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LOW COG suspension setup tricks/tips (REVISED 9-24-12)
11-10-2013, 03:25 AM
#226
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Hey guys I had a couple of questions. I will be buying a 3inch lift along with some 33 x 12.5 tires here in the next month or two. I plan on getting 10 inch travel shocks as well as buying bump stops that are two inches longer than stock which will equate to less up travel but more droop. That will work right because from what I've read that is what your supposed to do. Also I should be getting the 2 inch longer bump stops front and rear correct? Since I'll be running more droop I'm thinking the stock brake lines aren't going to be long enough? Any suggestions for some cheap brake lines that are longer? Again, I'll need them for the front and rear right? And by cheap I mean I don't care if they braided, rubber is fine with me for now. Thanks fellas!
Shayn
Shayn
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=21451_0_0_
11-26-2013, 04:19 PM
#229
Senior Member
11-26-2013, 04:44 PM
#231
Senior Member
11-26-2013, 06:01 PM
#232
MJ>XJ
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Griffin, G.A.
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
No different then what ya got now... it's the diff sizes u gotta worry about and a 44 ain't nothing to worry about... buy TnT truss and weld it on... bolt in from there... Tj's and Jk's run 44's with no issues stock... no different...
11-26-2013, 06:04 PM
#234
Senior Member
Screw that. I do completely get what your saying but my jeep won't fly to often. It doesn't need to be bolt on. I have a welder, 3 link with ballistic fabs coil/shock mounts. And a link tower. Rock that out. Long term planning for next spring.
11-26-2013, 06:41 PM
#235
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
The truss is weld on but for the money it makes everything else so much easier... no angle guessing and junk... to each their own though... Once I learned Dana 44's share the same axle joints as a Dana 30 I lost thought of ever doing a 44 swap in the first place... but that's just me and my experiences... trusses do more than Just keep from bending on jumps... helps with torque twist... diff flex... stuff like that... sounds like you'll be aight though...
11-26-2013, 06:49 PM
#236
Senior Member
The truss is weld on but for the money it makes everything else so much easier... no angle guessing and junk... to each their own though... Once I learned Dana 44's share the same axle joints as a Dana 30 I lost thought of ever doing a 44 swap in the first place... but that's just me and my experiences... trusses do more than Just keep from bending on jumps... helps with torque twist... diff flex... stuff like that... sounds like you'll be aight though...
But I could do some serious turd polishing at that point. Chromos 760s and beefing up the lower mounts and the upper. Beat it till I go stupid big.
11-26-2013, 07:21 PM
#237
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
All about tire size to me... my opinion is Dana 30 to 35's then Dana 60 for 37's and up... diff strength don't matter if the weak links the joints
11-26-2013, 07:24 PM
#238
Senior Member
I could make a 30 live with 35s forever. I'm easy on my rig. Maybe rock even 36s.
Save my pennies do a crawl box. Keep it so I'm not running it as hard as possible.
11-27-2013, 06:56 AM
#239
Former Sponsor
Join Date: May 2010
Location: meriden Ct
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That statement is completely backwards. You understand the crawl box would be multiplying torque to the axle correct? So what seems like easier crawling is just more leverage on everything. It would be much worse with more reduction.
11-27-2013, 07:01 AM
#240
Senior Member
I see. I got that from the pirate dana 30vs dana 44 thread. A few people said it would be easier to run a tough gear set and not the deepest possible gears.