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Posted this on B Lee's LA thread, figured I would copy and paste here as well:
I have a question for those that have had theirs a while now as well. My first upper heim lasted all of 3 days of street driving before developing a clunk. Ok, maybe bad heim from RS(I used RS heims right off the bat and saved the B Lee ones as spares), so warrantied the heim for a new one. Was doing good for a couple weeks until the jeeps first wheeling since rebuild, and now the second one is clunking even worse than the first.
I can crawl under the jeep and push/pull the upper arm and hear the clunking, however there is no visible play anywhere.
Being my first experience with heims, I don't know if it's ANOTHER bad heim from RS, the teflon liner wore too quick, not enough threads into the link(jam nut is on very tight), or just how heims sound after break in. It's obnoxiously loud in the cab, and can be heard even just driving down the road, not hitting bumps.
Insight from anyone would be awesome, I'm thinking of calling up B Lee and asking for an upper arm with a 7/8 heim, because my lowers have been SOLID ever since installing and I feel like maybe my rig is asking for too much from a single 3/4 upper.
I havent had an issue with the upper heim. I ha e probably 15k on it with mostly on road driving. Maybe you just got another dud. Its unlikely but im sure it happens
I havent had an issue with the upper heim. I ha e probably 15k on it with mostly on road driving. Maybe you just got another dud. Its unlikely but im sure it happens
I don't know those odds seem kind of high haha.
I ordered a 7/8 heim and weld bung, just going to go 7/8 all around. Hopefully it solves the problem haha.
Got an update on the upper heim. Had a friend saw the old weld bung off and burn in a new one for a 7/8 heim. Got the arm all installed with the the new 7/8 heim and all the clunking went away. The old 3/4 heim that came off had no visual play but was making all the noise. We shall see how long this 7/8 heim lasts now haha.
I also have another noise, which I've heard before, that sounds like a bolt is moving in a wallowed out hole; I hear a click/clunk on take off from a stop, and when I let off the throttle can hear it click/clunk back. I can feel it right below my feet. I've checked every thing over with a fine tooth comb and still can figure out where it's coming from. I've had a noise like this before on a previous set up and it was my track bar jam nut popping. The search continues...
I'm also prepping the jeep for its first 9hr drive since being rebuilt. I've decided to cut a lot of the weight off for the trip; no spare, no hi-lift, etc. Just packing a few recovery pieces and my travel tools, and all clothes and dog gear of course. I will be wheeling when I get to ME, but it won't be anything where I'll need a spare, and my brother has a hi-lift so we'll still have one between the two of us.
So I haven't updated this in a couple weeks. Made it to ME OK, averaged about 15mpg, and I have no doubt it would be better if I had the 35's my axles are geared to.
The last month I've just been collecting pieces here and there and starting to do small things for my buggy build. Tools, specific things for the gear setting, shop tools to help me in general.
14 bolt all cleaned out ready for me to teach myself to set gears:
While in ME went up North to a family cabin, did a little wheeling, some poser shots:
After saying to myself I would never jump this jeep, and specifically building it to not be able to handle jumps like that, I did it anyway. I came across a mound in a gravel pit that just couldn't be ignored.
So after specifically not putting a truss on because I knew (apparently thought) I would never need it, well I needed it. The first jump was smooth all the way through, the second, pictured above, well left for a landing that would leave my jeep smiling.
It looks worse than it really was. I can honestly say that it was the smoothest thing ever, between the progressive bumps, the shocks, no contact anywhere, just everything about how I built it, was awesome. I would do it again. If the only thing that got damaged was the 30 because I didn't truss it(and even that's not a guarentee), than I say my build was a success. This is the first and last time it'll be jumped, so I'm sure it can handle whatever else I throw at it haha.
Damage:
The bend is ever so slight, and I checked ball joints on the trail, I'll check them more thoroughly back in NY to make sure, but when you stand in front of it and look at the tube in relation to the tie rod, you can see it on the pass side.
BUT, driving 70mph from camp back to my parents it drove no different, smooth. It did start leaking gear oil once I got there, but the tube's bent, I guess that's expected.
Time for a new 30 haha, with a truss.
Last time I do it to this jeep, buggy though, different story.
Been having good luck lately. Check out what I picked up for $520:
That's a late 80's d60 and matching rear sterling 10.25.
He wouldn't sell me just the front since I already have the 14b I'll be using, so I got both for $520, and by the time I sell the rear I'll have a d60 for a couple hundred dollars haha. Now I have to figure out how to transport them in my XJ 9hrs/550mi back to WNY..
That's a late 80's d60 and matching rear sterling 10.25.
He wouldn't sell me just the front since I already have the 14b I'll be using, so I got both for $520, and by the time I sell the rear I'll have a d60 for a couple hundred dollars haha. Now I have to figure out how to transport them in my XJ 9hrs/550mi back to WNY..
How much? I can get them local for $80, I'm on the app right now so I can't see where you're located.
I'm right on west seneca, we talked before your in Lancaster that's why I offered lol. I need the suspension from the Jeep it's under and the d30 hp just needs new stabilizer and track bar brackets welded on but it's straight with 3.07s. I have a lp d30 from a 2000 with 3.55s I don't need either you can also come take. If you want one of them come pull it and take it home
03-03-2016, 08:58 PM
