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Zone or RC
Okay everyone talked me into a 4.5" lift So now my question or more or less need some opinions on whether to get the Zone Off Road kit, or the RC kit. Both have to have The rear springs, mine are shot(pretty sure there as old as the Jeep its self...Ok the entire jeep is OEM). To get the comparable kits they will cost about $900 including shipping. Any thoughts?
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Preface: I picked up a set of TJ Canyon rims (nice shape, low price $100/5) on CL.
My '96 XJ is unlifted; I'd like to leave it that way (it's for snow, around town, hauling stuff, pulling a utility trailer, occasional camping, etc., kind-of-stuff: no off-road beyond Park Service roads, really). I'm currently running on a mismatched set of P235x75x15's on 15" chrome rims of unknown origin & BS (courtesy of the PO: the tires were in good shape - still are - and "waste not, want not").
The stock TJ Canyon rims are 15x8 with 5.5 backspacing. (And I really like the way they look on XJ's I've seen 'em on around town ...and there's a lot of XJ's in Spokane.)
To my question: there's a set of 30x10.5x15's in the local CL for cheap (cheap is bred into my DNA). Would that tire/rim combo have much-if-any clearance issues on a stock, non-lifted XJ?
Does anyone else run this combo? Issues?
Can anyone with better search skills direct me to an answer/pictures?
(I did search this thread, looking for 30x10.5x15's ...used "30x10.5" and struck out with other combinations. I did find a guy asking about a combo somewhat close to what I'm interested in here. But he was asking about 4" BS, so I didn't think the answer he got - i.e., "the tires would stick out a bit" - was definitive for my combo.)
Thanks!
My '96 XJ is unlifted; I'd like to leave it that way (it's for snow, around town, hauling stuff, pulling a utility trailer, occasional camping, etc., kind-of-stuff: no off-road beyond Park Service roads, really). I'm currently running on a mismatched set of P235x75x15's on 15" chrome rims of unknown origin & BS (courtesy of the PO: the tires were in good shape - still are - and "waste not, want not").
The stock TJ Canyon rims are 15x8 with 5.5 backspacing. (And I really like the way they look on XJ's I've seen 'em on around town ...and there's a lot of XJ's in Spokane.)
To my question: there's a set of 30x10.5x15's in the local CL for cheap (cheap is bred into my DNA). Would that tire/rim combo have much-if-any clearance issues on a stock, non-lifted XJ?
Does anyone else run this combo? Issues?
Can anyone with better search skills direct me to an answer/pictures?
(I did search this thread, looking for 30x10.5x15's ...used "30x10.5" and struck out with other combinations. I did find a guy asking about a combo somewhat close to what I'm interested in here. But he was asking about 4" BS, so I didn't think the answer he got - i.e., "the tires would stick out a bit" - was definitive for my combo.)
Thanks!
235/75R15 is the max that will fit unless you want to trim your fenders
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by dukie564
30s won't fit on a stock XJ without rubbing, especially with TJ canyons.
235/75R15 is the max that will fit unless you want to trim your fenders
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
LT30x10.0R15
Was that city, or off-road, or both driving? Could the condition of the shocks have been a factor (i.e., do you recall if your OE suspension was worn or in good shape)? I ask because I was already planning on putting on new shocks, and wondered if that might make a difference (new mono-shocks made a huge difference to my TJ).
...I've read a bunch of threads that said that either 235x75R15 or 30x9.50x15 were the largest for a stock suspension. (And I have currently zip-nada issues with the 235's.)
...note: I made a mistake - since corrected - in my original question. The tires being offered are 30x10.0x15 (and not 30x10.50x15 as I originally wrote).
I've been playing with the numbers on the 1010tire and DML sites, to see what the difference in dimensions look like.
235x75R15 = itself (of course)
30x9.50x15 = 241x79R15
30x10.0x15 = 254x75R15
To my way of figuring, that 20mm difference only means a 10mm difference in clearance every which way in practical terms.
Given that the only "real way" to tell is to mount 'em and drive 'em, when you're getting down to the nitty gritty, that's why I asked if anyone had any experience with a similar setup.
LT30x10.0R15's ain't exactly a commonly seen size.
...I do thank you and dukie564 for your thoughts.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by brdavis9
So, they didn't clear the lower control arms?
Was that city, or off-road, or both driving? Could the condition of the shocks have been a factor (i.e., do you recall if your OE suspension was worn or in good shape)? I ask because I was already planning on putting on new shocks, and wondered if that might make a difference (new mono-shocks made a huge difference to my TJ).
