Lifted Death Wobble
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Lifted Death Wobble
Before getting started, I know there are tons of threads on death wobble and I have read and searched through lots of them but can't find an answer to my exact question.
I have a 2000 XJ Auto with the 231 and about 127,--- miles. I just installed a RC Series 2 3" lift that I got for a steal new on craigslist. After finishing everything up on the kit, I took it for a test drive and got a horrible death wobble at about 65. I had already planned on needing an alignment after the lift, so I kept it at around 45 on the way to the alignment shop. I hit a bump and still got death wobble. I got an alignment done, but am still scared to go any faster than 45. Call me a wimp but I've heard too many stories of death wobble ending in roll overs. I looked over the majority of the steering components when doing the lift. I just don't know if needing an alignment would have caused such a severe problem or if there are other culprits.
There was no drop bracket for the track bar with the lift. Do I need to redrill the track bar axle mount?
It does appear the track bar to axle mount may have bored out a bit. It appears tight though. Any thoughts? Also, how can you tell if the track bar tie rod end is bad?
As I said I got the lift off craigslist and the owner must have lost the extended sway bar link to sway bar mounting brackets. I homefabbed some that I think turned out nicely but could this be the culprit? should I just get the originals from RC? I saw a few threads on homebuild discos(mine are not discos, but still homefab), so I'm not sure if this would affect the death wobble? If so, what do I need to make sure my mounts have, etc.
I got the alignment done and they didn't say anything about the tie rods being bad. How do I check to see if they are?
If a steering box is going out can this cause death wobble? It appears that the seal on the bottom of mine may be out as there is some grease coming out of it. Will this affect anything?
There is some minimal play in the wheel hubs, you can tell by movement in the wheel when rocking it from the top and bottom of the tire on a jack stand. I'm not sure to what level they are supposed to be free and what level means they are bad. There is some road noise but I can't tell if it is the tires, the fact that its a jeep, or if its the hubs.
Thank you very much for the help, and I apologize for the short novel. I am just trying to get this cured as it is my dd and I don't feel safe driving a death wobble machine. I am sure there are also some others out there who could benefit from this thread. All this wobbling has made me question selling the xj. Don't want too, but if its not fixed soon I need something reliable to drive 5 hours back to college come end of winter break.
I have a 2000 XJ Auto with the 231 and about 127,--- miles. I just installed a RC Series 2 3" lift that I got for a steal new on craigslist. After finishing everything up on the kit, I took it for a test drive and got a horrible death wobble at about 65. I had already planned on needing an alignment after the lift, so I kept it at around 45 on the way to the alignment shop. I hit a bump and still got death wobble. I got an alignment done, but am still scared to go any faster than 45. Call me a wimp but I've heard too many stories of death wobble ending in roll overs. I looked over the majority of the steering components when doing the lift. I just don't know if needing an alignment would have caused such a severe problem or if there are other culprits.
There was no drop bracket for the track bar with the lift. Do I need to redrill the track bar axle mount?
It does appear the track bar to axle mount may have bored out a bit. It appears tight though. Any thoughts? Also, how can you tell if the track bar tie rod end is bad?
As I said I got the lift off craigslist and the owner must have lost the extended sway bar link to sway bar mounting brackets. I homefabbed some that I think turned out nicely but could this be the culprit? should I just get the originals from RC? I saw a few threads on homebuild discos(mine are not discos, but still homefab), so I'm not sure if this would affect the death wobble? If so, what do I need to make sure my mounts have, etc.
I got the alignment done and they didn't say anything about the tie rods being bad. How do I check to see if they are?
If a steering box is going out can this cause death wobble? It appears that the seal on the bottom of mine may be out as there is some grease coming out of it. Will this affect anything?
There is some minimal play in the wheel hubs, you can tell by movement in the wheel when rocking it from the top and bottom of the tire on a jack stand. I'm not sure to what level they are supposed to be free and what level means they are bad. There is some road noise but I can't tell if it is the tires, the fact that its a jeep, or if its the hubs.
