Full flow oil cooler
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2.
The Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly holds both the Fuel Pump and the Fuel Level Sensor. You can replace the Fuel Pump independently, but the Fuel Level Sensor is tack welded to the Hanger Assembly, so while you could certainly finagle things, it's generally easier just the buy the whole things as a "Fuel Pump Assembly" and replace the pump while you're there. And easier thing to try is to remove the DS rear interior panel and clean off the paint under the ground wires that secure to the body there behind the panel. I've gone so far as to add a 10ga wire running from that point up to the Kick Panel where I added the recommended wire from the Dash to the Kick Panel to improve grounding of everything on the dash.
The Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly holds both the Fuel Pump and the Fuel Level Sensor. You can replace the Fuel Pump independently, but the Fuel Level Sensor is tack welded to the Hanger Assembly, so while you could certainly finagle things, it's generally easier just the buy the whole things as a "Fuel Pump Assembly" and replace the pump while you're there. And easier thing to try is to remove the DS rear interior panel and clean off the paint under the ground wires that secure to the body there behind the panel. I've gone so far as to add a 10ga wire running from that point up to the Kick Panel where I added the recommended wire from the Dash to the Kick Panel to improve grounding of everything on the dash.
#17
Senior Member
No experience myself with that mod... You'll likely get a better response if you start a new thread with a title more specific to the question...
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
There was a guy from Australia who had an xj and knew or seemed to know everything about these cars. He even had his own website but I can't seem to find it anymore. Anyways, he had a way for the 20 gallon tanks to get the full 20 gallons. Here is his write up: https://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/index.htm He used a vent tube extension that curved towards the top of the tank. It's been awhile since anyone has posted anything on here about this upgrade. Has anyone done it?
He was both a Jeep dealer mechanic and specialist 4wd suspension mechanic
No need to change trans filter, its a wire screen
trans temp gauge is a great and needed mod, cost me $20, its hard to get in there, make sure the washer is tight to avoid leakage, the T55 has blue loctite and may want heat
Its all about duty cycle in heat. So if you live in cold climate, no real issues, but once ambient gets into 80s, trans temp can climb, especially if towing up hills
I learned this the hard way, burnt one up in out hot climate, they never make much more than 200k miles according to my mate who is foreman at the largest auto rebuild place
Mine has extensive, and will have even more trans cooling, I stop the vehicle if the temp touches 115C which is 240F, this only happens when I tow a trailer up the mountains in hot weather
temp readings are much higher direct from oil pump port than if added elsewhere, such as a T-junction, or sump
trans life is directly related to duty cycle in heat
My trans runs about 85C which is the same as engine temp
The in rad cooler is on the hot side for RHD, a ****ty arrangement
Some Aussie Jeepsters have resorted to fitting LHD rads if they live in very hot areas.
The XJ has a somewhat "marginal" cooling system imo
As I said, 70F, no issues at all, !00F, you have to baby them. This means a trans temp gauge
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I recently had an issue with my trans slipping. I checked the fluid and it was black, so I drained and filled up with the red stuff, drove it and checked the levels. I am not sure but I think it's still slipping. I do have 33's with stock gearing. I know there's some lag there since it's not geared properly. It seems like if you get on it, nothing happens and you really aren't going any faster. Did the NEW red stuff really help? Oh, when I bought it the previous owner said there was trans issues. I bought 4 new solenoids and everything seemed fine. Go forward in time 10 years and the slipping happened again last summer in the mountains and had to be towed back to camp.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I recently had an issue with my trans slipping. I checked the fluid and it was black, so I drained and filled up with the red stuff, drove it and checked the levels. I am not sure but I think it's still slipping. I do have 33's with stock gearing. I know there's some lag there since it's not geared properly. It seems like if you get on it, nothing happens and you really aren't going any faster. Did the NEW red stuff really help? Oh, when I bought it the previous owner said there was trans issues. I bought 4 new solenoids and everything seemed fine. Go forward in time 10 years and the slipping happened again last summer in the mountains and had to be towed back to camp.
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