Help me choose an axle!
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Help me choose an axle!
Before I get flamed for not searching, I have read almost every thread on here, NAXJA, Pirate, and Jeepforum regarding the 2 axles in question (8.8 D44); spent prob 12 hours total researching.
I have a 8.25 29sp, and am looking to upgrade. I run 33's now and am building my jeep to handle 35's reliably.
I just bought a front HP D30, and am building that, both axles will have a selectable locker, and both will be regeared to 4:56 or 4:88. So oem gears aren't a factor. Since both are going to be torn apart and out from under the XJ I thought I'd upgrade the rear while I'm at it to either a 8.8 or XJ D44.
Right now I can get a 8.8 complete for $100, or I have a guy a couple hundred miles away willing to ship an 89 XJ D44 for around $450 to me.
So not factoring cost as to me they'd prob end up being the same by the time I got stuff welded, brakes to where I want them, etc etc, which would you choose. I'd love to hear from people that have ran both or have experience with both. I'm just looking for the last rear axle I have to buy(I'm honest with myself, I'm not doing moab or anything crazy and will never require 9", 60, etc), and want one that can take a beating with 35's on the northeast terrain.
I have read enough of the differences on other threads that I have them memorized, I just want actual experience with both from people that have one or the either.
THANK YOU!
p.s. Sorry if I posted this in the wrong section, still somewhat of a forum noob.
I have a 8.25 29sp, and am looking to upgrade. I run 33's now and am building my jeep to handle 35's reliably.
I just bought a front HP D30, and am building that, both axles will have a selectable locker, and both will be regeared to 4:56 or 4:88. So oem gears aren't a factor. Since both are going to be torn apart and out from under the XJ I thought I'd upgrade the rear while I'm at it to either a 8.8 or XJ D44.
Right now I can get a 8.8 complete for $100, or I have a guy a couple hundred miles away willing to ship an 89 XJ D44 for around $450 to me.
So not factoring cost as to me they'd prob end up being the same by the time I got stuff welded, brakes to where I want them, etc etc, which would you choose. I'd love to hear from people that have ran both or have experience with both. I'm just looking for the last rear axle I have to buy(I'm honest with myself, I'm not doing moab or anything crazy and will never require 9", 60, etc), and want one that can take a beating with 35's on the northeast terrain.
I have read enough of the differences on other threads that I have them memorized, I just want actual experience with both from people that have one or the either.
THANK YOU!
p.s. Sorry if I posted this in the wrong section, still somewhat of a forum noob.
#2
D44 with Alloy shafts.
No c-clips, unlimited aftermarket support.
I ran a D44's in my last heep. Bent one of the stock shafts so I swapped in a set of ALLOYUSA shafts out back...never had another problem. Yes I was on 35's and I had ample power to do plenty of damage to a stock axle assy.
No c-clips, unlimited aftermarket support.
I ran a D44's in my last heep. Bent one of the stock shafts so I swapped in a set of ALLOYUSA shafts out back...never had another problem. Yes I was on 35's and I had ample power to do plenty of damage to a stock axle assy.
#3
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
just kidding.
all 3 of those axles are good, mostly because they will all be stronger than your front axle if you build them decently. if you break anything it will probably be your D30. actually it definitely will be your D30.
I like whatever is cheap and effective for a rear axle. a 29 spline 8.25 is about as cheap and effective as it gets. I like 8.8 and D44 too. whatever is available and easy. and relatively within budget
#5
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well you're off to a bad start
just kidding.
all 3 of those axles are good, mostly because they will all be stronger than your front axle if you build them decently. if you break anything it will probably be your D30. actually it definitely will be your D30.
I like whatever is cheap and effective for a rear axle. a 29 spline 8.25 is about as cheap and effective as it gets. I like 8.8 and D44 too. whatever is available and easy. and relatively within budget
just kidding.
all 3 of those axles are good, mostly because they will all be stronger than your front axle if you build them decently. if you break anything it will probably be your D30. actually it definitely will be your D30.
