Bar Pin Elininators + Bilstein 5100 Vulcanized Bar Pins
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Bar Pin Elininators + Bilstein 5100 Vulcanized Bar Pins
Ok, so the bar pin that come pre-installed in the Bilstein 5100 is definitely vulcanized (rubber bushing is formed around the bar pin).
Spent about 2 or 3 hours trying g to get the god damn thing out with a vice, with a ball joint press, with heat, etc.
I honestly don't think that the bar pin can feasibly be removed from the bushing. I am going to give it another go on Thursday at a buddies shop, with a Harbor Freight shop press and see if I can force the pin out, without the bushing popping out.
My question is this;
Is the shock bushing a part I can find at the local parts store? Better yet, does anyone have a part number that would work?
If I can't get the bar pin out, and if I can't get the bushing at a local parts store, I might need to lug my a$$ to 4Wheel parts and see if they have anything that will fit.
And before anyone mentions it, I would really really really prefer to eliminate the bar pin entirely. I even went through the trouble of repacing my current bushings and bar pins, and the pin STILL comes off all the time.
I already have brand new Bilstein 5100s for the rear, and Rocky Road BPEs. They are pretty beefy which I was not expecting for the low price. The welds on both sides of each tab look great, and I love how it preloads the bushings so they can't slip off!
Spent about 2 or 3 hours trying g to get the god damn thing out with a vice, with a ball joint press, with heat, etc.
I honestly don't think that the bar pin can feasibly be removed from the bushing. I am going to give it another go on Thursday at a buddies shop, with a Harbor Freight shop press and see if I can force the pin out, without the bushing popping out.
My question is this;
Is the shock bushing a part I can find at the local parts store? Better yet, does anyone have a part number that would work?
If I can't get the bar pin out, and if I can't get the bushing at a local parts store, I might need to lug my a$$ to 4Wheel parts and see if they have anything that will fit.
And before anyone mentions it, I would really really really prefer to eliminate the bar pin entirely. I even went through the trouble of repacing my current bushings and bar pins, and the pin STILL comes off all the time.
I already have brand new Bilstein 5100s for the rear, and Rocky Road BPEs. They are pretty beefy which I was not expecting for the low price. The welds on both sides of each tab look great, and I love how it preloads the bushings so they can't slip off!
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makros (10-23-2024)
#3
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Aah, so it is possible! Thank you for the picture, very helpful
Were you able to press the pin out without cutting it first?
I am going to try a big c-clamp like you have, the u joint press i had was not really working for me (the inserts were either too large or small)
#4
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I just went through this same situation, twice!
I just took a drill and drill out the bushing in a couple places, then pulled it out with a pair of vice-grips. The replacement bushings are pretty easy to find. Usually O'Reilly's will have them in stock. Just measure up the width and the depth and get a set of Energy bushings, like this. They pop in with your fingers. Tough to get out, though!
I just took a drill and drill out the bushing in a couple places, then pulled it out with a pair of vice-grips. The replacement bushings are pretty easy to find. Usually O'Reilly's will have them in stock. Just measure up the width and the depth and get a set of Energy bushings, like this. They pop in with your fingers. Tough to get out, though!
#5
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I just went through this same situation, twice!
I just took a drill and drill out the bushing in a couple places, then pulled it out with a pair of vice-grips. The replacement bushings are pretty easy to find. Usually O'Reilly's will have them in stock. Just measure up the width and the depth and get a set of Energy bushings, like this. They pop in with your fingers. Tough to get out, though!
I just took a drill and drill out the bushing in a couple places, then pulled it out with a pair of vice-grips. The replacement bushings are pretty easy to find. Usually O'Reilly's will have them in stock. Just measure up the width and the depth and get a set of Energy bushings, like this. They pop in with your fingers. Tough to get out, though!
I have a 20-ton shop press that I am going to try on Thursday night (hopefully). If the bar pin doesn't come out I should be able to get the bushing out without too much hassle.
Thanks for the advice guys, really appreciate it!!
#7
Are the Bilstein vulcanized bar pins better than an oem type? When I knew I was going Bilstein I sold all my JKS BPE's because I heard the Bilstein shocks really don't need them.
Any truth to this? Or do they still give you the clunk noise?
Any truth to this? Or do they still give you the clunk noise?
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#8
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I hate bar pins with so much passion that I won't even consider using them after all the trouble they have given me.
I also want the extra 1" of downtravel to help the rear flex out more so I kind of need to use the spacers.
Hindsight I should have just ordered shocks without bar pins in them, but live and learn...
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
#10
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
It's a good effort to fix a ****ty design, but it doesn't change the fact that it is a ****ty design. There is nothing but pressure stopping the bar pin from sliding out of the bushing, which seems even more idiotic because it is a Jeep and supposed to be designed for off road and "harsh" conditions. What did they expect to happen after 20K miles of moderate wheeling?? Did they think a rubber bushing would be impervious to changing shape over time, while supporting 3000lbs of furious Cherokee? Madness.
For that reason alone I do not want bar pins anywhere on my rig. I literally want to drive off a cliff because of how much they knock around, it is unbearable.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 12-03-2015 at 10:51 PM.
#12
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
If using Bar Pin Elininators, subtract 1" from your measurements.
Also, for anyone interested - I spent about an hour last night at my buddies shop trying to get the bushing separated from the pin. The ONLY thing that was effective was heating the bar pin, which ruined the bushing. No matter what combo of Sockets and pressure, the bushing and pin stayed fused, even as the busing was under the pressure of a 20-ton hydraulic press.
In the end I pressed the pin and bushing out as one piece, which took about 2 minutes. I ended up clear-coating the shocks because they are too damn pretty to let rust.
#13
There is a Bilstein 5100 application guide floating around the internet. You could match another set of bar-pinless shocks but it would probably be better to flex your rig out and measure to make sure you properly match your shocks to your lift.
If using Bar Pin Elininators, subtract 1" from your measurements.
Also, for anyone interested - I spent about an hour last night at my buddies shop trying to get the bushing separated from the pin. The ONLY thing that was effective was heating the bar pin, which ruined the bushing. No matter what combo of Sockets and pressure, the bushing and pin stayed fused, even as the busing was under the pressure of a 20-ton hydraulic press.
In the end I pressed the pin and bushing out as one piece, which took about 2 minutes. I ended up clear-coating the shocks because they are too damn pretty to let rust.
If using Bar Pin Elininators, subtract 1" from your measurements.
Also, for anyone interested - I spent about an hour last night at my buddies shop trying to get the bushing separated from the pin. The ONLY thing that was effective was heating the bar pin, which ruined the bushing. No matter what combo of Sockets and pressure, the bushing and pin stayed fused, even as the busing was under the pressure of a 20-ton hydraulic press.
In the end I pressed the pin and bushing out as one piece, which took about 2 minutes. I ended up clear-coating the shocks because they are too damn pretty to let rust.