Project: Golden Badger
#16
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
#17
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 248
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
#18
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Update on the Badger...
Did the hubs, ujoints, brakes... entire front end is basically new now. Near future plans include aftermarket LCAs, discos, longer brake lines.
Nice fat trans cooler to help out on the trails. On that note, fixed a weird trans issue it had when on the Hwy... By replacing the brake light switch, lol.
Set up my roof rack.
And hated it, lol. So stripped it and the oe crossbars off the roof. Rear swing out in my future.
Other random stuff done;
Blower resistor
Oil change, trans flush/fill
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil
Idler pulley
Coolant flush, new thermostat.
Very soon;
ProComp 3" leaf springs
Extended brake lines
Drop pitman arm
Paint 1/4 armor
Discos
Soonish;
4.56 gears
Sliders
Rear spare mount/bumper
Header/exhaust
4-hole injectors
Custom rear cargo compartments
Eventually;
Winch
8.8" rear
Long arm conversion
Overhead console
Sound system upgrade
"And then she'll be done!"
Lol, yeah. Right.
Did the hubs, ujoints, brakes... entire front end is basically new now. Near future plans include aftermarket LCAs, discos, longer brake lines.
Nice fat trans cooler to help out on the trails. On that note, fixed a weird trans issue it had when on the Hwy... By replacing the brake light switch, lol.
Set up my roof rack.
And hated it, lol. So stripped it and the oe crossbars off the roof. Rear swing out in my future.
Other random stuff done;
Blower resistor
Oil change, trans flush/fill
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil
Idler pulley
Coolant flush, new thermostat.
Very soon;
ProComp 3" leaf springs
Extended brake lines
Drop pitman arm
Paint 1/4 armor
Discos
Soonish;
4.56 gears
Sliders
Rear spare mount/bumper
Header/exhaust
4-hole injectors
Custom rear cargo compartments
Eventually;
Winch
8.8" rear
Long arm conversion
Overhead console
Sound system upgrade
"And then she'll be done!"
Lol, yeah. Right.
#21
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Wow, haven't updated this in awhile, lol. Ok, decided to scale her back a bit for better road manners and a cleaner look.
Ditched the '33s for 31X10.5s, both for better hwy driving, availability, and a 31" spare will actually just BARELY fit in the factory mount in the hatch. After careful trimming and artistic use of industrial panel-bond, lol, I was able to cover the hacked out fenderwells with factory flares.
The roof rack is back, lol. I prefer the look slick with no rack or bars, but was tired of that bigass jack hogging the floorspace in my cargo area. Spare is still in the hatch, and when I finally get motivated to build a swing-out for the back, the jack, spare, and jerrycan will have a home.
Original muffler was toast, so replaced it and swapped in a hi-flow cat.
I know there's more, but I'm on my first coffee, and that's all I can think of right now, lol.
Ditched the '33s for 31X10.5s, both for better hwy driving, availability, and a 31" spare will actually just BARELY fit in the factory mount in the hatch. After careful trimming and artistic use of industrial panel-bond, lol, I was able to cover the hacked out fenderwells with factory flares.
The roof rack is back, lol. I prefer the look slick with no rack or bars, but was tired of that bigass jack hogging the floorspace in my cargo area. Spare is still in the hatch, and when I finally get motivated to build a swing-out for the back, the jack, spare, and jerrycan will have a home.
Original muffler was toast, so replaced it and swapped in a hi-flow cat.
I know there's more, but I'm on my first coffee, and that's all I can think of right now, lol.
#22
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Ok update time again. Let's see... RC LCAs courtesy of SatiricalHen.
The Frankensteined ***-end has finally been dealt with, along with an overall refreshing of the suspension as a whole.
The D35 is gone! Now rolling properly on a 29 spline 8.25, under Procomp 3.5" leaf springs.
Next was Procomp ES3000 shocks at all four corners, RE stabilizer, and homemade discos. Lol, laugh, they work and cost me exactly zero dollars.
Of course, some repairs and upkeep in the mix too. Gone through most of the cooling system, new PS pump, timing chain... Guess that's bout it, lol, mostly just been enjoying her.
The Frankensteined ***-end has finally been dealt with, along with an overall refreshing of the suspension as a whole.
The D35 is gone! Now rolling properly on a 29 spline 8.25, under Procomp 3.5" leaf springs.
Next was Procomp ES3000 shocks at all four corners, RE stabilizer, and homemade discos. Lol, laugh, they work and cost me exactly zero dollars.
Of course, some repairs and upkeep in the mix too. Gone through most of the cooling system, new PS pump, timing chain... Guess that's bout it, lol, mostly just been enjoying her.
#23
Wow, haven't updated this in awhile, lol. Ok, decided to scale her back a bit for better road manners and a cleaner look.
Ditched the '33s for 31X10.5s, both for better hwy driving, availability, and a 31" spare will actually just BARELY fit in the factory mount in the hatch. After careful trimming and artistic use of industrial panel-bond, lol, I was able to cover the hacked out fenderwells with factory flares.
The roof rack is back, lol. I prefer the look slick with no rack or bars, but was tired of that bigass jack hogging the floorspace in my cargo area. Spare is still in the hatch, and when I finally get motivated to build a swing-out for the back, the jack, spare, and jerrycan will have a home.
