Correct shocks for 1-3/4 inch lift XJ Cherokee
#1
Correct shocks for 1-3/4 inch lift XJ Cherokee
Just picked up 1-3/4 inch lift rear leaf springs and 1-3/4 inch front spacers from a crown parts dealer. Now I need to determine which shocks I should use. Should I use special shocks for lifted XJs or can I use stock shocks? I'm getting the impression that shocks for lifted XJs are for 2-1/2 or 3 inch lift and above. Last night I bought a full set of Monroe Sensa-Tracs 37083 & 37027. Don't know if I should use these on a 1-3/4 lifted Cherokee. Looking to find shocks that give a smooth, not to firm ride and below $60 each. This Cherokee is for daily driver use.
Are there front and rear shock spacers available for Cherokees with a smaller than 2 inch lift?
My Jeep....1999 Cherokee with 235-75-15 tires.
Are there front and rear shock spacers available for Cherokees with a smaller than 2 inch lift?
My Jeep....1999 Cherokee with 235-75-15 tires.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 603
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From: Hacienda Heights
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I went through this recently and have the same size tires. Stock length will work fine, longer will increase wheel travel.
I wanted to maximize travel so I dug through my shock collection and found some NOS Bilsteins for the front and did a fair bit of modifying to fit them. My front shocks are a hair too long and will bottom if I hit hard and droop goes to the limit of the arms binding so I'll be shortening them a bit more if I can. The rears gave quite a bit of travel, but I went ahead and put some short spacers on the top mount to maximize droop. If you want to go longer you'll have to measure how much you can fit without them bottoming. In the front it's fairly easy if the shocks don't have covers, measure the free length of shock and the distance to the bump stops. Of course the rubber is compressible so you have to leave a little extra, something I didn't account for enough. On the rear it's harder because the shocks aren't vertical. I unbolted the bottom mounts and compressed them straight up and compared that to the bump stop clearance to make sure they wouldn't bottom.
For something really close to stock with no fancy parts it flexes like mad and goes places most people don't think it can. On road it rides nice and I can fly across dips comfortably.
I wanted to maximize travel so I dug through my shock collection and found some NOS Bilsteins for the front and did a fair bit of modifying to fit them. My front shocks are a hair too long and will bottom if I hit hard and droop goes to the limit of the arms binding so I'll be shortening them a bit more if I can. The rears gave quite a bit of travel, but I went ahead and put some short spacers on the top mount to maximize droop. If you want to go longer you'll have to measure how much you can fit without them bottoming. In the front it's fairly easy if the shocks don't have covers, measure the free length of shock and the distance to the bump stops. Of course the rubber is compressible so you have to leave a little extra, something I didn't account for enough. On the rear it's harder because the shocks aren't vertical. I unbolted the bottom mounts and compressed them straight up and compared that to the bump stop clearance to make sure they wouldn't bottom.
For something really close to stock with no fancy parts it flexes like mad and goes places most people don't think it can. On road it rides nice and I can fly across dips comfortably.
Last edited by '90Cherokee; 10-04-2015 at 10:34 PM.
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