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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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#1216
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Parker, Co / 29 Palms, CA
Posts: 8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
im thinking about getting this lift for my xj,
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...number=RC-633N
what do you think?
i saw it came with brake line relocating brackets, is there anything else i would have to relocate or extend to make this kit work?
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...number=RC-633N
what do you think?
i saw it came with brake line relocating brackets, is there anything else i would have to relocate or extend to make this kit work?
#1218
Newbie
15 1/2 for the upper control arms? I did that as well and the lower arms get stuck on the shock brackets at "full flex" I feel as though it should go lower because i cant even get the spring close to fitting in. any ideas?
#1219
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 30
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
sooo i have a 2000 xj and i put 1.5" wheel spacers on and i was checking my tires and my back wheels will go in and out and it looked like the drums moved with the tires. is that a bad wheel bearing or what could it all be?
thanks
thanks
#1221
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Parker, Co / 29 Palms, CA
Posts: 8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
im thinking about getting this lift for my xj,
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...number=RC-633N
what do you think?
i saw it came with brake line relocating brackets, is there anything else i would have to relocate or extend to make this kit work?
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product...number=RC-633N
what do you think?
i saw it came with brake line relocating brackets, is there anything else i would have to relocate or extend to make this kit work?
#1222
Hello, within the next year I'm hoping to have a 4.5 - 6" lift on my cherokee. I have the np 207 so I can't find a sye. With 6 degree shims, long travel yoke, and a tc drop should I be ok? She's an 86. I hope to net at least 4.5" but I'm shooting for 5.5" Searched and searched but nothing was as exact as mine. Thanks.
( Thanks to who ever started this thread. I have already had a ton of Q's answered)
( Thanks to who ever started this thread. I have already had a ton of Q's answered)
FWIW my personal advice would be to sell it and buy something thats an 88 or newer so you'll get an AW4 and NP231/NP242 Combo.
The drivetrain that you have in that XJ is more hassle than its worth IMO
#1223
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 415
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Year: 92 & 99
Model: Cherokee
OH gawd. So that means you have the 2.5 or the POS 2.8L V6...and a ****ty transmission to go with the ****ty transfer case.
FWIW my personal advice would be to sell it and buy something thats an 88 or newer so you'll get an AW4 and NP231/NP242 Combo.
The drivetrain that you have in that XJ is more hassle than its worth IMO
FWIW my personal advice would be to sell it and buy something thats an 88 or newer so you'll get an AW4 and NP231/NP242 Combo.
The drivetrain that you have in that XJ is more hassle than its worth IMO
#1225
the AWD Cherokees have a NP242 transfer case, its a different case so it wont fit their crossmember, but the NP231 does.
Personally I'm going to save up a few extra pennies and get this:
http://tntcustoms.com/y-linkupgradexj.aspx
They used to be listed at $850 un-powder coated, which I'm going to try to call them and get. I don't want some pretty powder coat that I'm just gonna scrape off on rocks and stuff, I'd rather use rattle can paint that I can do touch up work to in a matter of minutes
Personally I'm going to save up a few extra pennies and get this:
http://tntcustoms.com/y-linkupgradexj.aspx
They used to be listed at $850 un-powder coated, which I'm going to try to call them and get. I don't want some pretty powder coat that I'm just gonna scrape off on rocks and stuff, I'd rather use rattle can paint that I can do touch up work to in a matter of minutes
#1226
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fort lewis, wa/ university place, wa
Posts: 1,062
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
the AWD Cherokees have a NP242 transfer case, its a different case so it wont fit their crossmember, but the NP231 does.
Personally I'm going to save up a few extra pennies and get this:
http://tntcustoms.com/y-linkupgradexj.aspx
They used to be listed at $850 un-powder coated, which I'm going to try to call them and get. I don't want some pretty powder coat that I'm just gonna scrape off on rocks and stuff, I'd rather use rattle can paint that I can do touch up work to in a matter of minutes
Personally I'm going to save up a few extra pennies and get this:
http://tntcustoms.com/y-linkupgradexj.aspx
They used to be listed at $850 un-powder coated, which I'm going to try to call them and get. I don't want some pretty powder coat that I'm just gonna scrape off on rocks and stuff, I'd rather use rattle can paint that I can do touch up work to in a matter of minutes
#1227
its the same kit that EricsXJ is running and from what I've found its by far the best kit for the money on the market without going for a 3 or 4 link set-up
#1228
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Ft. Myers, Fl.
Posts: 632
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Year: 1997, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
to measure the actual lift. measure from the top of the axle tube(the actual tube, not steering linkages or knuckls the actual tube) to the bottom of the frame rail(not bump stops or brackets)
the front stock is 6 3/4"
the rear stock is 6"
Anything higher than that is your lift.
the front stock is 6 3/4"
the rear stock is 6"
Anything higher than that is your lift.
this is in reply to the pictures of my jeep with 33's (pictures on page 78)
i measured and the distance is 9" front and rear.
so now my questions are:
is this enough lift to run 31's?
how much of a difference power etc wise will i see from 33's down to 31's?
should i still re-gear?
#1229
this is in reply to the pictures of my jeep with 33's (pictures on page 78)
i measured and the distance is 9" front and rear.
so now my questions are:
is this enough lift to run 31's?
how much of a difference power etc wise will i see from 33's down to 31's?
should i still re-gear?
i measured and the distance is 9" front and rear.
so now my questions are:
is this enough lift to run 31's?
how much of a difference power etc wise will i see from 33's down to 31's?
should i still re-gear?
the difference between 31s and 33s is about the same as the difference between stock and 31s