xj00

I should actually have plenty of room and the knuckle and th pitman to back the heims out and get on top of the pitman. I put that drop pitman arm when my stock drag link was maxed out.


Also the trac bar at the fram and the drag link at the pitman arm are at the same level. Its that the axle side of trac bar.mount is much lower than the drag link at the knuckle. If I moved the drag link on top of the pitman they would be parallel. Not exactly even with eachother but parallel. My drag link would be higher. Am I looking for them to match angles and position or more ensuring they are parallel?


Alternatively, a stock pitman arm would probably get me closer as well. Did I **** it up with the drop pitman I put on?

EvanM

Parallel. They dont have to be at the same position one could be a foot higher but if its parallel it doesnt matter.

Both bars need to be parralell because they swing in arc path when suspension cycles. If they arent parralell the drag link runs into the path the track bar swings in. The track bar is fixed on both ends so the drag link then moves out of the way (steers) to match the path the track bar is moving in.

Without a drop pitman and the drag link heim on top of the pitman I think youd be very close to parralell. My mind is getting confused on if this is right or not.

You basically took the factory steering and raised it on top of the knuckle, decreased its angle now track bar must match this angle, then added a dropped pitman further decreasing the angle. While leaving track bar as it was from the factory. So yes putting heim on top of pitman should help alittle. Stock pitman with heim on top would be about nuts on

EvanM

I should fab you a track bar and track drop frame side. But blank with no holes drilled then you bolt new track bar and bracket in. Set track bar to match drag link then drill your own holes

xj00

I'd be interested in that. The re **** heim joint track bars are trash

Think I will start with the stock pitman arm and seeanders that puts me. Have a parts jeep in the back field.

JK253

I wonder if that's why Iron Rock's has the drag link run under the knuckle with the tie rod on top, to align better with a traditional UTA track bar? Seems that most of these kits would be better with an OTA mount, that's how I did mine (CavFab also).

EvanM

My Cummins pickup has logged about 60k with 7/8 heims on the track bar with no apparent slop yet

Yes that's exactly why it's under.

EvanM

Jk253 at first glance I thught ummm no not parallel so I down loaded your picture going off the angle of the photo wich may throw what actually is off by some.
I'm not thinking your parralell holding a straight edge and trying to draw line point to point shows this difference it off parralell and opening up like a pie.
Remember this is going off a photo taken at an angle but is a very good example of what we dont want.


Photo is actually more straight on thn I thought. Maybe somenes got some photo editing software nd could draw these two lines accurately

Was there any specific reason you put the fox stabalizer on or just because?


Second attempt you may actually be closer to parallel.
This example is what were looking for

xj00

Good question on the stabilizer. Is there any practical application for one in this setup?

JK253

Yep, I'm aware. This was post-wash after a really rough trail that was mostly old river rock and it shook the hell out of everything, and one of the jam nuts worked its way loose so I just tightened it up. I just haven't bothered to realign it yet. It takes a bit of work to keep the heims clocked properly while tightening the jam nuts without the drag link turning so that by the time the jam nuts are tight, the bar hasn't become misaligned from the torque. Bent drag links are a pain, but I like my Anti-Rock.

EvanM

Stabalizer will soften bump steer alittle bit if its present.

We should call it track bar imput to the steering.

Drag link to the knuckle with over the axle steering mens drag link is longer than track bar by a fair amount. And also plays a role in steering imput as both bars swing in they're arc paths. But isnt as drastic as angles being off.

JK253

Yeah, it helps with general bump steer on the trails when you're running over a large rock or log and the steering wants to fight you by pushing the opposite direction. I went without one for a while and there's not much difference on the road other than when you hit large pavement ruts on the freeways. I won it as a giveaway prize so I figured what the hell...

xj00

Well thanks to another cherokee forum thread my problem seems to be rectified. Before pulling pitman arms and swapping i thought id throw the drag link on top of the drop pitman. Actually looks pretty darn good. Went for a drive and hit a bridge on a country paved road at 50 with basically zero bumpsteer. Thanks everyone. Maybe 1 day I will get a stabilizer, but for now will enjoy no bump steer and not risking death with every bump.

Is there any disadvantage to running on top of the pitman? The heim is about maxed out on bend angle and I could see a little wear when my passenger coil is extended and maxed out? Any thoughts on this?

EvanM

Sweet it does look good.
itl wear faster being maxed. Will just be until you lower track bar heck it might go for ever.

Whats your frame side track bar bolted to . Looks like a heim bolted in vertical in the factory position.

xj00

the lower side of trac bar is a plastic bushing to the factory mount. Would I want to mount it over the axle and move drag link back under oitman to avoid premature wear?

Or a drop bracket for frame mount side of tb?

EvanM

Easiest to do a drop on the frame side. If your parralell now theres no reason to drop it unless you run pitman heim underneath.

I was curious if it also has a drop on the frame side already, pretty sure I see a heime bolted on the frame side. It cant bolt to factory tierod mounting location. I think it may already have some kinda bracket.

I wouldn't change lower track bushing if it doesnt need it.