Loganfwx

I found some front springs off of a Grand Cherokee. I forget the year, 90s I think. Will these give me any lift in the front? They're off of one with the 4.0, as far as I know.

cob24

As far as install goes its pretty easy if you have just a buddy over to help you with the control arms (if you get new ones). I think you will probably find the best prices online for a new kit but if you keep checking craigslist you mind come across a decent used kit. If you have socket wrenches maybe a can of pb blaster your good

BeastXJ

Blocks are bad if your going to do a lot of wheeling because it puts a lot of stress on the main leaf when you get wheel hop and you could snap the leaf or with the twisting bend it or just spit the block out. Better to just go with a bastard pack as was mentioned.

jeepman13

not sure if its been asked...i searched for it and couldnt find anything....So is there a good 3" lift with all new leaves? if so is there one you reccomend...or do i even need all new leaves, mine arent that bad. thanks

OHHNOES

16 inch rims, any problems running 32s on them? I have a 4 inch lift with cut fenders. Thanks in advance for answering this question. Yes i have searched. lol

xj_maniac_newb

Not completely true, blocks are bad if you have bad springs, You would never be able to tell you had blocks on new springs, its all personal preference in my opinion. What you really have to watch out for with blocks is cracking. If you get cheap blocks (hollow aluminum for example) then they can crack and tha'ts not something you want to happen

xj_maniac_newb

? Not being a smartass, but there should be no difference between running 32s on a 15 or 16 inch wheels. That may not have been what you asked, just throwin that out there. The only real difference i see with running 15 or 16 inch tires is with 16s tires are more expensive and you have less sidewall

EDIT: But if you're asking if 32s will fit on a 4 inch lift, then the answer is yes

OHHNOES

Yeah i wasnt taking it as u being a smart ***. i was just wondering if there might have been something that i wasnt thinking about. like the whole sidewall thing. i appreciate the response. i kinda like to get other suggestions on this type of stuff in case i overlook something. nobody in my family is mechanically inclined.lol Thanks

XJ99

Sorry Folks, this is a little confusing for me, on where exactly I need to post a New Thread and not a Reply. Apologies!

I have read so many threads from this site and others but still haven't found what I'm looking for. RE: 2.5 inch lift(only) issues. I've read many 3", 3.5", 4" etc... lifts but that obviously doesn't help with my modest 2 inch front/2.5 inch read lift question. So here it goes....

I recently installed an OME 2 inch Front and 2.5 inch Rear lift on my Manual 5 Speed, 1999, 8.25 rear axle Jeep XJ. Surprisingly, I suffered NO broken bolts but did take my time and finessed the bolts out with lots of torch heat and penetrant fluid. After the installation I found a small drive shaft vibration of which I'm not happy with. Now, people say for a lift that small you don't need a SYE and all that other stuff. So why is it happening? I haven't put on the 1,2, or 3??? degree spacer yet because I don't know how to measure the drive shaft (from where to where on the shaft?...Reference points?). Also, how or from where do you measure the angles? Like most mechanics say..."Start with the easiest and cheapest then work your way up". Well, I think the easiest would be dropping the TCase(because it's most accessible, then the the spacer (because the Leaf springs are a PITA to take apart when on the jeep). After that, I was thinking of getting a slightly longer front drive shaft from another XJ? But how long does it have to be, to make up the difference on the T-Case output shaft so it doesn't pop off going over railroad tracks at higher speeds(Which nearly happened today!!! Huge vibration after that happen, but then slipped back in..lucky me!!!) I can't afford the SYE and am not confident in my abilities to take apart the T-Case to mess around with. Also, how much stress would I be putting on the engine mounts and associated connecting parts by dropping the T-Case 1/2 inch vs. 1 inch if so required? My jeep is a Daily driver and just want it to operate competently and reliably. Nothing extreme!
Any thoughts out there? I'm at a loss. My potential solution: I would like to get a slightly longer drive shaft(Like a front shaft from another XJ, Auto or Manual????) for the rear and install a "whatever" degree spacer to make up for the slightly increased distance created by this little lift. Would this work?????? If I can, I don't want to drop the T-Case, because then what's the point of lifting the Jeep????

This Forum is my "GO TO" web site for all sorts of questions and have found a lot of awesome and helpful answers. Please Help! Anybody???

Thanks eh. Big time. Sorry for the verbose write up. Just trying the cover all the bases.

I hope this all makes???

QFT

2 questions.
I just replaced my rear BFG AT's and I'd like to make sure I'm doing things right. The fronts apparently have 10/32" tread left (12/32 is brand new)

1. Which typically wears faster, tires on the front or rear? I'm thinking of moving the new ones to where they'll catch up faster.

2. How big of a difference between tire sizes could possibly cause transfer case damage?

whitexj98

Has anyone put the grand cherokee suspension on an xi just to get a little more agressive look

SCJeeper

Can i fit a spacer 1 or 2 inches on my lift already which was new coils and not get new shocks? please help, i want a level stance

aircruiser

you should be fine i ran 33s on a 4.5" lift trimmed w/ no extended bumpstops for a good 2 years with no issures.

i would try a tcase drop first. like everyone says, every jeep is different. i ran a 1" drop on mine at 4.5" and had slight vibes between 45-50mph, i did an SYE when i went to 7" and it solved all that.

fronts will wear faster because they are not always going straight like the rears and have to carry more weight. as for tire size differences, bigger is always going to put more strain on everything. if i had to do it all over on my jeep, i would have stayed at 5.5" and 33s. perfect setup IMO. i just started doing more and more black diamond trails which required more clearance and suspension travel so i upgraded. just would have been easier on the wallet to stay a little smaller haha

??? not sure what you mean.

whats your setup right now?

1stCherokee

OK I am a total noob to lift kits, so bear with me. I have a 2000 jeep cherokee that I want to lift and I have a few questions.

I have been looking at roughcounty's 3in and 4.5in lift kits both would have full leaf packs. This is my daily driver so it needs to be drivable in the end, but I only want to lift this once. So I need to make the right decision. So if I buy the 3in with full packs, it ends up being almost as much as the 4.5in kit. I would like to go with the 4.5in kit but am afraid that it will get death wobble when I lift it that high. I don't want to but the Yoke slip eliminator and all that stuff because that gets very expensive. So I am in a bind any help would be very appreciated.

Or if you have any other suggetions as far as different kits that would be better please tell me. I have looked at rust'y and heard mixed things, OME looks good but expensive. I am just confused.

shadowlm15

how do i get this tcase linkage drop bracket thingy in here... tried and tried but the pivoting bar (that the arm for the shifter and the arms that go to the tcase goes from unibody to bracket on transmission) how do i move it out enough to put the bracket in?? tcase drop is a skyjacker for a 98 auto 4x4 cherokee.

link wouldnt tell me how to resize the picture says contact admin.. sorry