Axle swap advice needed
#1
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 280
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From: Portland, OR
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Axle swap advice needed
My end goal is 35-37" on my XJ.
I've already bought a bare Ford 8.8 and a swap kit. However I feel like I'd rather get a better axle setup and not put money into the Dana 30 and the 8.8 that is more narrow.
I just found a great deal on a HP D44 and a Ford 9". However the Ford 9" with the tube wall thickness of ~.177-188" kind of scares me off of it.
Curious of others $.02
I've already bought a bare Ford 8.8 and a swap kit. However I feel like I'd rather get a better axle setup and not put money into the Dana 30 and the 8.8 that is more narrow.
I just found a great deal on a HP D44 and a Ford 9". However the Ford 9" with the tube wall thickness of ~.177-188" kind of scares me off of it.
Curious of others $.02
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
for up to 35s, I wouldn't swap the axles, at least not the front one. if it were me, getting a 44 for the front would be a waste of time and I'd rather build the 30.
for the rear, unless you have a dana 35, I wouldn't swap it either, but since you already have the 8.8, it's a perfectly good upgrade, slightly better than a 44, and I would use that.
that being said, if you know you'll want bigger eventually, then by all means get new axles now to make sure you don't do the job twice, but like I said, if it were me and 35s were my end goal, I'd build my d30 and 8.25, or if I had a 35, swap the 8.8 in its place and build that axle.
for the rear, unless you have a dana 35, I wouldn't swap it either, but since you already have the 8.8, it's a perfectly good upgrade, slightly better than a 44, and I would use that.
that being said, if you know you'll want bigger eventually, then by all means get new axles now to make sure you don't do the job twice, but like I said, if it were me and 35s were my end goal, I'd build my d30 and 8.25, or if I had a 35, swap the 8.8 in its place and build that axle.
#3
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 280
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From: Portland, OR
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Currently I have the Dana 35 in the rear. I'm running 33's right now, but know I could run 35's fairly easily. I feel like the 37's would be the ultimate goal. A Dana 60 would kill my clearance.
44 up front is kind of a waste IMO, other than stronger to gear lower.
I'm trying to keep this freeway friendly vehicle, matching lug patterns, and widths.
44 up front is kind of a waste IMO, other than stronger to gear lower.
I'm trying to keep this freeway friendly vehicle, matching lug patterns, and widths.
#4
35's are fine on a d30 & 8.8 , i run 35's on a 30 & 8.25 however i built both up to heavy duty . the front is sleeved, trussed , gussets w/ alloy shafts & e-locker 4.56 , rear alloy shafts & a detroit locker. i dont abuse it off road but i run lots of rough stuff, no breakage in 3 yrs. of wheelin it. imo 37' are just too much tire on a xj. unless its a off road only rig. then you need lots more then just bigger axles. even on road 37's mean lots of work and money to make safe & driveable. much better brakes are needed for one.
#5
37s are the limits for built half ton axles so even a dana 44 front would be pushing it.I would stick to 35s and your 8.8/dana 30 or go 1 ton axles.And the 8.8 being too narrow http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-117...nator-kit.html you gain a inch pre side get better axles and lose the c clips.
#6
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,010
Likes: 261
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
37s are the limits for built half ton axles so even a dana 44 front would be pushing it.I would stick to 35s and your 8.8/dana 30 or go 1 ton axles.And the 8.8 being too narrow http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-117...nator-kit.html you gain a inch pre side get better axles and lose the c clips.
#7
It really depends on how you're going to wheel it. If you're doing trail rides and slow easy stuff that combo can handle a 35. If you do fast stuff or rock stuff then even for a 35 I'd suggest tons. I built that exact combo, 30/8.8, with the goal of wheeling on 35's. Once done I slapped some true to size 33's under and was completely satisfied. If your goal is 37's though then I wouldn't consider anything except tons. They'll be just as much to build as a set of 44 axles.
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#8
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 280
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From: Portland, OR
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
37s are the limits for built half ton axles so even a dana 44 front would be pushing it.I would stick to 35s and your 8.8/dana 30 or go 1 ton axles.And the 8.8 being too narrow http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-117...nator-kit.html you gain a inch pre side get better axles and lose the c clips.
