Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Wheels and Tires
- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
Important information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: Wheels and Tires
All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
#8792
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: dunkirk ny
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97 and 01
Model: Cherokee
ok good they are majorly towed out the guy at the shop was like "you mind coming back in the morning when our good alignment guy is in?"
#8794
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#8795
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rockford illinois
Posts: 773
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: h.o. 4.0
Originally Posted by dukie564
do it yourself - the toe is the only real alignment adjustment on a cherokee. You can do it in your driveway with a tape measure...
#8798
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Soddy Daisy, TN
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by dukie564
do it yourself - the toe is the only real alignment adjustment on a cherokee. You can do it in your driveway with a tape measure...
Just follow this....
http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html
#8800
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: dunkirk ny
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97 and 01
Model: Cherokee
HAHA breaking stuff lose in ny! you break it before it comes lose with the rust here and the shops doing it for 30 i know them well so
#8801
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Soddy Daisy, TN
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by bigsal39
HAHA breaking stuff lose in ny! you break it before it comes lose with the rust here and the shops doing it for 30 i know them well so
#8802
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by bigsal39
HAHA breaking stuff lose in ny! you break it before it comes lose with the rust here and the shops doing it for 30 i know them well so
#8803
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: virginia
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
looking for cheapest/best 8in lift. pleaase help!
i have a 92 cherokee that i want to put 35s on. and i want it to flex ALOT. im thinking an 8in lift would give me plenty of flexing room with 35x12.50s. im looking for some advice on what to buy, problems i might run into, and anything that will make lifting my xj easier. ive heard going this high can put strain on the unibody also, this is my daily driver. advice and insight would be greatly appreciated.
#8804
Junior Member
Whew. This is going to take a minute so hang on while I type...
So, have you ever lifted an XJ at all? Or owned an ORV? If you haven't then perhaps you should re-evaluate your priorities.
Personally, A LOT of flex is A LOT of wasted money. Flex is over-rated. Flex is for highschool kids that play on the curbs at school. 35's are fine. I run 35's and I love them. Lift your Jeep to around 5 inches. Add correct bumpstops and limiting straps with a long arm lift and you'll be way more satisfied than if you had 14 inches off lift and A LOT of flex.
IF you think you're ready for that then you should go down the list. Hopefully, you're not going to listen to the 40 people that chime in and say that all you need to do is slap springs and 35's on it and go.
Tires ($1200-$1500)
Lift (MUST be long arms at that height.) ($1200-$2000)
BUMPSTOPS and Limiting straps ($100-$200)
Brake lines ($100)
SYE and Driveshaft (~$400)
Some upgraded rear axle. I prefer the 8.8 (~$500)
Either build the **** out of your Dana30 or upgrade to a Dana44. You'll be much cheaper with the 44. ($500-$2500)
Modified Steering. (THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!! YOU WILL DIE WITHOUT IT!!!) ($500)
You're going to need some different wheels. ($300-$500)
Hmmm, I'm forgetting something.
(Added ya some ball park figures in there... depending graciously how you build but that's about average I'd say.)
So, have you ever lifted an XJ at all? Or owned an ORV? If you haven't then perhaps you should re-evaluate your priorities.
Personally, A LOT of flex is A LOT of wasted money. Flex is over-rated. Flex is for highschool kids that play on the curbs at school. 35's are fine. I run 35's and I love them. Lift your Jeep to around 5 inches. Add correct bumpstops and limiting straps with a long arm lift and you'll be way more satisfied than if you had 14 inches off lift and A LOT of flex.
IF you think you're ready for that then you should go down the list. Hopefully, you're not going to listen to the 40 people that chime in and say that all you need to do is slap springs and 35's on it and go.
Tires ($1200-$1500)
Lift (MUST be long arms at that height.) ($1200-$2000)
BUMPSTOPS and Limiting straps ($100-$200)
Brake lines ($100)
SYE and Driveshaft (~$400)
Some upgraded rear axle. I prefer the 8.8 (~$500)
Either build the **** out of your Dana30 or upgrade to a Dana44. You'll be much cheaper with the 44. ($500-$2500)
Modified Steering. (THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!! YOU WILL DIE WITHOUT IT!!!) ($500)
You're going to need some different wheels. ($300-$500)
Hmmm, I'm forgetting something.
(Added ya some ball park figures in there... depending graciously how you build but that's about average I'd say.)
Last edited by Lowrange2; 08-09-2012 at 03:58 PM.
#8805
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Santa Rosa, California
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1987 Comanche,1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
^Go with a quality kit with long arms(8" will be fine). You might want to stiffen the unibody. And if you haven't regeared, regearing is a must for 35s.