DIY Heim joint steering?
#1
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
DIY Heim joint steering?
Hey guys im making my own steering and I think i want to use heim joints. im just confused on what size i need and if i need misalignment spacers and all of that because i honestly dont know. ive read and read and read but no one has a parts list.
please help
please help
#3
heres a parts list, you can buy it from them too. Worth it to me rather than tracking down all the pieces individually and shipping from multiple places. and you can regularly find 10% to 20% discounts from ruffstuff if you search the vendors section.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/34STEER.html
7/8" heim version is only 10 bucks more
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/78STEER.html
you will just have to buy the nuts and bolts (grade 8 only, and nylock nuts)
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/34STEER.html
7/8" heim version is only 10 bucks more
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/78STEER.html
you will just have to buy the nuts and bolts (grade 8 only, and nylock nuts)
#4
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
heres a parts list, you can buy it from them too. Worth it to me rather than tracking down all the pieces individually and shipping from multiple places. and you can regularly find 10% to 20% discounts from ruffstuff if you search the vendors section.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/34STEER.html
7/8" heim version is only 10 bucks more
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/78STEER.html
you will just have to buy the nuts and bolts (grade 8 only, and nylock nuts)
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/34STEER.html
7/8" heim version is only 10 bucks more
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/78STEER.html
you will just have to buy the nuts and bolts (grade 8 only, and nylock nuts)
Kris Froehlich
#5
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh and cherokeeforum members get 10 percent off...
http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartsto...teer_p_11.html
http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartsto...teer_p_11.html
#6
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Or for 90 more dollars we sell the heim setup complete, already the right length for your application and ready to install. We also use the 7/8s ruffstuff heims, not 3/4". As well as solid steel hex drilled and threaded for the heims instead of 1/4" wall tube with a weld in bung.
Kris Froehlich
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I used 3/4 and mine is basically an inverted T design with misalignment only at the pitman arm. If you put the tie rod and drag link at the knuckle you'll need misalignments due to the angle on the drag link.
#9
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Ya that's what I'm going to order. Now do I put the tie rod under the knuckle and then the draglink on top? If so can I keep the sway bar links or do I need to cut them off
#10
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 0
From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Use safety misalignment spacers on the drag link, and make sure to use washers larger than the ID of the heim body so that if one should fail it cant fall off.
List looks good though. 3/4x5/8 for tie rod. 3/4 for drag link with safety misalignment spacers. Get the 3/4 heim set like the other set too, cheaper to get it all together. If not dont forget the jamb nuts. They also have hex inserts now which is nice for adjusting the tie rod.
List looks good though. 3/4x5/8 for tie rod. 3/4 for drag link with safety misalignment spacers. Get the 3/4 heim set like the other set too, cheaper to get it all together. If not dont forget the jamb nuts. They also have hex inserts now which is nice for adjusting the tie rod.
#11
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Use safety misalignment spacers on the drag link, and make sure to use washers larger than the ID of the heim body so that if one should fail it cant fall off.
List looks good though. 3/4x5/8 for tie rod. 3/4 for drag link with safety misalignment spacers. Get the 3/4 heim set like the other set too, cheaper to get it all together. If not dont forget the jamb nuts. They also have hex inserts now which is nice for adjusting the tie rod.
List looks good though. 3/4x5/8 for tie rod. 3/4 for drag link with safety misalignment spacers. Get the 3/4 heim set like the other set too, cheaper to get it all together. If not dont forget the jamb nuts. They also have hex inserts now which is nice for adjusting the tie rod.
#12
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
So I've been searching pics of the heim joint steering and some people have the tie rod under the knuckle and the drag link over the knuckle and some have them both on top. What one do I do? Also would the heim joint go below or above the pitman arm?
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 0
From: Soddy Daisy TN
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Mounting above or below the knuckle depends on preference and room. Some wheels won't clear both on top and you also put a good bit of stress on the bolt. And mount on the bottom of the pitman arm just like stock. Take the arm off to drill it out so you get it right and go slow on it and the knuckles so you don't end up beating out broken drill bits.
#15
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,390
Likes: 3
From: Chicago IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straigh 6
Mounting above or below the knuckle depends on preference and room. Some wheels won't clear both on top and you also put a good bit of stress on the bolt. And mount on the bottom of the pitman arm just like stock. Take the arm off to drill it out so you get it right and go slow on it and the knuckles so you don't end up beating out broken drill bits.