It really depends on how you're going to wheel it. If you're doing trail rides and slow easy stuff that combo can handle a 35. If you do fast stuff or rock stuff then even for a 35 I'd suggest tons. I built that exact combo, 30/8.8, with the goal of wheeling on 35's. Once done I slapped some true to size 33's under and was completely satisfied. If your goal is 37's though then I wouldn't consider anything except tons. They'll be just as much to build as a set of 44 axles.
My 33's are fairly true to size at 32.8"
Last edited by indeepwithajeep; 05-10-2016 at 12:59 PM.
#9
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the last time I checked, there are no chromo shafts for the 8.8 they only make an alloy upgrade. I say why not. The 8.8 is a killer axle and worth a few dollars in upgrades
I don't think I'd ever recommend someone swap 1 tons under an XJ unless they are fully prepared to go all the way down the rabbit hole. take 2 jeep XJ's and build them identical except 1 has 35's and the other has 37's and bigger axles, they'll both go through the same obstacles. the difference will come down to driver skill, tire size really doesn't matter, it's everything around the tires that matters.
build your D30/8.8. You will have a lot of fun following $30,000 jeep wranglers and out wheeling them
#10
the last time I checked, there are no chromo shafts for the 8.8 they only make an alloy upgrade. I say why not. The 8.8 is a killer axle and worth a few dollars in upgrades I don't think I'd ever recommend someone swap 1 tons under an XJ unless they are fully prepared to go all the way down the rabbit hole. take 2 jeep XJ's and build them identical except 1 has 35's and the other has 37's and bigger axles, they'll both go through the same obstacles. the difference will come down to driver skill, tire size really doesn't matter, it's everything around the tires that matters. build your D30/8.8. You will have a lot of fun following $30,000 jeep wranglers and out wheeling them
#11
The yukon c clip eliminator for the explorer 8.8 does have 4340 Chromoly shafts,And honestly if you can break that axle your trying really hard or have tires way bigger then the 8.8 can handle.Atoms is right a lot of it is driver skill and thinking before you act.The local off road park i have seen built rigs get stuck in places most half way built ones go over like it was nothing.A xj on 33s or 35s with maybe a 5 inch lift and lockers can be a monster off road.It has a almost prefect wheel base and weights just enough to me.
#12
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 43
From: Gainesville GA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm as amazed as they are.
I am not not easy on the axles & bring spare shafts just in case.
#13
The only thing that kind of sucks about the c-clip removal kit is you need to run chromo shafts. I liked the idea of cheap shafts found at every junkyard. Plus they're pretty damn strong in factory forum.
I do rocks but I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal. Although I'm not trying to getvto the point of rollovers. I'm also trying to keep it freeway friendly. Seems like if it's setup right you won't have an issue. Or throw in some balancing beads if your not able to get the tire balanced.
My 33's are fairly true to size at 32.8"
I do rocks but I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal. Although I'm not trying to getvto the point of rollovers. I'm also trying to keep it freeway friendly. Seems like if it's setup right you won't have an issue. Or throw in some balancing beads if your not able to get the tire balanced.
My 33's are fairly true to size at 32.8"
#15
The only thing that kind of sucks about the c-clip removal kit is you need to run chromo shafts. I liked the idea of cheap shafts found at every junkyard. Plus they're pretty damn strong in factory forum.
I do rocks but I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal. Although I'm not trying to getvto the point of rollovers. I'm also trying to keep it freeway friendly. Seems like if it's setup right you won't have an issue. Or throw in some balancing beads if your not able to get the tire balanced.
My 33's are fairly true to size at 32.8"
I do rocks but I'm pretty easy on the skinny pedal. Although I'm not trying to getvto the point of rollovers. I'm also trying to keep it freeway friendly. Seems like if it's setup right you won't have an issue. Or throw in some balancing beads if your not able to get the tire balanced.
My 33's are fairly true to size at 32.8"
Ha Haa , nice rig ! I'm running an 8.8 in this one fixing to swap in a HP 30 trussed swap in 4.88s and 33s . I've got 4.10s and 31s now . <br/>I wouldn't worry about the c clips the caliper brackets will keep you together enough to get off the trail . Mines been together for 3 yrs now and I drive it every day .