a buddy of mine just got a clayton 4 link rear spring kit that I had a chance to test out this weekend..I am sold!!! my question are these..1. is the rear coil conversion kit worth it? and are further wheel well modifications necessary for the added articulation? 2. the benefiets of the 3 link vs the 4 link?

This is not a daily driver, however needs to be dependable for up to 200 miles of highway driving at a time and 40+ miles of washboard road at 35mph to get to some of the hunting/crawl areas i frequent. I am running 33 12;50, dana 30hp super kit w ox front, ford 8.8 super kit w ox in back 4:56 gears currently on short arms and 6" of lift...going to go with the clayton 6.5' longarms.

not intersted in other kits (i have my mind made up on the clayton) just which kit to go with based on my specs. hopefully there are some of you running these that can give some opinions... TIA

 

sorry about the spelling in the title...I can't figure out how to edit it!

 

Search for N2Ojeep. He has a coil conversion rear and works at a 4x4 shop. He can awnser any question you have on this.

 

Clayton's makes jamb up stuff. I don't personally run it but have several friends that do.

I'm all for the 3 link front and triangulated 4 link rear.

Is it worth it? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what you do with it.

IMO, a full bodied rig isn't going to benefit much from it.

Wheel well mods: That depends greatly on your tire size, lift, desires. I'd bump stop and leave it like it is but that means you're only gaining down travel.

Moral: If you leaf springs are still in good shape I'd keep them. If they're in need of replacement then go for it.

Also, Clayton's makes good stuff but I'd build the rear 4-link myself.

 

No benefit on a full bodied rig? So if you built a 4 link rear would you stretch it and tuck the gas tank to make it worth it? Traction bar even if it is double tri? What about buying the truss and rear xmember and building your own links? Limit strap to limit diff droop? How would you do it

 

sorry for the bump, but looking to do this in the next week or so and was hoping for a few more opinions...i think money is going to prevent me from the coil conversion at this time, but how about opinions on the 3 link vs 4 link front?

 

nvrmnd

 

Luv my rear 4-link!

 

What? Slow down.

 

Do the 3 link front. Clayton is one of the few companies that offers a true 3 link and 4 link unlike most other manufacturers that only offer inferior radius arm set ups.

I personally love running a 3 link and would never look at going to a 4 link in the front unless I was only doing high speed desert racing where rough jumps and high speed impacts were a concern. A properly designed 3 link does not lose any stability or handling on the road and it will perform better then a 4 link off road where high amounts of flex and binding are a concern.

I personally have daily driven my rig lifted 7" with 3 link front and rear leafs running 35" KM2s and a track width of 77". Plenty stable with me even without sway bars. This next build is going to have my tri 4 link conversion in the rear with 14" coilovers. I am lowering it to 5.5" and 37s though to lower center of gravity for added stability.

A linked rear suspension has many advantages over leafs, not just flex. They are well worth it on a full bodied rig. A few advantages would be 0 axle wrap, lessened wheel hop with a properly designed link set compared to leafs, the ability to adjust anti squat, more options for proper tuning between spring rates and shock valving, and of course; more controlled flex.

Sorry for the book I just typed. lol

 

The 3 link vs 4 link argument has been run into the ground on every forum including this one.

There are pros and cons to both.

 

A proven 3 link front will more then handle anything in the desert. I destroyed a rockjock 60 with my 3 link by ramming a well hidden boulder at johnson valley 3 days before 2012 EMC race, and it even hit the driverside, which was the side without the upper.

The jeep hit Hard and the rear end came up about 4ft and pivoted over to the pass side and the jeep landed at 90deg from where it was aimed before we hit it.

The orbital eye joint on the lower on that side was a bit tweaked, but not one break in the susp. The only issue, a RJD60 that broke, and control arm ends that had the hardware bowed in them, but still torqued down and working fine.




Only items that were replaced, Axle housing, lower control arm joints and hardware. All the brackets, ALUM arms, and mounts were just fine, and still are to this day.

I my self would Never run a radius arm design, as well as most Any desert racer in the last dozen years, that purpose builds. There must be a reason? I mean a radius arm is so much easier and cheaper, but no one wants it in their desert racing rig, Ummmm...

I would look into Rock Krawler. They have proven their design, and I have proven its strong enough for anything Your jeep will see.

 

Show of hands......

How many people put their rig through the abuse that a race rig see's?

 

You say your buddy just did the conversion and you had a chance to check it out. You then go on to say that you're sold on the idea. That's cool no problem with that, but you then ask if it's worth it and what people's opinions are. Should you do it or not? Well either you're sold on it or you aren't sure and you would like people's opinions...lol. Just breaking your chops no offense intended.

 

Check the post date. You're breaking someone's chops from 10 years ago that hasn't been active since 2015...