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Garage talk app seems to let me view Cherokee forum. Thanks guys.
Was finally 80° here in Michigan so I pulled out the bike rack and headed to a local park to get some PT in. Ended up biking about 20 miles.
Gonna weld a nut to the bottom the the receiver hitch and add a bolt to put tension on whatever is in the tube. Bike rack was a little wiggly but worked great for the time.
Finally removed my headliner and soundbar. Can anyone here tell me what was the purpose of the burned out portion of the rear dome light pictured here? It turned on fine whenever doors were opened but not rear hatch. Could that have been the issue?
What happened here?
Mine did that. That's the "tailgater" switch. It lets you disable the courtesy lights when the lift gate is open. That way you can leave the gate open without killing the battery. The problem is that the current draw of all the bulbs (4 in the case of mine, more if you have the overhead console) is more than that little switch is really designed for, and in time it melts and quits working.
When mine first melted, I had a forked spade connector shoved inside to act as a jumper to bypass it. Worked that way for years. I ultimately replaced the light with a new one from eBay, than replaced the interior lights with LEDs to lower the current draw.
Got the transfercase all sealed, clocked, filled and back in. Got the cav fab 3 link cross member wrestled it, got a new fuel line in, made some money to get more parts for the jeep, and possibly going back out and putting in the rear driveshaft, but probably calling it a day.
My years long saga to get my power locks working has ended on victory as of 3 AM last night.
Pulled the door panels out, ripped the passenger side wiring harness completely out after several failed repairs, and replaced it with a minty fresh one from the JY.
Also got my lock rods installed because the PO fubar'd them and they would jam shut so I removed them. So I now have manual AND power locks. And best part is they haven't worked for 10 years so they seem to be in great shape.
Unfortunately, the pass window switch was lost in the struggle. Troubleshot it for about 2 hours and declared it a loss. The harness has continuity on all pins, checked before and after install, but the window switch light does not illuminate, nor will it operate the window. The drivers side master works just fine, and the lock switch on the passenger side works, just the window switch, and no power mirrors still.
I need to do the drivers side but all of that took me like 6-7 hrs all said and done, so not pulling the panel off until I care enough to try and fix the remaining issues.
Oh well, F-ing worth it. Years of running around and around to lock and unlock doors manually are over! Sweet victory...
Stretched it out while tweaking the end links (read fix). Temporarely put the stock flares back on just to see what it looked like. Much better. Paint matched napier flares and a fender trim is next though. And no lift shackle relocation brackets and aftermarket shackles. The front suspension has so much more travel than the rear.
did power steering fluid according to instructions found here!! on 2 vehicles. used my batt acid tester to suck them mt.got apx pint from jeep, dirty, glad i did it. only because i found a full,fresh can of juice in the barn!
im sure it will steer better...!!
04-15-2017, 07:38 PM
