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I put on the Cavfab crossover steering on my 2000 on 4.5 and 33s. Trac bar still seems good. Adjustable uppers and lowers. . . Everything seems tight. Oh and a steering box from redhead (amazing btw).
After i put the steering on it seems nice and buttery. Alignment is good enough for me, although it could be improved. I have the drag link on the top side of the drop pitman arm. . .which is also a little longer than stock.
Responsive enough but definitely a little play. However when I am going around 45 or 50 and hit a bump or pothole, it seems like the force throws my steering in a slightly different direction. Due to the play in steering my steering wheel doesn't move but its clear the steering itself changes direction. You really have to anticipate it or it really catches you off guard.
Could this be from not putting a stabilizer on the setup? Unidentitfied trac bar bushing bad? Had someone turn side to side looking at everything and there were no visible movements on anything. Slight click out of the heimjoint on the trackbar but that was there before the steering install.
Pretty sure u joints in my steering shaft are good but not 10000 percent sure.
Very little experience with your set up so take this with a grain of salt. But i just swapped out my seemingly stock stabilizer on my 00' with a OME one and holy crap. My steering wheel would jerk a lot over pot holes and stuff. Sounds fairly similar to what you're describing. It's definitely done that since I've bought it 7 years ago but never really thought into it until I realized WTH i was missing.
Very little experience with your set up so take this with a grain of salt. But i just swapped out my seemingly stock stabilizer on my 00' with a OME one and holy crap. My steering wheel would jerk a lot over pot holes and stuff. Sounds fairly similar to what you're describing. It's definitely done that since I've bought it 7 years ago but never really thought into it until I realized WTH i was missing.
No movement in steering wheel over bumps. The steering wheel basically stays in the same place but the tires take off in a slightly different direction. You have to catch it by moving the steering wheel to keep steady
No movement in steering wheel over bumps. The steering wheel basically stays in the same place but the tires take off in a slightly different direction. You have to catch it by moving the steering wheel to keep steady
See... Grain of salt lol. I don't think that's a steering stabilizer issue then.
I had the same issue and replacing my track bar pretty much resolved it. I didn't think anything was wrong with my current one either. One of the local 4x4 shops that I deal with recommended that I replace the one that has the heim joint at the frame side with one that has a poly bushing instead. I didn't really believe it would make a difference, but it did. When I installed it, I also was able to re-center my front axle. It was only about 3/4" off. Not sure which helped with the issue I was having or a combination of both, but it made a world of difference. You wouldn't think that just little things like that make such a huge difference, but it really does. Check to make sure your axle is still centered after replacing the steering. It could be just that little bit of difference throwing things out of whack. All the great parts in the world aren't worth a dime if things aren't lined up properly.
I had the same issue and replacing my track bar pretty much resolved it. I didn't think anything was wrong with my current one either. One of the local 4x4 shops that I deal with recommended that I replace the one that has the heim joint at the frame side with one that has a poly bushing instead. I didn't really believe it would make a difference, but it did. When I installed it, I also was able to re-center my front axle. It was only about 3/4" off. Not sure which helped with the issue I was having or a combination of both, but it made a world of difference. You wouldn't think that just little things like that make such a huge difference, but it really does. Check to make sure your axle is still centered after replacing the steering. It could be just that little bit of difference throwing things out of whack. All the great parts in the world aren't worth a dime if things aren't lined up properly.
Interesting. I do have the heim joint at the frame side. Can you share what trac bar you went with? Also curious what you actually did to re-enter your axle if you dont mind sharing?
Interesting. I do have the heim joint at the frame side. Can you share what trac bar you went with? Also curious what you actually did to re-enter your axle if you dont mind sharing?
I went with the RC Adjustable track bar that has the collar on it so you can adjust it without having to remove it. I have a 6.5" long-arm kit so went with the one that is for a 4-6.5 lift.
I know some more seasoned wheelers frown upon RC products, but there are some things that I like from them, and this was recommended. I was looking to correct some clunking noises that were driving me nuts when I had the sway bars disconnected, and was told that it could possibly be that heim joint had too much play in it and to replace it with a solid end. It was just an opinion of my shop that they didn't care for the heim joint for that application. After I installed it, I did a home alignment for toe in, then measured the distance from the frame to the brake rotor and found that my passenger side was in about 3/4" further. It didn't seem like that was a big deal to me, and I figured that small of a difference could just be the result of not getting a perfect measurement, but a few turns on the track bar adjustment collar and I was able to get it to just about dead on the same distance on each side. Didn't drive it until the next day, but when I did, that wandering issue had pretty much been eliminated. Don't know if it was the result of the track bar itself, or the adjustment, just know that it drove a lot better.
As someone else mentioned, you also need to ensure that your drag link and track bar angles are correct.
Geometry is really important on these things, and there are definitely a lot of people out there much more knowledgeable than I am about it, so I listen to them. I am just giving you an anecdotal opinion of what worked for me after reading your description of the issue you were having as maybe it will give you an option. I check all of my suspension components and make sure everything is torqued down after each wheeling trip. I would never have concluded the track bar as an issue just based on a visual inspection.
