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I had a VW bug when I was a kid and it had what was called full flow which was part of the oil pump. It allowed oil to be transferred out of the engine to a finned cooler and then back. It helped cool the engine. Has anyone seen anyone doing this same thing to our XJ's? These motors run so hot and I live in Phoenix, AZ, so why wouldn't a full flow system help out?
The easiest way to install an oil cooler on a Cherokee is to use one of the "sandwich plates" that go between the block and the oil filter. They divert some of the oil to the cooler once it reaches a certain temperature. I use something similar on my track car, and it keeps oil temps down significantly.
For the Bugs, the full flow was also an oil filter thing too. Auxiliary coolers would be added after the full flow filter. (I too am a Bug guy from way back and still am)
For the water cooled jeep, there is likely more opportunity to enhance over all cooling with the radiator system than the oil system. Water/antifreeze can move a lot more heat than the oil. I dropped temps in my xj a lot by ditching the stock aluminum/plastic radiator for an all copper/brass thicker radiator, I also have the less slip grand cherokee fan clutch and run an electric fan override switch so I can turn it on before things heat up too much
Consider one thing if you have an automatic tranny, it gets very hot, if you dont have a temp gage for the ATF, GET ONE INSTALLED It was extremely eye opening on how fast it can get too hot depending on driving conditions, and it is partly cooled by the radiator side tank. I ended up installing a large 12 x 12 inch ATF cooler to help the life of my auto tranny. If your engine is hot, so is your tranny so dont neglect that. Get a gage for ATF!!! It will help change you driving habits if you watch it, but for hot condition like desert you NEED a LARGE ATF cooler, the stock two pass tube cooler is NOT good enough
So if you are running hot, consider the cooling system upgrades before oil cooler, an oil cooler wont hurt, but for high engine temps, get the better radiator, fan clutch, electric fan override. Then deal with you auto tranny if so equiped. trannys are expensive and heat KILLS THEM!
For the Bugs, the full flow was also an oil filter thing too. Auxiliary coolers would be added after the full flow filter. (I too am a Bug guy from way back and still am)
For the water cooled jeep, there is likely more opportunity to enhance over all cooling with the radiator system than the oil system. Water/antifreeze can move a lot more heat than the oil. I dropped temps in my xj a lot by ditching the stock aluminum/plastic radiator for an all copper/brass thicker radiator, I also have the less slip grand cherokee fan clutch and run an electric fan override switch so I can turn it on before things heat up too much
Consider one thing if you have an automatic tranny, it gets very hot, if you dont have a temp gage for the ATF, GET ONE INSTALLED It was extremely eye opening on how fast it can get too hot depending on driving conditions, and it is partly cooled by the radiator side tank. I ended up installing a large 12 x 12 inch ATF cooler to help the life of my auto tranny. If your engine is hot, so is your tranny so dont neglect that. Get a gage for ATF!!! It will help change you driving habits if you watch it, but for hot condition like desert you NEED a LARGE ATF cooler, the stock two pass tube cooler is NOT good enough
So if you are running hot, consider the cooling system upgrades before oil cooler, an oil cooler wont hurt, but for high engine temps, get the better radiator, fan clutch, electric fan override. Then deal with you auto tranny if so equiped. trannys are expensive and heat KILLS THEM!
As far as my trans goes, it was one of the first things I did to keep it cool. I added a finned cooler. I don't have a gauge for it but it's been on it for almost 10 years without any problems. That's why I want to put a finned cooler for the oil. I already have the thicker radiator, I also bought a new exhaust manifold and had it coated in Jet Hot ceramic coating. Another thing I did was raise the back of the hood with spacers about an inch. My airbox is no longer in the stock position so I can use that location to install the finned cooler possibly with a fan.
