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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
03-03-2013, 11:43 AM
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a 98 Cherokee. The previous owner put 2 inch lift blocks in the rear and hockey pucks in the front. The rear springs are sagging badly so I thought I would replace the rear springs with 2 1/2 inch lift leafs. I ordered the pro comp 53111 springs and plan to put them on tomorrow. Today I read those will give a Cherokee 4 inches of lift. Has anyone used these and what were your results. Thanks.
03-03-2013, 12:57 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-03-2013, 07:28 PM
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Model: Cherokee
I'm finally getting a 97 ZJ and i plan on getting a 3.5" lift from Rubicon express. Other than shocks and tires is there anything else I should get right away to go along with the lift, maybe steering components or anything like that?
03-03-2013, 08:12 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Adjustable front track bar. I'm guessing the zj has a rear track bar so an adjustable rear track bar also.
03-03-2013, 09:48 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter straight 6
I just bought this cherokee, and I cant quite put my finger on how big the lift is, could you guys give your opinions on how big the lift is?
03-04-2013, 06:35 AM
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
03-04-2013, 08:58 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
I finally finished installing my new "upcountry" [Crown HD] leaf pack Sunday night (even had time to take my sweetie out to B&R 31 for a treat in it, so drove it about 6 miles or so). Yeah, four months later. (I'm old; gimmie a break.)
No broken upper shock bolts (they came right out). Used Energy Suspension poly bushings for the springs (I know, I know ...but they were just too easy to not use; I did grease the crap out of 'em at least), the shackles were still good (so were the leaf bushings: if I hate the poly's, I'll figure out how to press those out and use 'em).
After pressing out the metal bushing in the JK Rubi shocks, I had no issues installing 'em.
Anyways. Two questions.
First: I screwed up and got the threaded end on the rear spring bolt on the passenger side facing the wrong way (it should be facing out). Do I need to worry about that? (I was able to torque it down, and it does look high enough to not hit the exhaust in 99% of the driving we're likely to do.)
Second issue ...and more important: I'm now measuring a full 19 inches from axle center to flare. (So I have, what: 1.5 - 2 inches of lift? - I didn't expect that much from this leaf pack!) My shackle angle is ...maybe 66-75 degrees? Something in that range (it's not vertical, at least).
My biggie question is: if I loosen the leaf and shackle bolts, and throw a few hundred pounds back there (to get the shackle angle closer to 45 degrees, under a load), and then torque the bolts back up, would that kind of "pre-loading" of the leafs be beneficial to "ride quality"? Is that worth trying?
...since my front & rear springs & shocks were totally worthless (@151K), and the entire suspension wasn't actually working, I have nothing to compare the ride "quality" to. I can certainly tell a difference now in the rear: the harsh is gone lol.
...I'll post before & after pix when the front coils & shocks are replaced sometime this week. I got new Moog CC782 coils in last Friday (which purportedly give "up to" a 1 inch lift over stock: depending upon where the [height] ends up with the taller springs, I'll order spacers to get the ride level-ish (my lighting is way off with the current butt-high fr-to-rr slope).
...as always, TIA.
No broken upper shock bolts (they came right out). Used Energy Suspension poly bushings for the springs (I know, I know ...but they were just too easy to not use; I did grease the crap out of 'em at least), the shackles were still good (so were the leaf bushings: if I hate the poly's, I'll figure out how to press those out and use 'em).
After pressing out the metal bushing in the JK Rubi shocks, I had no issues installing 'em.
Anyways. Two questions.
First: I screwed up and got the threaded end on the rear spring bolt on the passenger side facing the wrong way (it should be facing out). Do I need to worry about that? (I was able to torque it down, and it does look high enough to not hit the exhaust in 99% of the driving we're likely to do.)
Second issue ...and more important: I'm now measuring a full 19 inches from axle center to flare. (So I have, what: 1.5 - 2 inches of lift? - I didn't expect that much from this leaf pack!) My shackle angle is ...maybe 66-75 degrees? Something in that range (it's not vertical, at least).
My biggie question is: if I loosen the leaf and shackle bolts, and throw a few hundred pounds back there (to get the shackle angle closer to 45 degrees, under a load), and then torque the bolts back up, would that kind of "pre-loading" of the leafs be beneficial to "ride quality"? Is that worth trying?
...since my front & rear springs & shocks were totally worthless (@151K), and the entire suspension wasn't actually working, I have nothing to compare the ride "quality" to. I can certainly tell a difference now in the rear: the harsh is gone lol.
...I'll post before & after pix when the front coils & shocks are replaced sometime this week. I got new Moog CC782 coils in last Friday (which purportedly give "up to" a 1 inch lift over stock: depending upon where the [height] ends up with the taller springs, I'll order spacers to get the ride level-ish (my lighting is way off with the current butt-high fr-to-rr slope).
...as always, TIA.
03-04-2013, 11:27 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Safety goggles required.
Note: Remember, the position of the center pin hole on the leaf, determines front to back re-assembly. (smooth off the edges when done cutting, you'll thank yourself later)
Last edited by BobF; 03-04-2013 at 11:33 AM.
03-04-2013, 12:39 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
I used a grinder with a good cut-off wheel. Just use the weight of the grinder for pressure on the cut. Done in under 15 minutes.
Safety goggles required.
Note: Remember, the position of the center pin hole on the leaf, determines front to back re-assembly. (smooth off the edges when done cutting, you'll thank yourself later)
Safety goggles required.
Note: Remember, the position of the center pin hole on the leaf, determines front to back re-assembly. (smooth off the edges when done cutting, you'll thank yourself later)
03-04-2013, 01:07 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0