Anyone in Kalifornia running this setup and passing smog, legally???

 

? when you change the design of the kit, you are sort of on your own. If you can pull it off, great. Gotta get the pulley aligned up, front support, make an adapter for the SC to tubing and tubing to manifold adapter. It's a whole another kit.

 

Ok have some more questions for the guys that's been running the kit for awhile. I'm thinking of going with the next size down pulley, what size is the one that comes in the kit?And what size is the one ppl have been running to get up to 8psi? Water/meth, what kit do u guys recommend or are u building your own?and are u running it In conjunction with the 7th injector or by itself? Last question lol is anyone running head studs to help keep from having head gasket failure? Sorry for so many questions and thanks!

 

Meth and 7th injector.
Coolingmist.com have used 3 of their systems.

 

Good question

 

Fair enough. Ill wait for kit then

 

So what engine mods are needed when running more boost? Say 10- 20 psi.

 

That's a good question. I have no idea but I would say if the engine is stock mechanically 8-10psi.If u had a good gasket and maybe head studs 10-12. Anything after that prolly needs forged internals? Idk for sure though this is all just guesses from what I have read on Other forums an articles.

 

The real question is, What is boost? Boost is the measurement of 'backpressure' in the intake manifold.

What leads to 'higher boost'?
Poor flowing intake manifold, poor flowing head, small intake valves, small lift and duration cam, poor flowing exhaust.

I would rather have a 'higher flowing/less restrictive' engine which will actually have less 'backpressure' and lower boost.

Having said that, the M62 and Sprintex 210 superchargers will never see over 12.5 pounds boost on a stock 4.0L. They just don't put out any more cfm of air.

Now a M90 or equivalent SC will get you to 12-20 pounds boost.

What do you need-?

#1 Tuning capability!
#2 Wideband O2 sensor
3" air intake tract, high flow filter, coldest air location
70mmTB if draw thru or 62/63mmTB if blow thru
Intercooler of some sort- air-air, air-water or
Chemical/Liquid cooling- 7th injector, Meth inj
ported or custom high flow intake manifold
ported big valve head
slight cam like 231 or 232(has less overlap) and appropriate springs
MLS head gasket
APR head studs
9.0:1 compression and good quench
forged dished pistons
recent rebuild (no 150,000 mile engine)
quality headers with ceramic coating and 2.5-3" all back, full exhaust and cat

 

Buy a 4bt cummins and you can make real boost. 20-40 psi.

 

Increasing boost on this M62 has some drawbacks. Using data from it's spec sheet...

Increasing boost 5psi to 7.5psi at 14,000 SC rpm (4660engine rpm) will-

1-require/soak up additional 5 HP, (a 5HP loss) to turn the blower harder
2-increases delta temp 30* to 160*F, (just the 30* increase will lose 3% HP)
3-the 160* delta temp + ambient + underhood/intake tract heat soak = very close to 300* charge IAT which seems to be a threshold for detonation
4-incr +2.5psi boost should add about 13% more HP but lose 5hp + lose 3%hp so might only realize 8% increase in hp but increase chance of detonation
5-to combat detonation, need to increase fuel and amount of timing retard which both contribute to a decrease in power (lose another 3%)

So increasing boost from 5psi to 7.5psi (or 6psi to 8psi) might only gain 5-6% HP. It will gain boost at lower rpm which will help increase low-mid range tq.

The real gain is if you can increase boost and keep the same or cooler charge IAT. By using the 7th injector + Meth (blue washer fluid) and cooling down the charge IAT you won't need additional fuel or additional timing retard and you will gain the full 13+% and only lose the 5hp incr parasitic loss.

 

thats never gonna happen, you would instantly fail the visual test

 

CM do you have the kit's up for sale yet? I may be interested in this in the future when I rebuild my spare 4.0 for my 89' Renix.

Thanks,

Black89

 

The thing about this kit is its so easy to install or remove. I have emissions coming up and plan on pulling the kit and putting it back to stock for the test. I know it would have no problem passing the sniffer test since I have no timing or fuel mods. I'm worried about the visual. But at about 2 hrs to remove then another 2hrs to re install its no big deal.

 

Ouch, CO has a visual test? How often? Any way to get an exemption?