As far as my trans goes, it was one of the first things I did to keep it cool. I added a finned cooler. I don't have a gauge for it but it's been on it for almost 10 years without any problems. That's why I want to put a finned cooler for the oil. I already have the thicker radiator, I also bought a new exhaust manifold and had it coated in Jet Hot ceramic coating. Another thing I did was raise the back of the hood with spacers about an inch. My airbox is no longer in the stock position so I can use that location to install the finned cooler possibly with a fan.
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Get an ATF gage, it was a real big eye opener seeing has quick the temperature can spike up, It taught me to down shift more, not idle in gear, all having to do with reducing converter slip. Before gage I had a small sized ATF cooler, now got a larger one, but still the temperature will spike unless I take action with shifting and such. Cool down is almost immediate when action is taken. The bigger cooler helped, but driving habits is also huge deal.
Get an ATF gage, it was a real big eye opener seeing has quick the temperature can spike up, It taught me to down shift more, not idle in gear, all having to do with reducing converter slip. Before gage I had a small sized ATF cooler, now got a larger one, but still the temperature will spike unless I take action with shifting and such. Cool down is almost immediate when action is taken. The bigger cooler helped, but driving habits is also huge deal.
I mounted gage in a pod (can) that is on my steering column.
Tranny temp gage in a can mount
I really like this idea, but I am not sure how it'll help since I have an automatic and with how hot it is here. So you mentioned converter slip. I am not sure if I have had this, but it has happened twice in 1 year both in the summer but in different places. On Friday, I went to deliver some stuff and drove about 50 before I noticed anything. Granted it was very hot, probably 110 but just regular freeway driving. I came to a stop and then went to move and nothing. Everything was running normal. So I figured it was the same thing that happened to me last summer. I let it cool down for about 10 minutes and then put it in lower gear and made it to my destination. I did check the oil and saw that it was at normal level but it stunk really bad. Could this be the cause of my trans not working properly? Is there anything more I need to do?
I added the gage to my automatic tranny. the converter slips under normal circumstances a bit, that is what it does when you stop at a traffic light when in gear slipping creates heat rapidly in the tranny. excessive slip will really cook the tranny and burn the fluid. This can ruin the tranny. when stopped for long periods, shift to park to avoid slip. if slipping when driving, say when climbing a hill, you should down shift to reduce slipping. the gage is very useful to help training you to note when to down shift, when to pull over and let her cool, etc... this can save you from a ruined tranny. mount the gage in an easy to see spot so you can see it without taking your eye off the road. the temperature can quickly climb, and when it does you need to take action and shift, or cool it down by stopping and putting her in park or in nuetral and rev motor to keep the fluid circulating through cooler with fan on.
If your fluid smells burnt, or has become darkened you NEED to change the fluid in order to protect the tranny, the fluid is no longer any good.
Not that it has anything in common...my wifes 2016 Cherokee shows a tranny temp of about 160 on almost all of our long highway speed trips . Taking one again soon, will see how high it gets in traffic and any hills we encounter...not towing anything sadly
Early AW4 trannies have a port on the right side for the temperature sensor, later ones do not. Mine has this port (1990 year). my buddy has a late tranny (2001 year) so he added the sender on the AFT cooler supply hose using a barbed fitting that has provision for the temperature sender.
Thanks for this helpful link. As I scrolled down, I found links that get you the parts you need to complete the work after you remove the plug from the transmission. I don't look forward to doing this work especially since it's going to be 115* this weekend,
When you remove the plug, does any fluid leak out the side?
Also, I replaced the transmission filter 15 years ago but I have only put 25k miles on it. Should I replace the filter? I have a trans mount that I am replacing while I am doing this. Anything else while I am under it?
Truly can't remember how much oil came out. I want to say it's not much, certainly not like it's draining anything, but it would be prudent to be ready for enough oil to drip on the floor...
Unless you need to replace the pan gasket, there's no reason to replace the screen in the pan. If you have the pan down anyway, only then does it make sense to replace the screen.
On my particular XJ, the dipstick tube is very intimate with the trans temp sensor. More of a heads-up that you may need to unbolt it from the block up top to make it life easier installing the sensor.
While-you're-there projects?