I like whatever is cheap and effective for a rear axle. a 29 spline 8.25 is about as cheap and effective as it gets. I like 8.8 and D44 too. whatever is available and easy. and relatively within budget
The only things I didn't read too much about were the big housing of the 8.8, and the offset pinion, and how much of problem(not problem) they are.
#6
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
D44 with Alloy shafts.
No c-clips, unlimited aftermarket support.
I ran a D44's in my last heep. Bent one of the stock shafts so I swapped in a set of ALLOYUSA shafts out back...never had another problem. Yes I was on 35's and I had ample power to do plenty of damage to a stock axle assy.
No c-clips, unlimited aftermarket support.
I ran a D44's in my last heep. Bent one of the stock shafts so I swapped in a set of ALLOYUSA shafts out back...never had another problem. Yes I was on 35's and I had ample power to do plenty of damage to a stock axle assy.
#7
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know I'll still be limited by the 30 in the front, "building" just means c gussets and wj brakes. I figure if/when I break a one, or two, I'll consider something else in front. Building the 8.25 I have will def be cheaper, but I'm not impressed with the options of aftermarket stuff for it, specifically selectable lockers. Basically all I'm saving in cost if I go with the 8.25 is the housing; no matter what axle I go with will have disc brakes, chromos, new gears, and a selectable.
The only things I didn't read too much about were the big housing of the 8.8, and the offset pinion, and how much of problem(not problem) they are.
The only things I didn't read too much about were the big housing of the 8.8, and the offset pinion, and how much of problem(not problem) they are.
the 8.8 is large. I absolutely love 8.8's but it may be better suited for a 37" tire half ton build. like I said, all 3 are great axles. just do whatever is easiest/available. D44 will hold best resale value
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#8
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0
jeez you're going for the money shot. unfortunately it's a losing game with the D30 ring and pinion in the end but that's just the way it is. the 8.8 is large. I absolutely love 8.8's but it may be better suited for a 37" tire half ton build. like I said, all 3 are great axles. just do whatever is easiest/available. D44 will hold best resale value
If I did the 8.8 I prob wouldn't do chromos, but the other 2 I would.
The 44 the guy will ship has 4:56 gears and a carrier, both I could sell to offset the cost of buying the axle(the guy that is going to regear uses motive and won't install other gears anyway so)
Why better suited for a 37"? Hang too low?
Does the 8.8 really give any actual lift height, because I really don't want that.
#9
It'll be built over the summer, I don't have a lot of money, but have been saving for some upgrades to my axles. It's a dd that sees lots of snow so selectables are a must as well, no way out of that cost. If I did the 8.8 I prob wouldn't do chromos, but the other 2 I would. The 44 the guy will ship has 4:56 gears and a carrier, both I could sell to offset the cost of buying the axle(the guy that is going to regear uses motive and won't install other gears anyway so) Why better suited for a 37"? Hang too low? Does the 8.8 really give any actual lift height, because I really don't want that.
#10
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think for $100 already pulled disc to disc I'll prob just get it. Maybe buy the 44 too and have them both in front of me and just decide then. Then just sell the other haha.
#11
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
a tad bit of lift height shouldn't be a concern anyway OP
better suited for 37's definitely because of it's size and strength. I've always wanted to build a full width 8.8 and D44 combo, but ended up going bigger instead. it's just an axle I really enjoyed abusing without a second thought. it works great on 35's, just be prepared to get hung up on it on it playing in rock gardens
#12
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
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this can be cancelled out with low profile leaf perches though. no big deal of course a tad bit of lift height shouldn't be a concern anyway OP better suited for 37's definitely because of it's size and strength. I've always wanted to build a full width 8.8 and D44 combo, but ended up going bigger instead. it's just an axle I really enjoyed abusing without a second thought. it works great on 35's, just be prepared to get hung up on it on it playing in rock gardens
Would I get hung up more so than 33" with the 8.25? I fell like with 35's on the 8.8 it'd be about the same..
