Hello all,
I recently got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l 6cyl.
I intend to use it for hauling a trailer. Currently, it is in need of new leaf springs & shocks. The current leaf springs are nearly straight, if not slightly bending inversely. It is bad enough that adding weight to the rear will cause the tires (which are upgraded from P225 to P235) to hit the tire wheel well & scrape/cut into the tire.

I want to future proof these repairs with the goal of using this vehicle for trailer hauling. I know a decent amount of stuff about vehicles, but I am admittedly new to shocks, struts & suspension related things.
Looking at both Rock Auto & Parts Geek, I've seen different parts that seem useful for what I'm trying to accomplish, but I'm unsure about what the differences are in some of the products.

Rock Auto has three separate leaf springs that seem relevant to me. Each with different price points.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=7544&jsn=1
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=7544&jsn=3
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=7544&jsn=4

Then there is this "Monroe Max-Air Suspension Kit"
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...spension_shock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...7556&jsn=11415

That seems like a good buy?

I'd like to avoid any fancy lift kit stuff & just focus on the performance needed to safely tow my trailer & handle the suspension repairs.
Any help is very much appreciated.

 

The 2nd and 3rd leaf springs you posted are the same, 5.5" of arch and 745 lb/in spring rate. The first leaf spring you posted is for the Up Country Option, with 7" of arch and the same spring rate. An Up Country model sites about 1" higher than the other models.

Pass on the Air Shocks. The mounts really aren't up to the load that would be applied to them.

Using proper height bump stop is a big part of making leaf springs last. Even brand-new, the leafs sit nearly flat. It doesn't take much to make them go inverted. With enough bump stop, you can tow anything...

When you get new leafs, take your current main leaf, cut the eyes off and taper the ends. Either replace the second leaf in the pack, or add it instead for a higher spring rate and a bit of lift. The main leaf being unsupported the way it is, it doesn't take long at all before it starts to deform and having that second layer support it out to the eyelets makes a big difference...

 

I have a very similar issue but I have a saggy 4” lift. Are you suggesting just adding a new main leaf essentially on top of the old leaf pack with the old main leaf trimmed to fit flush? Can you get single leaf springs? Or are you just saying to use only the old main leaf to extend the life of the new full leaf pack?

 

The suggestion was to use the old main leaf to extend the lift of a new pack by cutting off the eyelets and placing it below the main leaf in the stack. If you have a spring shop nearby, I presume they could make you a new main leaf. With lift springs, you'll need to use similar old and new lift values so that the arch is the same...

 

Boss air bag spring helpers in place of bump stops. Adjustable to a variety of loads.

I put them in my Sprinter. I will put them in my XJ.

 

I bet you could trade into 2004+ f150 ounce you figure out the xj isnt up to tow much of anything