Welding thread!!!!
#2161
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Oh wow! Congrats on the good-for-nothing discovery! What does he expect to be able to weld with that? Can't even hardly tac two pieces together!
If you watch some of his other vids hes actually a pretty smart fella. Just the way he goes about things is hilarious.
I did know about not welding zinc, but I never even would have thought to use brake fluid to clean something before welding it... literally would never have had the inclination to even try it - because like you said, it sticks around.
I've heard from several how-to's and welders that it's okay to use the non-chlorinated to clean or prep for welding, most say to just use alcohol... I guess acetone is okay too?
If you watch some of his other vids hes actually a pretty smart fella. Just the way he goes about things is hilarious.
I did know about not welding zinc, but I never even would have thought to use brake fluid to clean something before welding it... literally would never have had the inclination to even try it - because like you said, it sticks around.
I've heard from several how-to's and welders that it's okay to use the non-chlorinated to clean or prep for welding, most say to just use alcohol... I guess acetone is okay too?
Acetone is by far the best, rubbing alcohol wont touch a lot of grime that acetone will. For mig welding, the majority of the time ill flap/wire wheel down to bare metal and call it a day. Unless youre working in an area where oil residue is a concern, then the acetone comes in handy. Otherwise just weld away.
#2162
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh wow! Congrats on the good-for-nothing discovery! What does he expect to be able to weld with that? Can't even hardly tac two pieces together!
I did know about not welding zinc, but I never even would have thought to use brake fluid to clean something before welding it... literally would never have had the inclination to even try it - because like you said, it sticks around.
I've heard from several how-to's and welders that it's okay to use the non-chlorinated to clean or prep for welding, most say to just use alcohol... I guess acetone is okay too?
I did know about not welding zinc, but I never even would have thought to use brake fluid to clean something before welding it... literally would never have had the inclination to even try it - because like you said, it sticks around.
I've heard from several how-to's and welders that it's okay to use the non-chlorinated to clean or prep for welding, most say to just use alcohol... I guess acetone is okay too?
It is Chlorinated Brake Cleaner that is the issue. Not brake fluid. I'm sure it was a typo, just want to clarify for the sake of any newbs out there. Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner is fine as far as I know. I usually use acetone.
#2164
No, I don't lick fish.
Anyone know anything about the jegs brand welders?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
#2165
::CF Administrator::
Anyone know anything about the jegs brand welders?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
Attachment 299445
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
Attachment 299445
#2166
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Anyone know anything about the jegs brand welders?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
Attachment 299445
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...welder&Tab=SKU
Attachment 299445
#2167
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Join Date: May 2012
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Okay, welders, how about a spot of advice? (yuk yuk)
Spot welding our Jeeps, specifically, the frame to body connection (yes, I know it's not really a frame...) under the rear cargo area. What size wire? How long to hold? I"d like to get a ballpark idea before I start experimenting.
Also, how do I weld up 3/8" holes where spot welds were drilled out? A copper backing plate and then just weld it closed?
Spot welding our Jeeps, specifically, the frame to body connection (yes, I know it's not really a frame...) under the rear cargo area. What size wire? How long to hold? I"d like to get a ballpark idea before I start experimenting.
Also, how do I weld up 3/8" holes where spot welds were drilled out? A copper backing plate and then just weld it closed?
#2168
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Okay, welders, how about a spot of advice? (yuk yuk)
Spot welding our Jeeps, specifically, the frame to body connection (yes, I know it's not really a frame...) under the rear cargo area. What size wire? How long to hold? I"d like to get a ballpark idea before I start experimenting.
Also, how do I weld up 3/8" holes where spot welds were drilled out? A copper backing plate and then just weld it closed?
Spot welding our Jeeps, specifically, the frame to body connection (yes, I know it's not really a frame...) under the rear cargo area. What size wire? How long to hold? I"d like to get a ballpark idea before I start experimenting.
Also, how do I weld up 3/8" holes where spot welds were drilled out? A copper backing plate and then just weld it closed?
Go to tractor supply, home depot, metal supply store, yadda yadda and get some thin sheet metal to practice on, shouldn't be too expensive to get a few small pieces.
As far as filling holes, 3/8 is relatively large when trying to fill sheet metal. A backer or welding spoon will surely help. Stacking tacks and building material until you've closed up the hole, may have to let cool and clean as you go.
Getting the sheet metal very very clean will also help. Get yourself some seam sealer after you've finished and dressed all the spot welds.
#2169
CF Veteran
.023 is best for auto body, but it can also be done with .030, just have to manage the heat and prevent burn through. Hopefully you're not using flux core either.
Go to tractor supply, home depot, metal supply store, yadda yadda and get some thin sheet metal to practice on, shouldn't be too expensive to get a few small pieces.
As far as filling holes, 3/8 is relatively large when trying to fill sheet metal. A backer or welding spoon will surely help. Stacking tacks and building material until you've closed up the hole, may have to let cool and clean as you go.
Getting the sheet metal very very clean will also help. Get yourself some seam sealer after you've finished and dressed all the spot welds.
Go to tractor supply, home depot, metal supply store, yadda yadda and get some thin sheet metal to practice on, shouldn't be too expensive to get a few small pieces.
As far as filling holes, 3/8 is relatively large when trying to fill sheet metal. A backer or welding spoon will surely help. Stacking tacks and building material until you've closed up the hole, may have to let cool and clean as you go.
Getting the sheet metal very very clean will also help. Get yourself some seam sealer after you've finished and dressed all the spot welds.
#2170
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
is .30" good to weld unibody stiffeners, door hinge stiffeners with a 135 amp welder or should I break out the 180 amp one?
#2171
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, Lack! I'm thinking of using some thin sheet metal to back the holes. Won't hurt anything on the project.
#2172
CF Veteran
030 whether it's solid or flux core is only good on the top end of the 110v machine, but would run well on the 220v better.
i generally use 023 on my 110v lincoln 140c cause i can use it in most applications throughout the range of the machine.
i use 030 mostly on my big 220v thermal arc fabricator only because i don't weld too thick of metal mostly.
i generally use 023 on my 110v lincoln 140c cause i can use it in most applications throughout the range of the machine.
i use 030 mostly on my big 220v thermal arc fabricator only because i don't weld too thick of metal mostly.
#2173
No, I don't lick fish.
Yeah I've been scouting them out. My biggest problem is not being quick enough on the draw when I come across a deal.