Pacesetter Headers?
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Pacesetter Headers?
Looking to put headers on my 1990 xj and this seems to be one of the only companies that makes them. Anyone have them or know of any others? Thanks in advance
#5
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Year: 1989
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the pacesetter header is pretty much the only option for the renix motor.
I've heard complaints that the y-pipe doesn't line up the the pipes on the header. And apparently there's a tendancy to leak at that joint.
The paint doesn't last for more than 1 heat cycle on the headers. But it's not designed to, unless you spring for the ceramic coated ones.
On that note, I purchased one and the y-pipe and header fitment was spot on, I plan on welding the y-pipe onto the header, to combat the potential leak problem, and then put a flange in after the collector. As for paint, I'm going to wire brush it all off then us some header paint, there's some decent stuff out on the market.
I've heard complaints that the y-pipe doesn't line up the the pipes on the header. And apparently there's a tendancy to leak at that joint.
The paint doesn't last for more than 1 heat cycle on the headers. But it's not designed to, unless you spring for the ceramic coated ones.
On that note, I purchased one and the y-pipe and header fitment was spot on, I plan on welding the y-pipe onto the header, to combat the potential leak problem, and then put a flange in after the collector. As for paint, I'm going to wire brush it all off then us some header paint, there's some decent stuff out on the market.
Last edited by Monster Mopar; 11-07-2011 at 11:05 AM.
#6
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Year: 1993
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i bought a set and love them they make it sound great and a little more peppy fitment wasnt spot on on my vehicle it hit my trans cooler lines so i had to run rubber lines to make it right
#7
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Originally Posted by Monster Mopar
the pacesetter header is pretty much the only option for the renix motor.
I've heard complaints that the y-pipe doesn't line up the the pipes on the header. And apparently there's a tendancy to leak at that joint.
The paint doesn't last for more than 1 heat cycle on the headers. But it's not designed to, unless you spring for the ceramic coated ones.
On that note, I purchased one and the y-pipe and header fitment was spot on, I plan on welding the y-pipe onto the header, to combat the potential leak problem, and then put a flange in after the collector. As for paint, I'm going to wire brush it all off then us some header paint, there's some decent stuff out on the market.
I've heard complaints that the y-pipe doesn't line up the the pipes on the header. And apparently there's a tendancy to leak at that joint.
The paint doesn't last for more than 1 heat cycle on the headers. But it's not designed to, unless you spring for the ceramic coated ones.
On that note, I purchased one and the y-pipe and header fitment was spot on, I plan on welding the y-pipe onto the header, to combat the potential leak problem, and then put a flange in after the collector. As for paint, I'm going to wire brush it all off then us some header paint, there's some decent stuff out on the market.
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#9
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Year: 1993
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I know I don't have the Renix motor so this won't directly fit your question. But this is just my experience with Pacesetter quality:
Just installed a Pacesetter 70-1191 on my 93' and after finding out the PO had snapped the rear stud and left it in there...I got a great local shop to drill it out for me. Thanks Jake and Don! (Sorry just had to vent that).
Here's my opinion of the pacesetter header:
Was really impressed with the quality of the welds and construction and was under the impression when I ordered it had a high heat black paint...wrong! Even had a freak'n sticker on the header that states "not high heat paint" WTF! why would any company that wants any kinda good rep waist time and money to paint a header with non high heat paint? Anyways...after suckin' paint fumes for a week while that crap burned off I'm reasonably happy with the header.
Good nice and sexy sound to it and no more exhaust leaks.
Just a couple notes on my install.
1. The pipe extention that is supposed to fit from the collector to the cat is crap because it's bent at the wrong angle.
2. Had to relocated the O2 sensor (welded into the collecter at a different location than the one provided by Pacesetter) vs lengthening the O2 wires. But that was just my preference. Either way it had to be modified so it's not necessarily a bolt on kit. FYI
3. Make sure to install a flex pipe. Didn't cost much and good investment. It may save the coin you just spent on the header kit.
4. Don't install in the winter unless you want paint fumes sucked into the cab every time you turn on the heater.
5. If I did it again I would have taken the time to remove the paint and paint myself with high heat ceramic.
All in all it's a good set-up after the fact and worth the investment but would probably go a different way next time. I don't have any experience with the APN but would buy that next based on all the good things I've read on here. Good luck!
Just installed a Pacesetter 70-1191 on my 93' and after finding out the PO had snapped the rear stud and left it in there...I got a great local shop to drill it out for me. Thanks Jake and Don! (Sorry just had to vent that).
Here's my opinion of the pacesetter header:
Was really impressed with the quality of the welds and construction and was under the impression when I ordered it had a high heat black paint...wrong! Even had a freak'n sticker on the header that states "not high heat paint" WTF! why would any company that wants any kinda good rep waist time and money to paint a header with non high heat paint? Anyways...after suckin' paint fumes for a week while that crap burned off I'm reasonably happy with the header.
