ZJ Tie Rod Upgrade
#91
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Originally Posted by GS Audio
Oh....an let me help the XJ owners looking to do a full overhaul like I am doing. Here's the parts list (with ZJ upgrade parts):
All Moog p/n's for a 96 XJ Sport
Upper BJ - K3134T
Lower BJ - K3161T
Tie rod - DS1238
Tie Rod (end) (qty 2) - ES3096L
Track Bar - DS1235
Tie Rod Sleeve (qty 2) - ES2079S
Tie Rod (ZJ upgrade - replaces DS1326S and ES3095R) - DS1312
Best source to confirm your specific model is this Moog site:
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/default.asp
All Moog p/n's for a 96 XJ Sport
Upper BJ - K3134T
Lower BJ - K3161T
Tie rod - DS1238
Tie Rod (end) (qty 2) - ES3096L
Track Bar - DS1235
Tie Rod Sleeve (qty 2) - ES2079S
Tie Rod (ZJ upgrade - replaces DS1326S and ES3095R) - DS1312
Best source to confirm your specific model is this Moog site:
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/default.asp
Please see the revised list above.
I just had all this stuff install on Friday and found out that I had one incorrect TRE.
When upgrading to the ZJ TRE (DS1312), you no longer need TRE ES3094L. The ES3094L is the thinner TRE that mounts to the old thin hollow XJ tube. I wasn't aware when I ordered this, so was short one.
The above list in quotes is the complete list you need.
XJ now drives 100% better. When in there, I had the spicer joints and hub bearing replaced as well.
Just an FYI....
I just had all this stuff install on Friday and found out that I had one incorrect TRE.
When upgrading to the ZJ TRE (DS1312), you no longer need TRE ES3094L. The ES3094L is the thinner TRE that mounts to the old thin hollow XJ tube. I wasn't aware when I ordered this, so was short one.
The above list in quotes is the complete list you need.
XJ now drives 100% better. When in there, I had the spicer joints and hub bearing replaced as well.
Just an FYI....
I'm really trying to find these parts locally today.
#92
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You only need one tre, and one adjuster sleeve and the rod itself. Unless you plan on replacing the drag link, in which case you need 2 sleeves. But the stock drag link is already solid.
#93
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Cool.
Yeah, I couldn't find the Tie Rod locally, it was special order (but they had the end, go figure...), so I went to the pick n pull and grabbed an excellent condition ZJ V8 rod for $16. It does need boots though, one is torn and one is pretty thin in a spot. I might just put poly boots on it if I can't find those locally.
I saw what you meant about the TRE and sleeve on the drag link. Thanks for the info.
Yeah, I couldn't find the Tie Rod locally, it was special order (but they had the end, go figure...), so I went to the pick n pull and grabbed an excellent condition ZJ V8 rod for $16. It does need boots though, one is torn and one is pretty thin in a spot. I might just put poly boots on it if I can't find those locally.
I saw what you meant about the TRE and sleeve on the drag link. Thanks for the info.
#94
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
What's the difference between the "LONG" v8 tie rod kit and the normal one ? Here's a link to the long one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-NEW-TIE...item519cb87396
Someone help me out, I'm trying to figure it out but no go, can't find any info so I thought id come to the guru's to find out..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-NEW-TIE...item519cb87396
Someone help me out, I'm trying to figure it out but no go, can't find any info so I thought id come to the guru's to find out..
#95
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The v8 grand cherokee the tie rod is a little thicker and is a solid bar where as the 6cyl is a hollow tube and a little thinner od.
#96
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by jeepride
The v8 grand cherokee the tie rod is a little thicker and is a solid bar where as the 6cyl is a hollow tube and a little thinner od.
#97
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
I think they just mean that it's the long side of the tie rod. The tie rod has an end made on to it, and it is about 5x longer than the driver's side, which is a more conventional (meaning ~6"-10" long) end.
If I were to break it down for someone that didn't know, I'd call the passenger side the "long" end, then the sleeve, then the driver's side "short" end.
The Pick N Pull also got cranky about this, I wanted the ends for $6 each as advertised... They finally got tired of trying to looking it up and said "how about $16!"
If I were to break it down for someone that didn't know, I'd call the passenger side the "long" end, then the sleeve, then the driver's side "short" end.
The Pick N Pull also got cranky about this, I wanted the ends for $6 each as advertised... They finally got tired of trying to looking it up and said "how about $16!"
#98
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#99
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#101
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My problem is that NO ONE had it in stock, and the total cost was like $160 for Moog stuff. The advertising propaganda also said something about Moog using certain metals and processes that inferior brands didn't use. For the money I spent, everything seems super tight, with only thin spots on the boots. I'll replace the boots, slap it on, and see what I have. Wish me luck.
#102
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Yup, you're right. That is what it means. It is just the description of the 1 of 2 parts "plus the sleeve". The 6cyl and V8 are the same length, it's just the shape and design that is different. Hollow vs. Solid steel and bigger. The tube 6cyl one is awful, it flexes really bad and is easily bent. I just bought all new stuff from Autozone and it bolted right up and has been great.
I think they just mean that it's the long side of the tie rod. The tie rod has an end made on to it, and it is about 5x longer than the driver's side, which is a more conventional (meaning ~6"-10" long) end.
If I were to break it down for someone that didn't know, I'd call the passenger side the "long" end, then the sleeve, then the driver's side "short" end.
The Pick N Pull also got cranky about this, I wanted the ends for $6 each as advertised... They finally got tired of trying to looking it up and said "how about $16!"
If I were to break it down for someone that didn't know, I'd call the passenger side the "long" end, then the sleeve, then the driver's side "short" end.
The Pick N Pull also got cranky about this, I wanted the ends for $6 each as advertised... They finally got tired of trying to looking it up and said "how about $16!"
#104
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
Originally Posted by J308
Yes, that's exactly what I picked up from the junkyard, except it was assembled and was $16.
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
#105
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Ok so I'm assuming this (link i posted previously) is the outer drag link that goes from one hub to the other hub. Will I also need the other tie rod setup that goes from the draglink to the pitman arm? If so can someone post a link possibly?
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
Thanks for all the help guys!!!
This was posted in my thread, but I had seen it before in my research. I'll post it here for you to look at.
The link you have posted above is the Tie Rod, sleeve, and TRE.
The Drag Link has an eye in the middle of it for the steering stabilizer to bolt. Go lay down and look under yours for a minute and you'll see how it's laid out. On my 94, it has a solid drag link, which I read is the same as the ZJ part, so no need to upgrade, but IIRC it varies by year so you might want to search if yours is older than mine. The second TRE is between the Pitman Arm and the Drag Link arrows in that illustration. So TRE#2 is actually on the Drag Link and not the Tie Rod, if that makes sense.
What I did was jack it up by the front diff, and shake the wheels by hand at 9and3 and 12and6. I had no movement, so I went to the junkyard, shook the hell out of a couple of tie rods, found one that looked in great condition and had no play that I could feel, hear, or see, and bought it. So I'll replace that next weekend probably, and then get an alignment and see where I'm at.