Original muffler was toast, so replaced it and swapped in a hi-flow cat.
I know there's more, but I'm on my first coffee, and that's all I can think of right now, lol.
Ditched the '33s for 31X10.5s, both for better hwy driving, availability, and a 31" spare will actually just BARELY fit in the factory mount in the hatch. After careful trimming and artistic use of industrial panel-bond, lol, I was able to cover the hacked out fenderwells with factory flares.
The roof rack is back, lol. I prefer the look slick with no rack or bars, but was tired of that bigass jack hogging the floorspace in my cargo area. Spare is still in the hatch, and when I finally get motivated to build a swing-out for the back, the jack, spare, and jerrycan will have a home.
Original muffler was toast, so replaced it and swapped in a hi-flow cat.
I know there's more, but I'm on my first coffee, and that's all I can think of right now, lol.
Twisted, I like how it looks w/ the 31's and, yes, there are some other practical benefits to the size as well. I have considered moving up to 33's numerous times but in the end always changed my mind because I really don't like the trade-offs. You know how these things go.
Also, living up north now I see very few XJ's w/ clean, uncorroded undercarriages like yours (and mine). I can't remember where I was at the time but a guy was looking under mine one day and his jaw hit the ground when he saw the condition of it since it's all still the factory white paint. Told him it has never seen salt or a northern winter. It's nice when all the fasteners, etc., come out w/ minimal effort. Lol!
The Badger is really looking good. Keep up the great work!
#24
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Thanks man, I've put in a good bit of work since I got her, and she's getting closer and closer to being "done"(lol, yeah right). Really happy with how it's coming along.
Yeah, I paid what I consider a considerable chunk o change for her initially. But having had a rusty XJ before, I couldn't pass on the chance to have one that was this clean and solid. Same here, the factory gold is still everywhere underneath.
Right now, not too much planned for the foreseeable future.
Either a rear swing out, or an interior mount for the jack. Haven't decided yet, but I hate the roof rack.
Regear with 4.10s.
New tires, same size but the KO2s.
Then just a bunch of little stuff. Chase down all the little squeaks n rattles, better speakers, storage for all the loose **** in the hatch, few more upgrades to the front suspension.
After that... we'll see, lol.
Yeah, I paid what I consider a considerable chunk o change for her initially. But having had a rusty XJ before, I couldn't pass on the chance to have one that was this clean and solid. Same here, the factory gold is still everywhere underneath.
Right now, not too much planned for the foreseeable future.
Either a rear swing out, or an interior mount for the jack. Haven't decided yet, but I hate the roof rack.
Regear with 4.10s.
New tires, same size but the KO2s.
Then just a bunch of little stuff. Chase down all the little squeaks n rattles, better speakers, storage for all the loose **** in the hatch, few more upgrades to the front suspension.
After that... we'll see, lol.
#28
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
DIY hi-lift mount
How-to DIY interior hi-lift mount
If you've followed, I'm on my second roof rack, and hated them both. Debated a rear swing-out, but adding a step to opening my hatch doesn't appeal either. Switching down to 31s allow me to mount my spare in the hatch, but the jack needed somewhere to be, other than the floor of my cargo area. So here we go...Start by pulling the top half of the back seat. Easy enough, just remove the two 15mm bolts at the pivot points.
The upholstery unzips, remove the screws holding the latch trim plates in the top corners. A long plastic trim simply pulls off the bottom of the metal seat frame. Then you can wiggle the frame out of the seat.
Center your jack(up to 48") so the ends sit just above the wheel wells.
You'll be using hood-pins to mount the jack, but you don't want them supporting the weight of the jack as the seat frame is made of light sheetmetal.
You can use small "L" brackets available at any hardware store. I used early Mustang window stops because well, I work in a Mustang shop and have piles of these things. Four braces and the pins will spread the weight of the jack nicely.
Mark and drill your holes for the braces and hoodpins($15 at Oreilly).
Where I put my pins was over a brace, be sure to flip it over and open those holes to match.
Bolt your braces in. Adjust your pins for a snug fit(take into account the thickness of the carpet!). I put a little blue Loctite on the threads for good measure.
To avoid torturing back seat passengers, flip it over and trim the hoodpin ends.
Fit the frame back into the seat.
Pull the upholstery tight, and cut slits for the new hardware.
Snap the plastic trim strip back on, zip her up...
And you're done!
Reinstall the seat, hang the jack and snap your pin clips over the washers. Good to go!
A 31" spare will require pulling the handle off and hanging below the jack as pictured. If your spare is between OE and 29" this won't be an issue, and you can mount your jack higher if you prefer.
#30
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 35
From: Pasquotank, NC
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I like it. Very clean.
I'm concerned about the hardware through the back seat, concerned about it being a pressure point in the event of an accident. I think a board the height of the fasteners w/ holes cut out in it for the fasteners would prevent any issues. Basically skin the sheet metal panel and cut the seat foam thinner to accommodate.
I'm concerned about the hardware through the back seat, concerned about it being a pressure point in the event of an accident. I think a board the height of the fasteners w/ holes cut out in it for the fasteners would prevent any issues. Basically skin the sheet metal panel and cut the seat foam thinner to accommodate.