thanks guys

this pic might be a lil useful to ya.

i no longer have the jeep anymore, but my new xj might be getting similar treatment when the time comes.

 

Any pics of upper mounts?

 

thats all i got

 

Can you explain the upper mount.

 

nice
i liked the way you set up the thread as a FAQ, it helped out better than just throwing the info out there

i was thinking for the future of my rig, will be 3" long armed 35"s max tire

 

its 2x6" x 1/4" box steel cut in an "L" shape welded to some 1/8" steel thats plated to the frame

the shock eye fits in the 2x6 perfectly

 

Ktmracer419 your advice has so-far proved invaluable however im in a bit of a pinch right now and could really use some guidance. When I first seen this post I knew that this was the setup I wanted.
This is what I have so far in my jeep Cherokee 4.5 inch lift all suspension from rough country 30x9.5 kumo mud terrains a few other do dads but nothing that applies to the topic at hand.

I drive pretty frequently on the road and having a low cog is important to me. I just got a great deal on some 35"x1250 all-terrain tires with about 3" of backspacing they fit really snug so i trimed the front wheel well, it resembles your previous jeep in a way except mine is a 2 door.

when I started to trim the rear fender I found that without disrupting the pinch seam and going into the body of the quarter panel I can only trim about 1" to 1.5" of metal off the body and when I mount the wheel it only has about 2 or 3 inches of movement I know im going to need bumpstops and farther traveling shocks but for now do I really only get a couple of inches for up travel before it starts to rub and create serious fender or tire damage?

If you did anything other than trim excess metal from you rear fender wells please tell me what. Or could you possibly provide a picture of what your rear tires looked like on level ground or just not flexed.

I do not mind them looking stuffed just so long as they still function.

Thank you very much
Steve F.

 

What gears do you run with 36's?

 

Great post. Thanks!

 

I really enjoy this write up and although you are running like 36's with a 3" lift, my goal is 35's with a 4.5 lift... What kind of gears are you running? I've heard that people runnin 33's with 4.56s and are topping out at 60 mph on the highway? fact or fiction? you tell me...

 

Great post!! I have been looking at a 3 inch lift and 33X12.50s so almost everything you covered applied to how I want to build my Cherokee.

 

60mph with 33's and 4.56's is 2200rpm... hardly top'd out.
I routinely run 2750-3000rpm on the interstate which works out to 75-80mph respectively.
The 4.0 has an over square design (short stroke) which keeps the piston speed down. In other words, the 4.0 can live a long and healthy life at 3000rpm.

 

KTMRACER419,

How much of your success with this particular setup derives from using full width axles? It seems that most of the big tire, low lift rigs that I have seen have full width axles, pirate4x4.com is littered with them.

Is this doable with stock axles, say Dana 30 and 8.25?

I currently have an RE 7.5 long arm and 35/12.5 Baja Claws (on 15x8 with 3.75" backspacing) and have given serious consideration to dropping down to either 4 or 4.5 springs by swapping the springs and bump stopping appropriately.

Cheers

 

Great thread. Lots of good info. Just got a quick question for everyone, would it be safe to run 12" travel shock on a RE 3.5" kit? I'm running 35s and will be bumpstopping accordingly. Just want to make sure my shocks won't bottom out. Anyone run that length shock with a 3.5" kit?

Thanks in advance.

 

I run 11" travel on 2.5" of lift, so the simple math works.
You really need to disconnect your current shocks and flex the rig out and measure collapsed/extended lengths.