Thank you very much for the help, and I apologize for the short novel. I am just trying to get this cured as it is my dd and I don't feel safe driving a death wobble machine. I am sure there are also some others out there who could benefit from this thread. All this wobbling has made me question selling the xj. Don't want too, but if its not fixed soon I need something reliable to drive 5 hours back to college come end of winter break.
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,842
Likes: 2
From: Loveland CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
Do u have a upgraded steering stabilizer ? If your driving fine , hit a bump, then get death wobble , that's bumpsteer Well at least that is what mine was. And I bought one from RC (a steering stabilizer) and it went away. I'm at 4.5 lift ......... Idk man sorry
#4
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 460
Likes: 2
From: Long Island NY
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
did you replace the track bar? or the bushings. also if you lifted you need to re drill your bottom bracket or install a adjustable one or adjustable with drop mount (prefered)
#5
To the OP
Always start with The Big 3 T's:
1. Trackbar (mounts loose, holes wallowed out, and joints)
2. Tie-Rod Ends (worn out, loose, excessive play)
3. Toe-in (should be 1/16"-1/8")
Since you already read a few death wobble threads you should now know that steering stabilizers are a band-aid that mask problems with the steering system. Do not install a new stabilizer in attempt to cure the problem, you're money can be put to better use.
#6
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, Tx
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I know that stabilizers only mask the real problem, so I'm trying to fix it before that. I am aware of what to check, as I have read all the other threads. My main questions are how as are asked in my original post. I have very specific questions I'd like to try and get answered as oppossed to general death wobble causes. Thanks for all the input though guys!
#7
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by TheGreatGazoo
did you replace the track bar? or the bushings. also if you lifted you need to re drill your bottom bracket or install a adjustable one or adjustable with drop mount (prefered)
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#8
Have an assistant turn the steering wheel rapidly back an forth while you look at, listen to, and feel all of the related steering componenets. Pay particular attention to the trackbar and it's cooresponding mounting points.
Swaybar links have no effect on inducing or reducing Death Wobble.
If you suspect a bad joint, disconnect/remove it and see how easily it moves.
Swaybar links have no effect on inducing or reducing Death Wobble.
If you suspect a bad joint, disconnect/remove it and see how easily it moves.
#9
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 460
Likes: 2
From: Long Island NY
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My kit said it was a 13/32 hole i have a 4.5" lift. 3/4" drilled to the right of the existing hole. You may only have to go 1/2" over. what i would do is park on level ground wheels stright roll foward and back a few times to un bind anything if you didnt pull in stright and then remove the bottom track bar bolt. the track bar just might move a little. about a half inch or so. that would be aprox ammount to drill your new hole no more than 3/4". Best time to check your track bar for ANY loose play at all. if so replace it
#10
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, Tx
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
My kit said it was a 13/32 hole i have a 4.5" lift. 3/4" drilled to the right of the existing hole. You may only have to go 1/2" over. what i would do is park on level ground wheels stright roll foward and back a few times to un bind anything if you didnt pull in stright and then remove the bottom track bar bolt. the track bar just might move a little. about a half inch or so. that would be aprox ammount to drill your new hole no more than 3/4". Best time to check your track bar for ANY loose play at all. if so replace it
#12
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by TheCK4x4
Oh well I tried , sorry.
Ps it's a RC stabilizer the one that's like 25$ it's white lol
Ps it's a RC stabilizer the one that's like 25$ it's white lol
#14
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 460
Likes: 2
From: Long Island NY
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
as long ar your bar is good with no play and the lower bushing is good use it.
#15
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by danjr2010
Is it bad to go back with a new factory track bar? I'm not planning on going any higher on lift and drilling isn't a problem. If not any help on finding a cheap adjustable one? Kind of on a time crunch as well in getting this taken care of.