Yes most people lock rear unless they have an LSD already.

With that in mind, if you have a D35C rear axle, I have a used for one month Spartan Locker for sale, $215 shipped. (shameless plug)

I swapped rear axles to an 8.25 and now I don't need the locker from my old setup.

 

No there's not. It all depends. I think front is better. I can't even til it's there when I'm diving til I put it in 4. With a rear u can feel it while daily driving. It's up to you. Everyone has a different opinion

 

I wouldn't assume I am lacking knowledge since my XJ is on 31's , If you do I'm sorry you don't know what other rig's I've built or where I've wheeled . I've only had This XJ a few months an will be the 5th Jeep I am building An I've been working in the automotive and offroad industry for years , When I lived back east when I had spare time I, competed, Judged, and spotted at the Neuroc, RCROC's, Uroc events ! Your acting like you are superior since you have 35's on your XJ so you must know more than me since Im on 31's You have a lot to learn


MY YJ was on 35's with deaver springs D30/D44 with 4.88's ARB's front held chromoly shafts inner and outter, The rear was sporting a 35 spline arb and 35spline dutchman axleshafts , (I bet you didn't even know they existed)

My TJ had 33's 4" short arm that started out as skyjacker and ended up RE 4.5" It had 4.88's with lockrites front and rear for a few about a year then I got sick of the quirks so I replaced them with ARB's

I guarantee if you go to a select-able locker in the front you'll never go back to a lunchbox in the front again !


Here's some pics of the other rigs I've built in the past 10 years 1

 

Oh my gosh those thing are huge.... You really know what tour talking about then ...

 

Well I figured since you obviously know what your talking about an posted pics of your rig flexing on SLICK ROCK i'd post pics of Jeep's I've built !

BTW I'm curious how are 12" Subs going to help you off road, Do you take them out and throw them under the tires when you find rocks to stack .

 

No they help me get *****. Which u don't on 31s.

 

The **** is going on in this thread?

 

its infested with **** now.. I think this thread should get locked

 

I don't want bad info out on the forum. There is nothing wrong with only a front locker. It helps just as much as a rear locker maybe more. This genius said it will make u just slide around. That's not true.

 

I ran only a front spartan locker for a month before welding my rear, and it was awesome. I haven't had a single problem or regret. Being locked front and rear is the best though

 

your first comment proves you are obviously young i hope one day you grow up !

Btw you missed the fact that the jeeps that kept having the front wash out were on an off camber slab of granite rock while it was snowing on and of all day ! If you did not know granite is very slick when compared to slick rock which has endless traction cause it is as rough as 200 grit sandpaper even while wet !

 

The pissing match you both are in makes you both look foolish. Stop pointing the finger at each other and get over it. Opinions are like #$% holes, everyone has them...

I am locked F+R, both lunchboxes, I drive in Utah. I know how to drive and have NO issues in the snow/rain/sun/overcast/ect. Having an auto locker just takes a competent driver. You have to know what it feels like to break traction and when its about to. Would I let my wife Take my jeep in the snow? NO, as she doesn't understand what/why and doesn't care to. However I have no issues and LOVE my F+R lockers, I also have never had sliding issues on or off road wet or dry, in the front or rear. the front pulls up and over, the rear pushes threw. if its sliding its more then likely a throttle issue, due to lack of gearing, experience, control ect.

I can't feel my rear locker on the pavement. no pops/bangs unloading or anything.... its a spartan, only LB I would recommend. Can't speak for road manners of a front as I have locking hubs, but off road My lock-right (front) makes all sorts of noises and pops, but it does just pull all day long... I've seen issues with Aussies... but that's supposedly fixed now that they can use there special Australian metal.

*edit* I have an automatic, which can make above statements a bit different then a manual. Manual drivers complain a little more about auto lockers being Jerky and are harder to keep traction in certain wet/slick conditions with how much a clutch can be on/off, also magnified if gearing isn't there to keep it slow and smooth.

LSD's are ok for pavement, but lacking when in a loose terrain or when a tire lifts off the ground, better then nothing but nothing like a locker.

Lunchbox lockers are great for a budged mod for better traction.

A full bodied locker like a Detroit/grizzly ect are awesome, a bit stronger then a lunchbox.

Eaton E-lockers are great, Never seen an issue and would only recommend this for a selectable.

ARB's are lame IMO leaky o-rings and air lines, with a loud compressor.

OX lockers are ok, but have cable adjustment issues and cables stretch.

For what diff to lock first? I would lock the rear, that's what I did and Loved it. It left the front end able to turn without a fight. The road manners are almost not even noticeable of any change with a locked rear. I also liek to think of it this way... which axle is most likely to lift a tire first? the coil front? or the leaf rear? in most cases the rear will lift first.

 

Thank you! glad to see we are back on topic haha. I think I'm going to go with rear lockers for now.

 

Lock the rear man. I would go full case locker. Strength. I run Yukon grizzly lockers front and rear. Don't bother me at all. I have lock outs up front so obviously I don't notice that one at all on the road. Makes it a little tough to turn offroad at times but I don't ever wish I didn't have it.

 

Your an arogant jerk f+ck