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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 Tires General Information and Specs
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All Lift & Tire questions go here!!!
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Jose
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm going to be starting my lift tomorrow morning and in preparation I'm anticipating that the rear upper shock bolt heads will shear, I've been spraying them with pb but I'm not that lucky so I'm planning for worst case scenario. I just need someone to confirm replacement bolt size. I am looking at buying 1/4 20 x 3/4 bolts is that right? And then washers and lock nuts.
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: SouthEast PA
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I don't know much about the size. When you go to remove them, heat em up with a torch and tighten them down a little tiny bit. Like less than an eigth of a turn, then try taking em out. Sometimes the tightening helps break the tension, or stretches it out more or something like that. It helps.
Senior Member
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I feel like getting this lift done is my right of passage so its going to happen either way with a bfh , all 165lbw of my small *** laying into it and a little help from leverage and the jeep gods lol
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane WA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
I'm going to be starting my lift tomorrow morning and in preparation I'm anticipating that the rear upper shock bolt heads will shear, I've been spraying them with pb but I'm not that lucky so I'm planning for worst case scenario. I just need someone to confirm replacement bolt size. I am looking at buying 1/4 20 x 3/4 bolts is that right? And then washers and lock nuts.
My rig isn't rusty either. So all I used was CRC-Freeze Off (magic!) penetrant, and a REALLY long 3/8 drive extension. I didn't force anything; just go slow, and enough pressure to get them moving & then shoot them a second time with the CRC. I didn't break a single bolt that way.
I also anti-seized the threads when I put the new shocks/bolts in. No washers.
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Mine were 5/16 x 1 x 16 tpi if I'm remembering correctly (but they were part #74623-C for grade 8 at Ace Hardware ...dunno how much use that was though); the stock ones are grade 5 (that's why they break: they're probably loctited), so replace them with grade 8's if you get them out clean.
My rig isn't rusty either. So all I used was CRC-Freeze Off (magic!) penetrant, and a REALLY long 3/8 drive extension. I didn't force anything; just go slow, and enough pressure to get them moving & then shoot them a second time with the CRC. I didn't break a single bolt that way.
I also anti-seized the threads when I put the new shocks/bolts in. No washers.
My rig isn't rusty either. So all I used was CRC-Freeze Off (magic!) penetrant, and a REALLY long 3/8 drive extension. I didn't force anything; just go slow, and enough pressure to get them moving & then shoot them a second time with the CRC. I didn't break a single bolt that way.
I also anti-seized the threads when I put the new shocks/bolts in. No washers.
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fort Dix, NJ :(
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4ho
These are right in my budget.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nexen-Road...R15-6/19474025
https://www.treadwright.com/p-6-30-9-50r15-puma-c.aspx
and these are the upper end of my budget
https://www.treadwright.com/p-117-31...m-t-b2b-c.aspx
https://www.treadwright.com/p-9-31x1...arden-a-t.aspx
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nexen-Road...R15-6/19474025
https://www.treadwright.com/p-6-30-9-50r15-puma-c.aspx
and these are the upper end of my budget
https://www.treadwright.com/p-117-31...m-t-b2b-c.aspx
https://www.treadwright.com/p-9-31x1...arden-a-t.aspx
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
i think you need to re-assess your budget. You usually get what you pay for with tires - and for $110, you don't get much.
I'd rather spend $200/tire and have them last 60,000 miles then $100/tire and have them only last 20-30k, and get better traction and performance out of them as well.
I'd rather spend $200/tire and have them last 60,000 miles then $100/tire and have them only last 20-30k, and get better traction and performance out of them as well.
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fort Dix, NJ :(
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4ho
My budget is what it is. and a tire for 100 that last 30k or a tire for 200 that last 60k, in my eyes that equals the same thing.
Senior Member
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I was reading someone took their trailer hitch bar off to install lift kit . I have a factory trailer hitch and all I have to do is drop leafs and I'm looking at it and I see know reason why it has to its not in my way
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane WA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
My man. I have an ace down the road incase. Just as you described it is how I have it in my head. I'm going to bump then with just a bit or torque and keep bumping them until they start moving instead of just leaning into them with a breaker bar and 5' pipe. Where did you score that crc at? Ive seen plenty of crc products but never freeze of..I'm liking the sound of it.
...face it though: when you ain't got a lot of rust to contend with (mine's an AZ/CA car, and has only seen a few days of Washington winter driving: we don't get out much when it snows lol), you're probably not going to have those kinds of issues (or at least to nowhere near the degree).
I feel pretty damn fortunate in my XJ being almost entirely rust-free ...lord knows when I bought it, I was too clueless to have even checked, woot (I just knew guys said the engines could probably go a half million miles, and that and the 4WD was 'nuff to sell the Crown Vic' and buy a 'kee before we moved to eastern Washington).
Good luck w/your leafs. Oh. And it's easier to put on the [new] shackle on the leaf BEFORE you slap the new leafs on (i.e., put the top bolt in last). And the threaded portion of the rear leaf spring bolt goes to the outside (don't ask, sigh).
Last edited by brdavis9; 03-06-2013 at 06:02 PM.
Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Spokane WA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: ERH 4.0L Power Tech I-6 (HO)
My "lift" was less than 2 inches, and the trailer [receiver] hitch wasn't in the way at all.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I read about it on Amazon when I was looking for something else lol. And the guy who reviewed it obviously knew the importance of penetrants, and that F-O was somethin' special. I was at O'Reilly's (or Autozone?) for something else, and asked if they carried it. Yep. Cheaper than Amazon too lol.
...face it though: when you ain't got a lot of rust to contend with (mine's an AZ/CA car, and has only seen a few days of Washington winter driving: we don't get out much when it snows lol), you're probably not going to have those kinds of issues (or at least to nowhere near the degree).
I feel pretty damn fortunate in my XJ being almost entirely rust-free ...lord knows when I bought it, I was too clueless to have even checked, woot (I just knew guys said the engines could probably go a half million miles, and that and the 4WD was 'nuff to sell the Crown Vic' and buy a 'kee before we moved to eastern Washington).
Good luck w/your leafs. Oh. And it's easier to put on the [new] shackle on the leaf BEFORE you slap the new leafs on (i.e., put the top bolt in last). And the threaded portion of the rear leaf spring bolt goes to the outside (don't ask, sigh).
...face it though: when you ain't got a lot of rust to contend with (mine's an AZ/CA car, and has only seen a few days of Washington winter driving: we don't get out much when it snows lol), you're probably not going to have those kinds of issues (or at least to nowhere near the degree).
I feel pretty damn fortunate in my XJ being almost entirely rust-free ...lord knows when I bought it, I was too clueless to have even checked, woot (I just knew guys said the engines could probably go a half million miles, and that and the 4WD was 'nuff to sell the Crown Vic' and buy a 'kee before we moved to eastern Washington).
Good luck w/your leafs. Oh. And it's easier to put on the [new] shackle on the leaf BEFORE you slap the new leafs on (i.e., put the top bolt in last). And the threaded portion of the rear leaf spring bolt goes to the outside (don't ask, sigh).
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: SouthEast PA
Posts: 674
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yay should be a fun day then. I'm going to pick up my buddies compressor and small snap on impact. Going to set it to lowest setting and run it barely off 80 psi and try giving a few taps to the trigger and see if one rear upper shock bolt will play nice.. I think its my best chance with the impact tapping action compared to straight constant torque with a breaker bar.