Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I have a 1992 Cherokee Laredo with a 4.0 HO straight 6 and a 5 speed manual. Has a 4 inch lift running 33's. D35 rear. D30 front. I wanna lock the rear but I've read a lot that a d35 is way to weak for a locker. I found a ten factory super 35 kit that has 30 spline chromolly axle shafts and comes with a choice of Detroit locker or arb air locker. Was wondering if that would be a good way to go or if I should just swap it with a Dana 44 out of an older jeep. I wanna run 35 inch tires maybe 37's. I need help. Here's a picture of my Cherokee

 

Its cheaper to pick up a 29 spline 8.25 from a '97+ model. Very common axle and as strong as a D44. 37s might be the limit on the 8.25/44 but if you haven't had any issues so far with the turdy5 then you should be fine. I see you're not trimmed, so you're not going over anything that requires much stress on parts, unless you go mud bogging. Unless you want to start going on some more challenging trails then you'll need to trim the fenders and I would recommend building a Ford 8.8 if you're going to 37s.

 

I agree, skip the super 35 idea. I would go for an 8.8 if you ever plan on going 37s.

 

If you can stick with 35's, i would run the 8.25. If not, go with the 8.8

 

35's are doable with the 29 spline Chy 8.25 I run them but don't beat it to death either, its as capable as a D44 just not as many aftermarket parts for it.


If you want 37's or higher I guess it all depends if you can afford all the other extra's that go along with them. A big Dana would be a better choice for large tires than the ford 8.8 being all take quite a bit of mods.

 

Sounds like an 8.25 is the way to go.. If I swap it with a Chrysler 8.25 will it be bolt on or am I Ganna have to cut and trim and fabricate? If so how much fabrication would be involved? It is my daily driver for right now so I need to be able to do it within a weekend maybe three days or so. I am a stainless steel fabricator so cutting and trimming and welding won't be an issue for me.

 

It's a direct bolt in. Since you are lifted the longer rear driveshaft that you have should work, the 8.25 has a longer housing. You may have vibrations if you are still slip yoked in the rear or have to play with shims if you have it shimmed for an SYE. I did the swap with a couple buddies in an hour and the hardest part was getting the old brake hose off when I put in a longer one. You'll also need new U Bolts, as the tube diameter is larger, should lift you up 1/4" as well.

 

So a 1997 + Cherokee of any trim style, that 8.25 will bolt on to my 1992 Cherokee Laredo? Could you give me a parts list of what you guys did and used please. It would be very helpful

 

Any without abs. 3" ubolts and new spring plates are about all you need.

 

Sweet! Thank you! I'm Ganna look into it! What should I do to the front axle if I swap the rear? To make it strong and stable also

 

I do believe you should have a non-vacuum HP30, if so then you're fine up to 35" tires. You have a high pinion, just not sure about the 2 piece axle, you can tell if you have wires going to the passenger side of the axle. At worse then, you can swap over with a kit and pick up some JY/Craiglist one piece axle shaft. You can upgrade your axle shafts as well if you go over 35s or just want a piece of mind.

 

A kit as in a axle shaft kit? Like the super 35 but for a d30? Or a whole new axle?

 

It's a kit to either make the electric actuated switch to cable so you won't have to worry about if the switch is working. Again, that is only if you have that axle. I believe you don't, don't want to overload you with information. Take a picture of your front axle and we can help tell you what kind of D30 you have.

 

92 does not have the cad. It is not electrically operated but vacuum.

 

I'm at work right now. I have a break in an hour and I will take a picture of the front axle. I would like to have the front axle just as strong maybe a tad bit less than the rear.