Hi all. I'm considering getting a KL Cherokee as a daily driver and for towing a utility trailer with a UTV on it, total weight about 2,000lbs.
Do we have a thread or two here with a collection of towing information? I'd like to hear others experience with lighting hookups, braking, AutoDrive II settings, etc.

I did find this video on YouTube that was very informative, but it's the 4-cyl. engine not the V6:
Tanks and Jeeps!

 

I towed a 1,400 lb vintage travel trailer from So Cal to Seatle, Washington.

Twice

This is what I did to ensure that I had no troubles on those trips.

1) If your trailer has brakes, Use them. Buy one of those trailer brake controllers. There are two types of trailer brake controller. Proportional and Time Delay. Proportional relies on gravity and a swinging pendulum that applies the brakes to your trailer based on how hard you apply the brakes on your tow vehicle. Time Delay uses a preset time that it applies to the brakes based on how hard you apply the brakes on your tow vehicle.

I chose the Proportional. Even tho they tend to be more expensive. I wanted a controller that would respond to the way I drive rather then to a preset program.
Learn more about the different types of brake controllers here.

2) Spend the money on a set of tires designed for trailer use. Do NOT use passenger car tires on a trailer. Doing so is ASKING for a blowout. Passenger car tires (P) have weaker sidewalls. You need to ask for light truck tires (LT) or trailer tires (ST). Confirm this by looking at the tire designation written on the sidewall.
Learn how to read the codes on the sides of tires here.

3) Keep a trailers wheel bearings well greased. And if you go on a long trip. Bring along a pre-greased set and new cotter pin, so you don't end up stranded on a lonely highway out in the middle of no-where. They are easy to replace.

4) You shouldn't need a complicated anti-sway bar to stop your trailer from swaying. In my opinion, an anti sway bar is a band-aid to compensate for what's REALLY causing your trailer to sway. If your trailer is swaying, take a look at your trailers suspension and tires, it's weight distribution, and the height of your hitch first.

5) A trailers center of gravity is very important. How much weight is on the tongue (tongue weight) vrs on or behind the wheels can mean the difference between a smooth pulling trailer, and one that bounces and sways wildly behind you. I'm not kidding. I had that trailer loaded incorrectly when I started the first trip. And I knew why. I'd loaded a bunch of stuff inside and the back-end of the trailer was heavier then the tongue.

My trailer bucked and bounced and threatened to fishtail at speeds higher then 50 mph. I finally pulled over. Shifted some weight over till the trailer was heavier on the tongue then on the back-end.. and she pulled like a dream the rest of the trip. Nice and docile. Was able to cruise comfortably at 70 mph. Tho I didn't much.. because it's universally against the law across nearly every state along the west coast to pull a trailer faster then 55 mph.
Learn more about trailer weight distribution here.

And finally.. I like to carry the following when pulling a trailer on long hauls. (I don't bother with all this when puttering around town of course)
Wheel chocks
Spare tire
Jack
Pregreased bearings
One of those spare set of extra trailer lights. You know what I mean, they magnetize to the trailer bumper if for some reason, your stupid trailer lights stop working. It happens.

Here is where I bought my trailer stuff. It's also a great source for lots of trailer info.

There are hundreds of useful sights out there chock-full of useful information on how to properly pull a trailer. I just gave you a few to start.

 

Ooooo.. I forgot.

Ronin, Do you know if that KL Cherokee has a transmission cooler installed? Because if you plan to tow. That transmission would surely appreciate an auxiliary cooling radiator.

hope this helps some. Sorry I couldnt offer any advice on the Drive II.

 

Thanks, outersketcher, lots of info. to start with!
I drove big trucks for a few years, so I know some things about towing and trailers in-general, but I'm not that familiar with the finer details of smaller trailers. Good to know about the bearings and tires.

As I understand it, if I get the Trailer Package from Jeep when I buy/order a KL, it is much better than just adding a hitch onto any ol' Cherokee. The Trailer Package includes extra coolers for oil and transmission, and *I think* some different programming for the transmission as well...? That video I posted above notes that Sport Mode seems to work better when towing, it doesn't have an actual Tow/Haul Mode like my Dodge pickup has.

Been doing some research already (obviously) and I have heard of the ETrailer website.

 

Yah.. I'm a believer in getting the factory tow package. Get the vehicle set up for the stress properly from the get go. I think that's a wise decision Ronin.

 

Oh yeah... speaking of transmission cooler- One thing that really got my attention with the KL is the list of gauges available in the center of the dashboard EVIC display! Prominently noted is Transmission Temperature!!
EVERY vehicle should have these gauges available, imo. My Subaru has... an MPG meter! So help me I want to just shoot the dashboard...

 

Agree with the tow package, I'm sure you noticed the difference in tow capacity with and without it..... it's huge.

As far brake controllers go i would get the Redarc Tow Pro Elite, it's proportional and it's by far the smallest footprint brake controller you can get... no more trying to find a spot where your foot / knee won't hit or trying to modify your coin holder.. this thing is unbelievable. The only reason why I didn't get it is the only thing i tow is 800lbs so no brake controller needed.

The last piece of advise i would give is use the manual gear selector when going down hill. My KL has the 9 speed transmission and when i go down hilly terrain i will use manual and select anywhere from 3 to 5, keeps the speed down without using your brakes.

 

I have the V6 Trailhawk which has some extra cooling anyway, but no towing package.
I installed the factory hitch and Curt wiring.
I tow my Razor 570 on a Aluma trailer, total weight about 1400#'s, no problem.
But, I get better gas mileage towing it with my 4 cyl. Ford Escape, go figure!