I like that the 8.8 can potentially handle a bigger tire, so if/when that time comes I could just worry about the front. But plans for the next say 5-6 years are to stay on 35's.
#13
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i run an xj44 locked with 36 inch bias ply iroks and have been running strong for the last 15 or so years.
i bought a spare xj44 just in case this one broke, but it's still just sitting there. i will put it in one of my other xj's.
i also have a 44/9 matched combo i was gonna upgrade to eventually, but again, nothing wrong with the hp30/xj44 so far.
the 8.8 is a pretty strong axle and a popular upgrade (mostly in tj's tho), but they are a c-clip axle. i know they have discs that will hold the axle in, but if one does break, the disc setup will get destroyed.
my vote is xj44, but at 450, that sounds pricey. i bought both mine for 100 bux each with driveshafts. they do average around 250 in my area.
i bought a spare xj44 just in case this one broke, but it's still just sitting there. i will put it in one of my other xj's.
i also have a 44/9 matched combo i was gonna upgrade to eventually, but again, nothing wrong with the hp30/xj44 so far.
the 8.8 is a pretty strong axle and a popular upgrade (mostly in tj's tho), but they are a c-clip axle. i know they have discs that will hold the axle in, but if one does break, the disc setup will get destroyed.
my vote is xj44, but at 450, that sounds pricey. i bought both mine for 100 bux each with driveshafts. they do average around 250 in my area.
#14
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From: WNY
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i run an xj44 locked with 36 inch bias ply iroks and have been running strong for the last 15 or so years.
i bought a spare xj44 just in case this one broke, but it's still just sitting there. i will put it in one of my other xj's.
i also have a 44/9 matched combo i was gonna upgrade to eventually, but again, nothing wrong with the hp30/xj44 so far.
the 8.8 is a pretty strong axle and a popular upgrade (mostly in tj's tho), but they are a c-clip axle. i know they have discs that will hold the axle in, but if one does break, the disc setup will get destroyed.
my vote is xj44, but at 450, that sounds pricey. i bought both mine for 100 bux each with driveshafts. they do average around 250 in my area.
i bought a spare xj44 just in case this one broke, but it's still just sitting there. i will put it in one of my other xj's.
i also have a 44/9 matched combo i was gonna upgrade to eventually, but again, nothing wrong with the hp30/xj44 so far.
the 8.8 is a pretty strong axle and a popular upgrade (mostly in tj's tho), but they are a c-clip axle. i know they have discs that will hold the axle in, but if one does break, the disc setup will get destroyed.
my vote is xj44, but at 450, that sounds pricey. i bought both mine for 100 bux each with driveshafts. they do average around 250 in my area.
From my understanding I would have to snap that 31sp shaft to worry about c clips, and I haven't read too many people doing that in all the threads I read, I can understand peoples hate for c clips while working on an axle, but strength wise from my reading I don't see it as a fault. Also, I haven't experienced an axle shaft break, but from videos I've seen of it happening, c clips or not, you'll still be opening the diff to any pieces out, all that really matters is getting out of wherever you are to do that. If it becomes a prob there are kits that eliminate the clips I believe.
8.8
$100 for axle
$125 for ruff stuff kit, maybe cheaper if I can salvage some parts
$150-200 misc brake parts(possibly new rotors, pads, MORE e brake cables if I get lazy, etc)
$40 for ubolt yoke instead of flange since it's getting regeared
$100 welding, maybe, might have a friend do it with a flux core, unless you think it better I take it to someone with a mig
44
$450 for axle
$200-400 chromo shafts (one has some twists from the previous owners locker)
$100-400 disc brakes (can be done cheap with jy parts or buy a kit)
-$Selling stock carrier
-$Selling whatever 4:56 gears come with it
what I'm looking at as it stands now, prob forgetting a few things, either one will be regeared and have a locker, so same price for both more or less.
I wish the 44 was closer, I'd get it for his asking price of $300 and be done, but I'm not driving 10hrs round trip for it, and freight shipping is $120-140.
#15