM
#6603
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Originally Posted by TrollHammer
Besides, the XJ can almost a thousand pounds lighter, depending on trim and options. My wife's first ZJ had a horrible time burning brakes on steep slopes, but Ive never had issues with the brakes holding up down hill.
Its also simpler to upgrade the rear axle in an XJ, whether you find a bolt in D44, or go with a Ford 8.8, leaf springs are easier to set up perches than control arm mounts.
The only bennifits there are to the ZJ is it is cheaper to lift (new spring wise, potentially), as the four coils are cheaper than a pair of coils and a pair of leaves, but then you also have two sets of control arms as well instead of two. SOME of the front suspension parts are more durable than in the XJ, but you have more potential for a stronger axle in an XJ in the rear, and can take the "best parts" of the ZJ and put them in an XJ. Personally Im not sure if having a V8 available is all that big of a bennifit, since there is at least 500 extra pounds to haul around in a ZJ, and its only got a few more ponies than the I6.
Ill find out this year, though. My wife's picked up a ZJ on the cheap and will be wheeling it.
03-28-2012, 12:00 PM
#6606
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Location: Frisco, Tx
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 01cherokeesport85
Any good and cheap places to get mickey thompson tires?
03-28-2012, 03:46 PM
#6608
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Location: New York
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
You well get a lot of recommendations from a lot of knowledgeable and well meaning people on the forum.
If you are like me and still want 31s on stock wheels and not remove/cut the fender flares, stay with your choicse and you will be fine.
Gearing up to 4.56 is not necessary, replacing the rear axle with D44 or Ford 8.8 is not necessary, long arms are not necessary and he RE kit is considered excellent. The only question remaining and whether you wil have driveline vibrations and these can be resolved with a TC 1" drop (cheap) or a SYE (expensive)...
If you are like me and still want 31s on stock wheels and not remove/cut the fender flares, stay with your choicse and you will be fine.
Gearing up to 4.56 is not necessary, replacing the rear axle with D44 or Ford 8.8 is not necessary, long arms are not necessary and he RE kit is considered excellent. The only question remaining and whether you wil have driveline vibrations and these can be resolved with a TC 1" drop (cheap) or a SYE (expensive)...
03-28-2012, 04:37 PM
#6609
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
03-28-2012, 06:22 PM
#6610
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: JOCO
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by SUPERYAN333
Need to pick up some wheel adaptors to run 5x5s on my XJ; any recomendations???
03-28-2012, 07:01 PM
#6611
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Location: Pennsylvania
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-28-2012, 08:50 PM
#6612
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Year: 1996, 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O. I6
Ok, i went to take off the upper control arms and the nut on the bolts holding the control arms are 15mm. but i have a problem taking the stock ones off. Can someone please tell me the size socket i'll need for the upper bolt and what size torx i will need for the bottom bolt???
03-28-2012, 09:42 PM
#6613
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Location: Western Massachusetts
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl
Has anyone purchased the RCX brand rims off rough country? 183 for 4 d-windows seems like a really good deal, just curious on opinions.
03-29-2012, 07:01 AM
#6614
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Cherokee 5-0
Ok, i went to take off the upper control arms and the nut on the bolts holding the control arms are 15mm. but i have a problem taking the stock ones off. Can someone please tell me the size socket i'll need for the upper bolt and what size torx i will need for the bottom bolt???
03-29-2012, 09:48 AM
#6615
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Year: 1985 and 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 350 sbc, 4.0 HO
More Lift?
Okay, I put a 350/350 in my 85 XJ and put in a 3" space up front and some blocks in the rear (temporary). I will be getting Dakota leafs soon. I left the stock springs in the front and I think they either are a little tired or the weight of the 350 compressed them more that I thought they would or both. The front needs more lift. The uca's hit the header flange if I go over too big of a bump too fast. I read somewhere that you can use F150 coils in the front and get about 4" of lift. How high can I go without new, longer upper or lower control arms, or other suspension components. It is not a crawler or anything, just a DD so flex is really not a concern. Just want it high enough so the uca' will not hit the headers everytime I go over a bump too fast.