Following the instructions from Ditch The Prop Rod thread, I did same today. Used the suggested 92-94 Infinity Q45 hood struts. $7 each at PnP jy. Very easy project. From these pics you can see I did things just a bit different than original thread. The upper ball joint is mounted on the inside of the hood hinge, rather than the outboard side. This allowed the ball not to interfere with the hood hinge bolts.
And the forward end of the strut is mounted directly to the XJ inner fender wall. No bracket is used for mounting. I just drilled a hole, and put the threaded end of the ball stud through. Then from underneath I attached the nut on a big fender washer. Actually, I used the small Infinity bracket with the captive nut. The bracket acted like a self locking wrench on the nut when I tightened the hex on the ball stud from the top side. The only hassle is pealing back the plastic inner fender liner to reach the threads on the stud. About 4 or 5 of those plastic pins have to be pried out of the fender liner above the tire to do this. But not that big a deal. Its all flexy under there. Took a third hand to hold the liner back and get the nut started.
Hood will hold up with one strut. But a little sketchy in the breeze, so I mounted the second one.
Also, I was concerned that the left strut would clear the ABS plumbing. It does. No problem.
Easy project and I highly recommend it. Took about 2 hours. Just remember to get the nuts you need at the hardware store first, as the ball stud nuts are captive to the brackets.

 

Nice! Glad my thread was of some value.

I used the Infinity bracket on the inner fender side just b/c that hood weight is significant and the stress it puts on the sheetmetal down there is notable.

Be happy that you are one of the few who have an assisted opening hood that won't tear the hardware our of the underside of your hood skin.

 

I totally agree. When I first inquired about doing the project the stress loading was my big quesiton.

Because of the limited room around the computer mount I decided to just use the ball stud through the inner fender wall. That metal seems nearly twice the thickness of any outer sheet metal on the car, so I figured if I used some good fender washers on the nut side I might get away with load support and spread adequate for the job. Time will tell. Also, the stud is mounted a bit closer to the hinge than your project. Again, it was to clear the computer mount on the inner fender wall.

I am a bit concerned about the load at the hood-to-hinge contact. Seems to crank a bit on closing. Yours OK so far?

 

mine has been going strong (on the same tired original Nissan struts) since 2011 without a hitch. I keep thinking those 20 year old struts must need replacing by now but they're still holding it up fine. No deformation to my hinge or inner finder connection either.

Still surprises mechanics and fellow XJ owners alike when I toss the hood up without a concern to grab a prop; lol.

 

What do you think about the rugged ridge kit?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00524LW1U

90 bucks but for the average joe it seems like a good option.

 

The stock liftgate struts also will work for the hoodlift. Old ones work best, new is too strong.

 

^^ requires self-tapping screws in your hood skin... not a fan.

It's all about how you orient the strut though. This is a much more reliable way for collapsing a freshly charged gas strut.

 

I was concerned about sheet-metal screws too. I drilled out the bracket for a larger screw and it has been almost 3 years now and has been very reliable.. It opens softly once lifted 4" and holds hood open securely. No slop.
I also used a few rivets on one side as a test, holding up good. Have often had the hood open for days at a time.
In the high-wind environment here, I thought the longer struts with proper placement would be more supportive. I was worried about how the 'kits' mount close to the hinge (like the GrandCherokee). Anyway, there's more than one way to open a hood...
Brackets can be welded on if needed.

 

how far down from the firewall did yall mount the bracket or put in the ball screw?

 

I can get a kit to you for $59
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f73/ho...ut-kit-189080/

 

That's a great option because just the zinc-plated or painted ball-stud mounts cost like $20 for 4. And you have proven geometry to make it easy for the installer. No guesswork.

 

I'm gearing up to do this mod. Just wondering which strut configuration is best. Verticle, like Steve's or horizontal, like Happy's. I've read good things about both. Is it just a preference?

 

im doing this mod too i like happytrails idea looks like the hood is open up more and where they mounted at look pretty sturdy spot. hitting the jy to see if i can find good hood shocks off Q45. if i can't find any probably going to order from tony ss. im hating my jeep hood prop rod.

 

Keep in mind, most all struts have different PSI ratings. Generally the shorter struts have higher psi because they are placed where mechanical advantage is lower (near the hinge) and must use more force to open.
The longer struts (from liftgate 1996 XJ) have the mechanical advantage, think 'levers'.
Experiment,try opening the hood by lifting near the hinge from the side, probably impossible . Now try opening from mid-point on hood. Tough but requires much less force. This force transfers into the attachment points and fasteners.
As for the long ones, if one strut is removed the second still holds the hood up. This was my main concern, not having the hood fall on me when wrenching. I feel safe now and the hood opens to it maximum without 'topping-out'.

 

I placed the fender wall stud as close to the computer mount as possible and still have drilling and wrenching room. That was the only criteria I used. The right side was located to match. I don't have measurements, but the pics will give you a good idea. Orient according to the other hardware and holes you see in the pics. Anywhere within a half inch will be pretty much the same. Look carefully at the hinge holes, as you need nut room around the hood hinge bolts. I got the first try wrong, as you can see by the unused hole.

And, yes, the hood on my project goes further up that others. I think I maxxed out the hinge range with the stud location. The struts are slightly compressed in the full open position.