Good nice and sexy sound to it and no more exhaust leaks.
Just a couple notes on my install.
1. The pipe extention that is supposed to fit from the collector to the cat is crap because it's bent at the wrong angle.
2. Had to relocated the O2 sensor (welded into the collecter at a different location than the one provided by Pacesetter) vs lengthening the O2 wires. But that was just my preference. Either way it had to be modified so it's not necessarily a bolt on kit. FYI
3. Make sure to install a flex pipe. Didn't cost much and good investment. It may save the coin you just spent on the header kit.
4. Don't install in the winter unless you want paint fumes sucked into the cab every time you turn on the heater.
5. If I did it again I would have taken the time to remove the paint and paint myself with high heat ceramic.
All in all it's a good set-up after the fact and worth the investment but would probably go a different way next time. I don't have any experience with the APN but would buy that next based on all the good things I've read on here. Good luck!
Last edited by Click-Click-Pull; 12-18-2011 at 09:29 AM. Reason: FYI
#10
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pacesetters suck... i have installed a half dozen of them... step one grind all of the stepped washers out more so they put enough pressure on the header flange you will have to move your trans cooler lines on the renix to clear the o2 setup the give you...and i got rid of the egr system on the last renix i did
#11
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Year: 1998
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and click click pull is right the paint burn off is awful i thought the first one i did was burning up... and the mid pipe is junk... you really want fun try matching it up to the dynomax cat back... also junk
#12
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if you notice too they are a split setup too so the o2 is only on the one side theres alot of people who say on here it doesnt matter but i didnt want to take the chance i got the ones from ineedparts.com they are the same company as auto parts network and the look amazing the welds are amazing they used stainless everything is readdy to go and im gonna put them on here this week and they were under 200 shipped to the door
#13
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alloutperform if they suck so bad why would you deal with a half dozen of em, i would hope its cause they were going on other peoples vehicles and not repeatedly on yours or else you just dont learn.
ok with that out of the way i recently put one on mine [89 renix] and as stated the EGR tube will need to be reworked, i just cut it and rewelded it when it fit.
the Y-pipe was spot on and actually im unable to separate it after putting the clamps on too tight as i found out now that im doing a 5spd swap.
the cross over from the Y however was not bent at the correct angle as stated and didnt work with the automatic in there so what i did was chop out a section and weld in a flex pipe which i kinda wanted to do anyway seeing as the reason the factory manifolds crack so bad is because the exhaust is so rigid that the manifold ends up taking majority of the stress which results in the cracking
and you will need to run a universal O2 and extend the wires to reach the new bung down the pipe
and as for who ever was asking why a company would paint such a piece with regular paint in the first place, cause think about it, you have a bare metal welded piece if you dont slap paint on the thing its gunna rust by the time the customer gets it then they have people whining bout rusty products, if you want something that will stay on you should of coughed up extra for the ceramic coating, when i bought mine i dont recall being promised high heat paint in fact i do recall being told by the sales guy that i would need to paint it with VHT or something as its just regular paint on them when they ship.
if you want pics of what im talking bout i can get some for ya as its pretty open under there at the moment
ok with that out of the way i recently put one on mine [89 renix] and as stated the EGR tube will need to be reworked, i just cut it and rewelded it when it fit.
the Y-pipe was spot on and actually im unable to separate it after putting the clamps on too tight as i found out now that im doing a 5spd swap.
the cross over from the Y however was not bent at the correct angle as stated and didnt work with the automatic in there so what i did was chop out a section and weld in a flex pipe which i kinda wanted to do anyway seeing as the reason the factory manifolds crack so bad is because the exhaust is so rigid that the manifold ends up taking majority of the stress which results in the cracking
and you will need to run a universal O2 and extend the wires to reach the new bung down the pipe
and as for who ever was asking why a company would paint such a piece with regular paint in the first place, cause think about it, you have a bare metal welded piece if you dont slap paint on the thing its gunna rust by the time the customer gets it then they have people whining bout rusty products, if you want something that will stay on you should of coughed up extra for the ceramic coating, when i bought mine i dont recall being promised high heat paint in fact i do recall being told by the sales guy that i would need to paint it with VHT or something as its just regular paint on them when they ship.
if you want pics of what im talking bout i can get some for ya as its pretty open under there at the moment
#14
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hey muddog i can't talk all off my customers out of them and it's not like a small block chevy where we have 5,000,000 options... they do suck you have the same gripes we all did but can be made to work... doesn't change the fact that it's a product sold as "direct fit" to our jeeps and well it doesn't. if you go into it knowing the issues it makes life better...
#15
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hey muddog i can't talk all off my customers out of them and it's not like a small block chevy where we have 5,000,000 options... they do suck you have the same gripes we all did but can be made to work... doesn't change the fact that it's a product sold as "direct fit" to our jeeps and well it doesn't. if you go into it knowing the issues it makes life better...