Well I know it's a skyjacker product what I don't know is how much lift it actually is. Jeep has stock leafs appear to be stock blocks and larger shackles. Up front is a set of control arm drop brackets stock control arms and larger coils.

The problem here is that it's all very worn and very saggy.
Currently has 31s and good bit of fender trimming.

Would really like to replace this set up as the sagging is bugging me pretty bad. Any tips on figuring out how much lift it's supposed to be would be great. Also looking for lift suggestions. Would like around 3.5 to 4 with full new leafs don't care if it's block or shackle lift. Preferable new control arms and no drop brackets.
Thanks guys

 

Measure the lift blocks in the rear.And if you haven't seen this https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ its a nice chart showing what you need at what size lift.

 

No cherokee came stock with blocks, just cheap lifts and they aren't trusted, especially if they're aluminum. If the stock flares are still on in their stock place then you can determine how much lift you have by measuring from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the flare. Not sure what the stock numbers are off the top of my head but a quick Google search will answer that.

 

You can measure from the axle to the frame. 6 inches on one axle and a half inch more on the other is factory height.

 

As stated, lift blocks are not factory and are considered one of the worst ways to acquire lift in the rear.

Why would you want to lose the control arm drop brackets? From the sounds of it those are the only pieces worth keeping. Maybe the shackles and coil springs depending on the condition of those.

Sounds like you're in for basically a whole new lift.

 

I figured a new lift would be in order. The old one at least the leafs are very worn and saggy. Heck with nothing in the back they sit just about flat. The jeep has no flares on it now. The blocks are 1inch and yes they are aluminum. Has skyjacker shocks and I'd rather just go with a long arm set up if the money is right

 

If you're going to go that route....do it right.

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...-NP231J-T-case

 

After doing my home work and looking at numbers I plan on staying around 3.5 lift and short arms should do the trick. I've got a few companies in mind need to save a bit and I'll go from there

 

4.5" and 33" tires always seem to be the magic ticket for a lot of people, chances are on 31 or 32's eventually you will regret not going 33's, if you are game for a lot of fender cutting.... 3.5" and 33" tires give you a nice low Center of Gravity (that is how my daughters is), yet keeps your axles from dragging.

My philosophy is to try run a tire size that matches or exceeds what most wheelers are running where you go wheeling, otherwise your axle will constantly getting hung up when your tires are in other peoples ruts.

 

My Cummins is on 33s and that's honestly as big as it'll ever get its a go fast truck not a mud toy. I was looking at a RE 3.5 and sticking with the 31s. The fenders are already trimmed guess somebody already had 33s on it idk. I'll most likely stick with a 31. On our jeeps does the leaf pack mount straight to the axle? Been working on trucks for a long time and I don't think I've ever seen anything without a factory block.heck the 98 ram 2500 I just put a rear in at work had a 4in block from the factory

 

Straight to the axle no blocks. Most people agree blocks are not the way to go for xjs.

 

The leafs on an xj are too soft. If you add blocks you will get axle wrap going up the Wendy's driveway.

 

Toaster king. You are the man thanks for helping out in all these noob threads I'm making really appreciate it bud. So say I run a RE 3.5 I've already planned for a hack n tap and 3/4 spacers up front (eventually bumper and winch) is there anything else I need to keep the driveline happy? How does the front drive shafts like the lift?

 

How about the track bar? Need to be adjustable?
Probably gonna end up with adjustable upper control arms as mine are worn... bad.

 

That chart has everything you will need. You wont have to worry about the front shaft until it is too short as it has a double-cardan joint to start with.