...I've read a bunch of threads that said that either 235x75R15 or 30x9.50x15 were the largest for a stock suspension. (And I have currently zip-nada issues with the 235's.)
...note: I made a mistake - since corrected - in my original question. The tires being offered are 30x10.0x15 (and not 30x10.50x15 as I originally wrote).
I've been playing with the numbers on the 1010tire and DML sites, to see what the difference in dimensions look like.
235x75R15 = itself (of course)
30x9.50x15 = 241x79R15
30x10.0x15 = 254x75R15
To my way of figuring, that 20mm difference only means a 10mm difference in clearance every which way in practical terms.
Given that the only "real way" to tell is to mount 'em and drive 'em, when you're getting down to the nitty gritty, that's why I asked if anyone had any experience with a similar setup.
LT30x10.0R15's ain't exactly a commonly seen size.
...I do thank you and dukie564 for your thoughts.
Or just use 235/75r15 tires. That's the easiest solution. Even some of those will rub on a stock setup if the tires have large enough tread blocks.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
30x10.0R15
My shocks are all blown, and it was mostly street driving for me. Regardless of terrain, though, 30s will rub your LCAs if you turn your wheel far enough. This can be helped by adjusting your steering stops (lose turning radius), buying aftermarket wheels with less backspacing (to move your tires further away from the body), or by replacing your LCAs (many aftermarket control arms are round and have bends for tire clearance).
Or just use 235/75r15 tires. That's the easiest solution. Even some of those will rub on a stock setup if the tires have large enough tread blocks.
Or just use 235/75r15 tires. That's the easiest solution. Even some of those will rub on a stock setup if the tires have large enough tread blocks.
...at $100 for the used set, I might be able to live with the 30x10x15's though ...especially if the only issue is a slight diminution in turn radius (and taking your suggestion to adjust the steering stops: which I'll shortly be googling).
Generally, if we're going to be doing something involving tight turns, we'll most likely be in the Wrangler anyways lol.
...if/when I buy new tires, I'd already decided upon a set of 235x75R15 Cooper AT3's, so I shouldn't have to worry about tread blocks. (They're $116/ea free shipping at DT right now w/a $75 rebate from Cooper through early Nov ...just have to come up with the bucks.)
So "easiest" may trump "cheap" in the end, after all.
Appreciate it.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just as a point for fun. I have 33"s, 3.75" BS and can turn super tight. To the point of the tires scrubbing on the ground like they're being pushed sideways. Every time I hear the sound of the tires scrubbing all I can think of is $$$ being worn away.
Last edited by McCaffrey; 10-24-2012 at 03:44 PM.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by brdavis9
Thanks. That was pretty useful info.
...at $100 for the used set, I might be able to live with the 30x10x15's though ...especially if the only issue is a slight diminution in turn radius (and taking your suggestion to adjust the steering stops: which I'll shortly be googling).
Generally, if we're going to be doing something involving tight turns, we'll most likely be in the Wrangler anyways lol.
...if/when I buy new tires, I'd already decided upon a set of 235x75R15 Cooper AT3's, so I shouldn't have to worry about tread blocks. (They're $116/ea free shipping at DT right now w/a $75 rebate from Cooper through early Nov ...just have to come up with the bucks.)
So "easiest" may trump "cheap" in the end, after all.
Appreciate it.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Originally Posted by countryboyxj
Okay everyone talked me into a 4.5" lift So now my question or more or less need some opinions on whether to get the Zone Off Road kit, or the RC kit. Both have to have The rear springs, mine are shot(pretty sure there as old as the Jeep its self...Ok the entire jeep is OEM). To get the comparable kits they will cost about $900 including shipping. Any thoughts?
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4ho
It was a real struggle to install my factory track back after my 3'' lift install. I can't afford a new one right now. If it worth drilling a new hole and filling in the factory one?
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Thinking of saving up for a rc 6.5 inch lift, is it necessary to get a drive shaft and sye immediately or can it wait for a little bit till I get more money for them? Oh and I have a 01 4 door...
Last edited by sam.bellet; 10-24-2012 at 07:52 PM.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by sam.bellet
Thinking of saving up for a rc 6.5 inch lift, is it necessary to get a drive shaft and sye immediately or can it wait for a little bit till I get more money for them? Oh and I have a 01 4 door...
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Originally Posted by Lyferxb9s
It was a real struggle to install my factory track back after my 3'' lift install. I can't afford a new one right now. If it worth drilling a new hole and filling in the factory one?
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Originally Posted by Parsnip
At 4.5 in its optional...at 6.5 I feel that without it your going to have serious binding angles id get the Sye right away