I went with the RC Adjustable track bar that has the collar on it so you can adjust it without having to remove it. I have a 6.5" long-arm kit so went with the one that is for a 4-6.5 lift.
I know some more seasoned wheelers frown upon RC products, but there are some things that I like from them, and this was recommended. I was looking to correct some clunking noises that were driving me nuts when I had the sway bars disconnected, and was told that it could possibly be that heim joint had too much play in it and to replace it with a solid end. It was just an opinion of my shop that they didn't care for the heim joint for that application. After I installed it, I did a home alignment for toe in, then measured the distance from the frame to the brake rotor and found that my passenger side was in about 3/4" further. It didn't seem like that was a big deal to me, and I figured that small of a difference could just be the result of not getting a perfect measurement, but a few turns on the track bar adjustment collar and I was able to get it to just about dead on the same distance on each side. Didn't drive it until the next day, but when I did, that wandering issue had pretty much been eliminated. Don't know if it was the result of the track bar itself, or the adjustment, just know that it drove a lot better.
As someone else mentioned, you also need to ensure that your drag link and track bar angles are correct.
Geometry is really important on these things, and there are definitely a lot of people out there much more knowledgeable than I am about it, so I listen to them. I am just giving you an anecdotal opinion of what worked for me after reading your description of the issue you were having as maybe it will give you an option. I check all of my suspension components and make sure everything is torqued down after each wheeling trip. I would never have concluded the track bar as an issue just based on a visual inspection.
Thanks for the input. I am on my 2nd RE Trac bar in too short of a time period so may give this a try. Also after EvanM's comment about geometry - i ran out at lunch and sure as ****, mine is off. I will do some tinkering around to correct that and see what it does - but probably try the new trac bar to - as this one is already popping a bit at the heim joint. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the input. I am on my 2nd RE Trac bar in too short of a time period so may give this a try. Also after EvanM's comment about geometry - i ran out at lunch and sure as ****, mine is off. I will do some tinkering around to correct that and see what it does - but probably try the new trac bar to - as this one is already popping a bit at the heim joint. Thanks for the info.
Yeah mine was popping too, even with my drag link angles all good with the track bar. Was really frustrating trying to track that down because when you are not moving and trying to inspect it, everything seemed just fine.
How do you know its off? Are both bars straight or do they have bends?
to me it does sound like track bar is causing steering imput, I'm beginning to wonder if all over the counter track bar steering kits are off even ones mentioned to work together.
I think you said your drag link is on top of the pitman arm. I think first thing I'd do is get a angle finder and see if they are actually off. If no angle finder available I'd put drag link under pitman. It's easy to do . Dont worry about the steering wheel being off center. Just take it for a test drive. If it's worse put it back.
Does track bar have mounting options?
When track and drag are parallel there wont be bump steer even with worn components
How do you know its off? Are both bars straight or do they have bends?
to me it does sound like track bar is causing steering imput, I'm beginning to wonder if all over the counter track bar steering kits are off even ones mentioned to work together.
I think you said your drag link is on top of the pitman arm. I think first thing I'd do is get a angle finder and see if they are actually off. If no angle finder available I'd put drag link under pitman. It's easy to do . Dont worry about the steering wheel being off center. Just take it for a test drive. If it's worse put it back.
Does track bar have mounting options?
When track and drag are parallel there wont be bump steer even with worn components
Taking a look at it I was mistaken. The drag link is mounted below the pitman arm. Its making a somewhat x with the trac bar -very far off from your description of how it should be. If I mount on top I think I will be parallel from the looks of it. After that I will have to check angles. And yes both bars have bends
Can you shar a picture
will be harder to measure angle since drag link heim is mounted vertical also hard to get visual on parallel with bent bars
Mines easy to see track and drag are parallel
Bends dont matter it's the angle from bolt to bolt. Straight bars are much easier to work with is all
So cav fab has drag link on top of knuckle tie rod under.
your running a factory track bar without drop bracket?
Factory drg link is mounted below knuckle.
You may actually be better off putting drag link ontop of knucke this should then just about match track bar if it's in factory mounting location. The angle needs to be steeper by the thickness of the knuckle arm.
just try it
This is what I think is going on. Angles slightly off due to raised drag link at the knucke.
So bolt to bolt its not as bad as i thought. I am running the re trac bar with facotry frame mount. Looks like if i either mount drag link below knuckle or above the drop pitman (which is also aftermarket for more drop) i should get closer to parallel. Looking through some cav fab installs they say typical installs put the drag link on the top sidr of the pitman arm so maybe i will.give that a try? Not sure if i need a new trac bar or not. Slight pop when turning sitting
**** if your under the pitman and have a dropped pitman thts it's you like 3.5" inches lower than the track bar. I think that would cause horrendous bump steer.
The hei at the pitman arm looks maxed out. Not sure it would be a good idea to raise it on top. Maybe it's not as maxed out as I think
07-27-2020, 08:15 PM
Odd behavior after cavfab crossover steering
