brokedadsjeep

I'm guessing this subject has been beaten to death but is anyone out there using the rampage housings? Is the glass tough? What are the best headlights for it? I'd go with led's but I get lake effect snow in northeast Ohio. Thx for any help/advice in advance.

Jim Malcolm

Relay Harness makes a big difference. If you're still pulling power through the Headlight Switch to power the bulbs, you MUST install a Relay Harness.

I used a set from Rampage for a few years with the bulbs that came with it and a Relay Harness, but its been many years now, so I can't say things haven't changed. The front glass was very thin. They were plenty bright with a nice side spread, but a very defined top cutoff line. Using the high beams was all but a necessity due the cutoff and changing bulbs wouldn't do anything to improve it. I started exploring amber driving light options for driving in the snow due to the "whiteness" of the light and the inability to see beyond that cutoff.

I'm currently running 'Extra Bright' 55W sealed beams with a Relay Harness. Light output is the same, as best I can remember, but the top cutoff is significantly less pronounced. The other week I noticed that I've only now started to use high beams, due to the deer, but I don't really need them for driving... The "whiteness" is the same, so the same "wash-out" of detail when trying to see where the road ends, and the ditch starts, when making first-tracks after having just woke up. The longer throw gives you more time to read the shadows, making it actually reasonable to drive, instead of constantly looking 30ft in front of you. Or said another way, I haven't had the same desire to add amber driving lights...

cruiser54

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE

NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 63 COMMENTS EDIT

It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.

From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.

The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out.



Ebay has the harnesses. 2 headlamp H4 with ceramic connectors is what you want. You’ll likely be warned that the harness won’t fit your Jeep. It will.

Absolutely plug and play:

• Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side.
• Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness.
• Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it.
• Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side.
• Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp.
• Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness.
• Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt.
• Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender.
• Connect power wires to battery.
• Revised 1-31-2016

Ralph77

When you say the "Extra Bright" do you mean like the Wagner BriteLite versions of the stock headlights?
Those are what I run. I don't drive a lot at night, think most LED headlights are butt ugly, and then you have the whole melting snow thing so....
My primary reason for doing the harness upgrade was just to take the stress off the headlight switch.
If the harness did not accomplish that I would not have even wasted my time. LOL.

cruiser54

I run 90/100 Philips bulbs with the harness on 3 of my vehicles.

Jim Malcolm

Yes sir, those are the ones I have...