NewKindOfClown

It's gonna get in somewhere, and it won't want to leave. That's why I pull off the stock door/bed trim before all the metal is gone.

brdavis9

Heh. Not much.

But I'm not fording creeks (often) either. I'll seal the top and edges ...and leave the bottoms open to allow 'em to drain; I have Warrior corners on the TJ, so I'm of passing familiarity with the issue.

And it doesn't get driven all that much even in inclement weather (we work from home) ...lives in a garage ...usually has plenty of time to dry out between baths.

Likely - since this is a rocker panel - I'll also bedline (or something suitably preventive) the area covered by the panels prior to installing 'em.

...they do offer protection from people opening their doors. (It's a mall runner: it can get vicious out there lol.)

AND!!!

My wife likes 'em. Actually, she pointed 'em out to me.

So the decision is ...by request.

'Nuff said?

brdavis9

Yeah. It is ...actually, caulk the top and leading and trailing edges when installing it works better (and looks better). Leave the bottom open to drain, and breathe.

(Sorry, I missed this before.)

1998xjspt

Yup, mine came like that too seems like they got bumped into every which way it possibly could. I expected them to come in a box or atleast plastic wrapped and taped. idk. pretty dissapointed

mgclark6

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...-guide-150372/
If you're replacing shocks along with those new springs, check out this thread. ^^^^

brdavis9

Thanks!



I'm sure that one will come in handy (I subscribed so I can find it again, lol) ...over 40 years of drilling out rusted, broken bolts from impossible to reach locations has kind of inured me to the probability, sigh.

...I'm still puzzling over which shocks I'm going to replace them with, though.



Gawd. I've read what must be a hundred threads. I've downloaded almost all the shock specs (and all the propaganda lol ...thank gawd for PDF's, or I'd be buried in glossy brochures and parts manuals).

I've settled on some shock ...and then changed my mind to something else ...and then changed back ...or to a third choice ...at least a dozen times.



I've already more than doubled my pathetically limited-at-this-time budget (I really need a catalytic convertor first, Christmas is upon us, yada-yada-yada).



But.

I got nothin'.

...I'd pretty much settle for the shocks that actually came on the original Upcountry or police package (well, if they were affordable ...which, hey, they're OEM and they're not an UpCountry sticker, so they might be, actually, affordable). But hell, I've looked (and usually I'm at least mildly passable at finding ****) ...and I have no idea what those really were, nor what their actual spec's were (I do know they were monotubes & not twin-tubes ...well, if the literature isn't lying). If I just knew the actual specs, I could at least narrow it down a bit.



Since the subject came up though, I'd like to know why the Monroe Severe Service rear's - that's one of my budget choices ...and if I knew the reason, would probably put back to the top of my list, even though they're not a monotube design - have such short travel ...and why such short travel would be a good thing? Seems kind of counter-intuitive. Most of both the front and rear shock spec's are right around 7 inches of travel; have only 2 3/8 inches??? That's it? What's up with that?

(Oh. And if I actually had a budget, I'd just get the same KYB Monotubes that I run on the TJ; wouldn't even think about it. Like 'em. They improved the ride on the little Jeep about 100% the day they were installed lol. Sigh: which only reminds me that I actually had a budget then.)

mgclark6

If its a temp solution, I'd go of the cheapest and upgrade to quality and performance when you can ford it.

mgclark6

I know this is wrong thread to post this, but it has more ubscribers that might be able to help or forward this for me. I use iPad app for this forum and the latest update for iPhone 5 really screwed this app up big time for iPad users. Not sure who to tell and half of my screen is now invisible. Very hard to use app and this forum now. If you have this as an app don't download the latest upgrade. And also, could someone forward this to an admin?
Again sorry to post this here but now my options are limited.
Mike

NewKindOfClown

They don't do the app. A third party makes it, and our owner IB pays them to have a CF app. CF can't help with that.

Jeepster1993

really glad my question got answered....not. thought this was for lift and tire combo questions not a bunch of rambling. this is what ticks me off when people ask questions and you get "uhhh why didnt you do a search thats why it there" well you wanna know why cause when you do you get a bunch of random garbage like this.

NewKindOfClown

Feel free to leave the Forum. You're new, and you likely won't be missed.
I want this place to grow, but not with people who get pissed because people don't know the answer to their questions.
Try the tech section on Pirate4x4.com. They know a lot more than us.

BNJeepsta

Hahahaha and they are sooo nice too

NewKindOfClown

Anyone who's been on here a while will say I try to be helpful, but he wants reviews about a brand new tire from an unknown company, and he's *****ing that none of us have heard of it.

dukie564

really? You're not going to get much help if you start pissing people off within the first 30 posts on the board...


Anyways the tire you posted looks like a cheap knockoff, and the price reflects that. Tires are one place where you really do get what you pay for. And at $135/tire, you will likely get terrible treadwear and road manners, and by the look o the tread blocks, terrible road traction in rain. I'd steer clear of those.

In the 31" flavor a decent tire will be around $160-200/ea. Look for ones with siping (grooves in the treads), not just flat tread blocks.
I've run Firestone Destination M/Ts are those were cheap and awesome on-road and off.

McCaffrey

I always go there for nice, relaxing, friendly chat.