Drop Pitman Arm & Drop Track bar Bracket (Bump Steer??'s)
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 95
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drop Pitman Arm & Drop Track bar Bracket (Bump Steer??'s)
Hey all - So im reading a some very conflicting things on the subject. I recently did a 4.5 RC lift with an adjustable track bar. I replaced all the steering assembly components when I did the lift. Although the lift has not fully settled I have had it aligned. I still have some fairly bad bump steer issues that are really driving me nutz! I've read and I've been told that I need a dpa. But im also reading if I do that Ill need a drop track bar bracket as well. AND im also reading that I wont need any of this if I have an adjustable track bar, and its all about that adjustment.
So im just looking for some clarification on the subject. I know that the steering can and should be better than Im experiencing now, but after searching for threads on the subject, im not sure what direction to turn?
Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
So im just looking for some clarification on the subject. I know that the steering can and should be better than Im experiencing now, but after searching for threads on the subject, im not sure what direction to turn?
Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 3
From: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Drop Pit Arm will help, also could do a OTK or flip kit, to solve the bump steer. Could also be incorrect Caster setting. DO NOT add a DROP bracket to the trackbar, this increases the potential for DEATH WOBBLE.
#3
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 227
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From: Tell City, IN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you drop the trackbar bracket, you would have to drop your pitman arm even further, to keep your steering angles correct. I have 4" of lift, and i found a v8 pitman arm helped tons with my bumpsteer. It provides 1" of drop.
#4
I'm running a 1" drop pitman and a double shear track bar (is about a 3/4" drop). The idea is very simple. Make sure the travel path of the axle, in relation to the track bar pivot, is parallel to the drag length. The problem is that if they are not, the drag link will move as the spindle does, causing bump steer. keep their pivot points similar and you'll never have to worry about it. don't forget "bump steer" will never entirely go away. This is a solid axle vehicle and since the ground path of the tire will always change, as it hits a bump, the leaning of the tire will also cause a change in direction.
^ the note about Caster is also a good one. Get that as close as possible back to stock; as long as you don't incur vibes from the front shaft U-joints.
I don't agree with this statement.
^ the note about Caster is also a good one. Get that as close as possible back to stock; as long as you don't incur vibes from the front shaft U-joints.
I don't agree with this statement.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 682
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From: Elk River, Minnesota
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You only need a DPA if you installed a trac-bar drop bracket. Doing one with out the other will put the steering geometry in different planes and that's not good and causes bump steer. Something else is more than likely causing your steering woes.
#6
aka Wade-O
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 10
From: IN
Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
x2. check out that caster because that is most likely the problem.
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#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 95
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks Guys for the dialogue.... Unfortunately this is exactly what I've been running into on the subject. Some are saying one thing, while others are saying another....
Over the weekend I got my new tires put on and noticed that I may be a little toe out on the drivers side. With that said, I know things need to break in, (only about 300 miles on everything now) but don't want to go too long and start un even tread ware and or premature ware on the new steering assembly. So... any suggestions on when I should get it back on an alignment rack? Ill try to post some pic's tonight of how everything is looking currently.
Again thanks for chiming in
Over the weekend I got my new tires put on and noticed that I may be a little toe out on the drivers side. With that said, I know things need to break in, (only about 300 miles on everything now) but don't want to go too long and start un even tread ware and or premature ware on the new steering assembly. So... any suggestions on when I should get it back on an alignment rack? Ill try to post some pic's tonight of how everything is looking currently.
Again thanks for chiming in
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 575
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From: ohio
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i 6
Originally Posted by FrankZ
Looks like the trackbar and drag link are parallel.
You don't need a drop Pitman Arm.
You don't need a drop Pitman Arm.
#13
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
bump steer is when the track bar and drag link are not parallel...
frankz is 100% right
it is not optimal steering but it all looks good to me as well.
get an alignment and see what you get then.... caster plays a BIG role
frankz is 100% right
it is not optimal steering but it all looks good to me as well.
get an alignment and see what you get then.... caster plays a BIG role
#15
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 15
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
take it back to the shop (you should have a warranty on it) and have them re align it and give you the print out and see what number you come up with.