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Old 02-11-2013, 12:51 PM
  #2686  
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Originally Posted by 99superjeep01
You can get band clamps at any auto parts store, so no waiting on or paying for shipping. As long as you have the right I.d. then you're fine.
TY.

...that "inside diameter" was key, as it turned out. For the rear, you really want the 2.25 ID band clamp (use the above link for the Dynomax 33229, but I picked a generic one up locally ...and only Napa had the 2.25 ID size in stock).

For the front, you need a 2.5 ID ...and O'Reilly's had that size, but I didn't buy it cuz I mis-remembered (at my age, a common occurrence lol) the front was larger. So I put the factory u-bolt on (I wasn't going to make another trip down the hill to O'Reilly for the 2.5 at that point: tired, dirty & done), as the front had been a grind-and-peel job anyways (not a big deal to get it off).

Here's what it looked like when done:

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...and as it started right up, and ran as great as it always has (we've owned it about a year-and-a-half now), plus it was a lot quieter, I was pretty satisfied.

We'll know later today/this week whether our dismal 14mpg of late has improved (the best we've ever got was about 16-17mpg unloaded on a 2 hour plus freeway jaunt); I kind of expect it to (although I'm just happy that the embarrassing exhaust banging is gone lol).

The rusty bolts were no big deal getting off (this was originally an Arizona XJ that moved to CA for most of its life, and though it lives in WA now, extensive rust hasn't really had any time to become an issue ...and I hose down the underside pretty regular, trying to keep it that way). The sensor came out pretty easy too: ran the engine for about 20 minutes, and used a 7/8 in open end wrench. Bingo! - came right out. The front took a bit of effort, but no worse than expected. The rear, because the outside muffler pipe had been indented by the u-bolt, was a stink-a-rooney. A 2 1/2 lb sledge hammer and over an hour of whacking & cursing (whack-curse, whack-curse, rest, repeat) finally got the bloody thing extracted.

Parts used:

1.
Magnaflow 23226 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter Magnaflow 23226 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter
(non-CARB, as we're in WA).
2.
Dynomax 33229 2.25 inch band clamp Dynomax 33229 2.25 inch band clamp
for the rear connection. NOTE: I ended up cutting about 3/4 of an inch off the rear of the new cat', and another 1 1/2 inch off the u-bolt indented front of the muffler ...it was a huge PITA to hammer the old cat' out of the muffler (damn I hate u-bolts). YMMV.
3. Dynomax 35979 2.5 inch band clamp for the front connection (I ended up using the old factory u-bolt, but this is the one you'd want to pre-purchase to replace the front u-bolt).
4.
Permatex 81160 High-Temp red RTV silicon gasket Permatex 81160 High-Temp red RTV silicon gasket
(liberally applied, fr & rr).
5. Permatex 81343 anti-seize lubricant (on the sensor threads).

...list & links provided just in case anyone with a factory 96 bolt-together exhaust would like a cat' shopping list, lol.

...I posted the above pix & most of the parts in the CF "What did you today ..." thread earlier this morning, too.
Old 02-12-2013, 10:40 AM
  #2687  
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New topic. My '95 4.0L XJ has a cracked manifold. Do I need to pay more than $250 for one or will the lower priced ones just crack too? Seems to be a common problem where the 2 large pipes join.
Old 02-12-2013, 10:56 AM
  #2688  
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I just ordered an apn header for mine. Check out the reviews. I've yet to find a bad one.
Old 02-12-2013, 03:31 PM
  #2689  
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Filed an insurance claim for the Cherokee that had the cat cut off by some meth heads.

They damaged the front pipe as well, which seems to be ridiculously expensive because it's a 2000. (I refuse to put the Walker front pipe on the truck.)


Are there any FULL exhaust systems available for these things? Including a header? Insurance is likely to end up paying for the whole thing, so i may as well put something nice on there, as well as staying away from OEM to lessen my chances of the cat getting stolen again.
Old 02-12-2013, 04:59 PM
  #2690  
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What's it mean if you can smell something from the exhaust? Right by the muffler around where it exits
Old 02-12-2013, 05:02 PM
  #2691  
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
What's it mean if you can smell something from the exhaust? Right by the muffler around where it exits

Means your truck is probably running.
Old 02-12-2013, 05:04 PM
  #2692  
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Originally Posted by concealer404

Means your truck is probably running.
Lolol no I mean a very bad smell I can't even describe it, maybe something burning?b
Old 02-12-2013, 05:05 PM
  #2693  
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Originally Posted by concealer404

Means your truck is probably running.
Oh and actually it was after I turned it off
Old 02-12-2013, 05:12 PM
  #2694  
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You're gonna have to describe it if we are to help you. :P

Is it smoking at all?
Old 02-12-2013, 06:02 PM
  #2695  
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4

Lolol no I mean a very bad smell I can't even describe it, maybe something burning?b
I've heard of cats stinking... Is it a rotten egg smell?
Old 02-12-2013, 06:45 PM
  #2696  
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Originally Posted by austinjoe13

I've heard of cats stinking... Is it a rotten egg smell?
I have smelled them like that before the good ol smell of rotten eggs or sulfur
Old 02-12-2013, 08:31 PM
  #2697  
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Here's a link to my exhaust vid filmed with my gopro.
Old 02-12-2013, 08:35 PM
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Another one.
Old 02-13-2013, 06:50 AM
  #2699  
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Originally Posted by austinjoe13

I've heard of cats stinking... Is it a rotten egg smell?
Lol. Stinky cat...
Old 02-13-2013, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 99superjeep01
Lol. Stinky cat...
lol. That rotten egg smell is sulfur. Idk what it means, but a new cat won't stink.


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