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Old 10-08-2012, 11:25 AM
  #10426  
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Originally Posted by Trumpster
I got the front end all done on my lift (decided to take a break before tackling the rear after the fight with the front) but I'm wondering if I should get a drop pittman arm or not.

Installed the 4.5'' Rough Country X series lift, new coils, shocks, adjustable track bar, and adjustable upper and lower control arms. In the short bit I moved the Jeep to turn it around and back into the garage I felt like the turning radius was a bit bigger but wasn't sure if that was in my head or not.

So, should I get a drop pittman arm and if so, how much of a drop should I be looking for?

Thanks!
You shouldn't need a dropped arm for a 4" lift. You want your drag link and trac bar to be parallel. If you're not sure, post a picture.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:29 AM
  #10427  
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Originally Posted by McCaffrey
This is semi-related to the topics here so I'll ask.

How do you get the steering stabilizer off the drag link? I removed the nut and tried a ball joint fork with no luck. Am I just being too genital?

I have a new RE I'd like to install.

I would get a ball joint puller/claw rather than a "pickle fork" if that's what you're using. They're pretty cheap and are great for keeping joint boots in tact if you want to reuse them rather than destroying the boot like a pickle fork does. Your local Sears or auto parts store probably has a 2/3 arm puller for around $15-$25. Well worth the money if you ask me.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:30 AM
  #10428  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
First, there should be no genitals used to remove the stabilizer.

Yes, you're being too gentle. Smack the hell out of it with a big hammer.
hahahaha. I got owned by spell checker.

Thanks. I suspected as much but wanted to check with the experts before moving forward. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Trumpster
I would get a ball joint puller/claw rather than a "pickle fork" if that's what you're using. They're pretty cheap and are great for keeping joint boots in tact if you want to reuse them rather than destroying the boot like a pickle fork does. Your local Sears or auto parts store probably has a 2/3 arm puller for around $15-$25. Well worth the money if you ask me.
I'm slowly building my tool collection back up. I'll pick-up one of those. Thanks.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:36 AM
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Thanks Lowrange, I'll take a look when I get home from work today and see what it looks like. I should be able to tell if they're parallel or not without too much trouble lol.

If for some reason it's unclear I'll post up a pic
Old 10-08-2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
First, there should be no genitals used to remove the stabilizer.

Yes, you're being too gentle. Smack the hell out of it with a big hammer.
LOL

Im getting bump steer now and it hasn't been a problem over the past 3 months. Everything is tight and nothing looks too worn out... Could my redrilled track bar hole have egged out? It also feels like when i had my stock LCA's in there and i got that bad shimmy that LR2 knows about
Old 10-08-2012, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
LOL

Im getting bump steer now and it hasn't been a problem over the past 3 months. Everything is tight and nothing looks too worn out... Could my redrilled track bar hole have egged out? It also feels like when i had my stock LCA's in there and i got that bad shimmy that LR2 knows about
Have you looked at the hole to see if its wallared out?
Old 10-08-2012, 11:41 AM
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What arms did you go to? I fixed mine with new LCA bushings.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Xj88
Have you looked at the hole to see if its wallared out?
Haven't been able to remove the track bar yet, hopefully getting an adj. one soon just wondering if that would cause bump steer or full on DW cause i haven't have that yet
Old 10-08-2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
What arms did you go to? I fixed mine with new LCA bushings.
Fixed RC ones with new bushings and snugged everything up
Old 10-08-2012, 11:43 AM
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I seriously doubt the tracbar being loose would cause bumpsteer.

The shimmy, on the other hand, ....

Lay on the ground and get someone to turn the wheel back and forth till they start *****ing.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
I seriously doubt the tracbar being loose would cause bumpsteer.

The shimmy, on the other hand, ....

Lay on the ground and get someone to turn the wheel back and forth till they start *****ing.
I've tightened everything really good with a breaker bar so idk what would be lose but i'll have someone do that, as best i could tell last time all the play was in my steering box. any way to tell if its the box or a cracked spacer behind it?
Old 10-08-2012, 11:46 AM
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Yeah, look for anything that moves that's not supposed to.
Old 10-08-2012, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Yeah, look for anything that moves that's not supposed to.
One of these days i'll put in the steel spacer i made for it but thanks, btw travis has some nice pics of your jeep from d town
Old 10-08-2012, 11:55 AM
  #10439  
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lol he got them from me.

http://photobucket.com/matanzawfwride
Old 10-08-2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by my89xj
Just get the 3.5 kit. It's best for what you plan to do.
That's what I was thinking of doing. I just know that the 4.5 comes with the adjustable track bar and comes with the new upper control arms (3.5 only has lower). Should that really matter or no?


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