Welp, here 'goes... Project slow n' steady...
#706
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Friend came through... just need the bracket for the steering stabilizer. I might just make one.
#707
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
New Duralast Gold battery. Last one survived 3.5 years. Not a very impressive lifespan, but the capacity, CCAs, and performance was impressive enough that I decided to go with another one. PLUS the battery was prorated for 2 years after the warranty expired, so I got about 50 bucks towards the purchase of a new one. Also had 20 bucks in AZ rewards points so I walked out of the store for $84 total.
#708
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Crossover Steering Conversion kits.... what I ACTUALLY have.
http://www.ruggedridge.com/bracket-s...-18040-50.html
Seems like I should be able to find a better quality one for a better price or at least make my own.... so long as I can find the u-bolts, I think I'll just do the DIY route.
Edit: Uhhh... yeah... I think I'll DIY...
https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...U-Bolts%22%7C~
For sure.
2nd Edit: This is NOT a Rugged Ridge kit... it's Rusty's. I'm glad though... seems like the Rusty's setup is a little more beefy and uses standard TREs that you can find at any parts store. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-st...onversion.html
Now I'm even more excited.
Stabilizer bracket kit for the Rusty's steering http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-st...ing-mount.html
Figured I'd post all that for anyone looking at crossover steering conversion kits.
Last edited by Basslicks; 08-14-2017 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Madness.
#709
CF Veteran
New Duralast Gold battery. Last one survived 3.5 years. Not a very impressive lifespan, but the capacity, CCAs, and performance was impressive enough that I decided to go with another one. PLUS the battery was prorated for 2 years after the warranty expired, so I got about 50 bucks towards the purchase of a new one. Also had 20 bucks in AZ rewards points so I walked out of the store for $84 total.
#710
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
No, they're traditional lead acid, just higher capacity and better CCAs. The AGM batteries are the Platinum series
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...19463_929734_0
If I had thought about it, I probably would have just bought an AGM and paid the difference. Oh well, next time.
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...19463_929734_0
If I had thought about it, I probably would have just bought an AGM and paid the difference. Oh well, next time.
#712
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Miami, fl
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Look into the ruffstuff the cure...should help if you have any slop after installing new ends...
Batman33165 had that same set up when the rod ends had slop, it was a SCARY drive for sure...easily a 1/4 turn before any movement
Batman33165 had that same set up when the rod ends had slop, it was a SCARY drive for sure...easily a 1/4 turn before any movement
#713
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
The good part is, Rusty's supplies you with the parts store tie rod ends parts numbers. So if you want MOOG TREs or NAPA TREs or whatever, you can easily source your own instead of using the Rusty's.
In my case, if the Rusty's has too much slop, I'll just put my current steering back on until I get better TREs.
#714
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
So my passenger side brake caliper has been dragging for quite a while. Jeep pulls to the right, yada yada yada. Been meaning to get around to checking to see how bad the groves were on the steering knuckle and finally got around to checking.
Well.....
Yeah they were grooved pretty bad.
Preheated the knuckles, welded some beads and ground them flush.
Don't pay attention to that sloppy bead on the right. I was testing it out to see if there was going to be any cracking or warping so I was tacking the entire time versus running a bead.
Good as new.
I also had some steal jackets for the tips of the pads where they make contact on the knuckle. Works MUCH better. Jeep still pulls to the right but it's not NEARLY as bad. The remaining "pull" I'm getting is now probably more because of needing CA bushings.
Well.....
Yeah they were grooved pretty bad.
Preheated the knuckles, welded some beads and ground them flush.
Don't pay attention to that sloppy bead on the right. I was testing it out to see if there was going to be any cracking or warping so I was tacking the entire time versus running a bead.
Good as new.
I also had some steal jackets for the tips of the pads where they make contact on the knuckle. Works MUCH better. Jeep still pulls to the right but it's not NEARLY as bad. The remaining "pull" I'm getting is now probably more because of needing CA bushings.
Last edited by Basslicks; 08-18-2017 at 07:50 PM.
#715
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Almost forgot - went out to the gun range in the forest and decided to take advantage of some free AC on the way out. I was glad I did... weather was decent and it was a really nice ride.
#716
CF Veteran
Not nearly as bad as my 'new' ZJ but that'll Definitely cause some problems! Lol. Did I ever post pics of those? Also never thought to preheat the knuckles but didn't notice any cracking or anything.
#717
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Can't remember if you did or not. Didn't know yours were liked that too, though I'm not surprised. Seems like a very common problem with these types of front ends.
I definitely wanted to make sure I preheated the knuckles due to the welder I have. It's flux-core for one thing, plus there's only 2 temperature settings (min and max) so I didn't want to take the chance of too much heat at one time.
I definitely wanted to make sure I preheated the knuckles due to the welder I have. It's flux-core for one thing, plus there's only 2 temperature settings (min and max) so I didn't want to take the chance of too much heat at one time.
#718
CF Veteran
Can't remember if you did or not. Didn't know yours were liked that too, though I'm not surprised. Seems like a very common problem with these types of front ends.
I definitely wanted to make sure I preheated the knuckles due to the welder I have. It's flux-core for one thing, plus there's only 2 temperature settings (min and max) so I didn't want to take the chance of too much heat at one time.
I definitely wanted to make sure I preheated the knuckles due to the welder I have. It's flux-core for one thing, plus there's only 2 temperature settings (min and max) so I didn't want to take the chance of too much heat at one time.
Here's where I posted a pic of one of the rears: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/96-grand-cherokee-212947/index11/#post3389846
The rest where worse, really bad...lol
#719
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Yeah I've got a flux core Lincoln but 4 heat settings.
Here's where I posted a pic of one of the rears: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/96...1/#post3389846
The rest where worse, really bad...lol
Here's where I posted a pic of one of the rears: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/96...1/#post3389846
The rest where worse, really bad...lol
Yeah that's definitely a little worse than mine.
#720
No, I don't lick fish.
Thread Starter
Finally got around to installing and wiring up the dash clock I got a couple years back. Works great except the middle bar on the number all the way to the right, doesn't work. 0 and 8 are indistinguishable haha
While I had the dash apart I decided to paint my gauge bezel white to match the exterior paint. Turned out good and looks really cool at night!
While I had the dash apart I decided to paint my gauge bezel white to match the exterior paint. Turned out good and looks really cool at night!