2015 Cherokee Limited V6 AWD ADII with 64k miles

There was nothing wrong with the car, other than the original 5 year old battery stopped working. I replaced the battery with a new Interstate H7 (94R) AGM battery from Costco. Now the car has a bunch of error codes. It seems to be in some sort of limp mode. The dash says 4x4 disabled, parking brake needs service... among other things. The mileage is blinking. If I put it in drive, the "D" is blinking. I have attached a picture of the long list of error codes.

Is there some sort of simple ecu reset that would solve this? This just doesn't make sense to me.
The only thing anybody has told me is to have it towed to a shop
Any help would be greaty appreciated!!!!
Thank you


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I don't know much about the KL model, but you could try disconnecting the negative battery cable and letting it sit overnight, then try again.

 

Disconnect the cables and let it sit for awhile. The computer can be very sensitive when you disconnect and install a new battery. When I did the battery on my 2014 KL V6 AD2, I got the 4wd service light, and that was about it. Disconnect it and let it sit for an hour, and try hooking it up again.

 

I tried that again today. I disconnected the battery and left it for 6 hours. I reconnected the battery and have all the same problems.

 

Guys, he replaced the battery, it was disconnected! After replacement the KL can exhibit odd behavior for several driving cycles as the PCM gets used to all that voltage again. These vehicles are very sensitive to voltage and behave oddly if there is much variance. Try driving it around for an hour with several on/off cycles and see if it comes around.


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I should have clarified. When I first reconnected the battery after replacing it, I had the service 4wd light. When I disconnected the battery again and then reconnected, it had cleared itself. He may have to hook up to it with a scanner and clear all the codes, or like you said, drive it with several on/off cycles. The new Cherokee's are quite different than replacing the battery on older ones, as far as computer codes and sensitivity.

 

It will drive but seems to be in limp mode. It is a heavy clunk into Drive and it won't go above 2500 rpm's. The "D" for drive is blinking the whole time. I just drove it to drop it off at the shop. I'll let you know what they say for your own entertainment, if nothing else.

 

The car is finally fixed and back to normal. For anybody that is interested, here's how it was resolved:
I replaced the battery with an AGM battery (YES, you need to get the AGM). Mine was $175 from Costco. After that I had more than 20 implausible codes in almost every module.
I called the local Jeep dealership. They had no idea what I was talking about but they were willing to take a look at the car in 4 days for $89.99. I did not go this route.
I took it to a local reputable shop that is FCA certified. Apparently this means they have paid FCA $6000 so they can use the FCA software that is needed on all FCA cars. It sounds like FCA is trying to make it difficult for the shops (and impossible for me) to do many diagnoses and some (VERY SIMPLE) repairs. What we are talking about in this case is more like regular maintenance, not repair.
Anyway, they charged me $90 for 1 hour of labor. The mechanic told me that to avoid this, I need to connect the car to a battery supply BEFORE changing the battery. This allows all PCM to retain all saved settings.

My advice: check your battery and have it replaced BEFORE it dies completely. You can't replaced your own battery unless you are able to plug in a power source to you PCM!! I never tested my 5 yr old battery. One sign I had that it was on it's way out: the Auto Start-Stop (A.S.S. feature) was always alerting me that it was disabled.

 

I’m glad that worked for you, but clearly others did not have to connect the PCM to a backup battery when replacing the main battery - a great many have done it. Odd, but it’s probably a good idea to do that.


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Solar company makes an adapter for you to use in this situation, part# ESA30. It is an OBD2 end that plugs into the vehicle port, and the other end is a 12 volt plug that you can plug into a jump box.