1. Grease the double-carden joint on front driveshaft, which requires removal of shaft and a needle adapter for a grease gun, but since you'll have the crossmember out anyways...
2. A good time to clean and re-"grease" the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)
3. Inspect rear brake steel lines and rubber hose
4. Look for rust issues
5. Fuel filter is under there
6. The Boostwerks Transfer Case Linkage kit I installed for my NP242 is one of my favorite mods, but I did remove the gate under the console and shift by feel. Can be an issue if you let someone else drive it and they need to work the tcase...
Truly can't remember how much oil came out. I want to say it's not much, certainly not like it's draining anything, but it would be prudent to be ready for enough oil to drip on the floor...
Unless you need to replace the pan gasket, there's no reason to replace the screen in the pan. If you have the pan down anyway, only then does it make sense to replace the screen.
On my particular XJ, the dipstick tube is very intimate with the trans temp sensor. More of a heads-up that you may need to unbolt it from the block up top to make it life easier installing the sensor.
While-you're-there projects?
1. Grease the double-carden joint on front driveshaft, which requires removal of shaft and a needle adapter for a grease gun, but since you'll have the crossmember out anyways...
2. A good time to clean and re-"grease" the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)
3. Inspect rear brake steel lines and rubber hose
4. Look for rust issues
5. Fuel filter is under there
6. The Boostwerks Transfer Case Linkage kit I installed for my NP242 is one of my favorite mods, but I did remove the gate under the console and shift by feel. Can be an issue if you let someone else drive it and they need to work the tcase...
1. I suppose its a good time to do this since I have never done it before. I have placed an order for a needle adapter.
2. I have watched a youtube video and a guy took it apart. I have watched it before and forgot a lot of the material but how do you regrease an NSS?
3. I have not done this before, I will do this too.
4. I live in AZ and we really don't have rust but I will check.
5. I suppose I will change this out since I have never done it.
6. There are knock offs to this linkage kit. Are these worth it?
My fuel gauge never reads full, but when it is full it only gets to 3/4. When it gets past E, there's still a 1/4 of a tank left. Is this because of the fuel pump in the tank? My tank does have a nice dent in it but my problems occurred before that happened.
2. The dielectric "grease" that comes from the factory dries up over time, eventually leading to issues. It's really just a matter of disassembling it, making sure you don't loose any of the springs or contacts, cleaning out the old grease with electronic contact cleaner and a pick, old toothbrush, etc and then liberally greasing it up again with new dielectric "grease". Be careful pulling it off the transmission though, it can be a bear if it's been almost 30 years since it's been off and it's relatively easy to break. It's not bad, just something you have to put a little care into...
6. Four things jump out at me about the Boostwerks kit that make it worth it to me. Zinc plated plates, stainless steel adjustment stud, a nice big hex on the adjustment stud and the use of ball joints from FK. I bought one because they were the first to come out with one for the NP242, so it's not like I had options. Looking at it now, in my shoes, I'd pay the extra $20, but everyone's shoes fit differently... There's a bit of work involved in installing this kit, requiring removal of the Center Console so that you can remove the Handle to drill it, so this may be a bit big for a "while I'm there" project. It's also nice to remove the stationary bracket, but not necessary. Doing so, though, all but requires two people, one above and one below, unless you have freakishly long arms...
The Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly holds both the Fuel Pump and the Fuel Level Sensor. You can replace the Fuel Pump independently, but the Fuel Level Sensor is tack welded to the Hanger Assembly, so while you could certainly finagle things, it's generally easier just the buy the whole things as a "Fuel Pump Assembly" and replace the pump while you're there. And easier thing to try is to remove the DS rear interior panel and clean off the paint under the ground wires that secure to the body there behind the panel. I've gone so far as to add a 10ga wire running from that point up to the Kick Panel where I added the recommended wire from the Dash to the Kick Panel to improve grounding of everything on the dash.
06-14-2024, 02:00 AM
Full flow oil cooler
